SU'dCrazy280 Posted October 5, 2005 Share Posted October 5, 2005 Hey, im a new member here, I love Z's and I have a 76 280Z. I read the rules and regulations page, and I searched for over an hour and found a few answers on the SU's into the 280, but still need more. I have an L28 block w/ 89mm flat top pistons, a delta semi performance cam, small port and polish job. The engine was rebuilt a year ago. And my fuel injection is really screwy, and I am tired of messing with it. I want quick throttle response, and a simple running car! I am thinking of buying a mechanical fuel pump, and SU's with the E88 manifolds and linkage attached. I could easily set up the fuel return line and such. I saw in a post before that someone asked if you have to replace your distributor with a 280ZX one, why? Is it true? Can you use a thermostat housing from a 240Z or 510? Which sensors are still needed? Which vacuum lines are unneeded, obviously the distributor and brake booster, any others needed? What about the ugly charcoal canister? Are early 71-72 SU's easy to tune/rebuild? Will it increase hp? Sorry this was such a long post, but you guys writing back will determine if my car will be running soon or not. And I already took off my FI intake, so there is no going back. I talked to a guy at the SCCA races, and he told me to definitely go w/ SU's. If im wrong, I guess I'll have to change my username!! Thanks Jeff T. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silent Posted October 5, 2005 Share Posted October 5, 2005 get rid of all the vacuum lines, get a holley red fuel pump, put it in the stock location, a 240z thermo housing will work fine. the canister can go, only two vacuum lines that i use are for the brakes, and the heater controls. pics of my motor with a 3.1 and su's, in my 76 280z http://www.geocities.com/a3point1280z/engine my engine runs 200 times better with carbs, then with the crappy efi. AND better gas mileage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SU'dCrazy280 Posted October 5, 2005 Author Share Posted October 5, 2005 I love your engine, silent. Your picture is basically my goal someday. So you don't think I should use the mech. fuel pump, I'm not going for crazy horsepower, I just want a daily driver and a weekend SCCA vehicle that will run like a champ, cause my FI system was messed up, and i want a simple set up. I also am not to familiar w/ pressure regulators. Is there a fitting on the E88 for the heater line, and you didn't run a vacuum line to your distributor? I plan on using my stock one and I didn't think you could do that. Oh, and what kind of filters and filter assemblies are you running? I like, I like. Thanks for the advice. Thanks Jeff T. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNeedForZ Posted October 5, 2005 Share Posted October 5, 2005 Jeff, You don't "have to" switch to 280zx dizzy/ignition but it is better that way because it is electronic ignition and gives a hotter spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SU'dCrazy280 Posted October 5, 2005 Author Share Posted October 5, 2005 I might do a horse drawn conversion if the whole SU thing doesn't work out, I DO LIVE IN MONTANA!! JK. Oh, and as "Silent" said before that I could use a 240Z therm housing, could I use a 510 one off an L16? one of my buddies has a 510 w/ an engine he is parting out, and the housing has the same bolt pattern as mine, except it only has one sensor, which is the temp sensor I think, which I want, since mine has four!!! If any one else has any ideas, please put them forth, I need all the help I can get!! Thanks Jeff T. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silent Posted October 5, 2005 Share Posted October 5, 2005 id use the 24 housing due to the fact it cleans up that area of the engine bay a bit. you eally don't need a water pipe/intake heater. just let it warm up a lil bit longer, it might take a while to get started in the dead cold of winter. but it will start. mine fires when it's 20 below, and i don't have a water pipe in the intake runners. you can set the base timing at 6 degrees tdc, and get a total of around 36-38 degrees total advance {this is what i run in my 3.1} on pump gas at least. i havent run vacuum advance on my motor since day one. ddn't feel a need for it. you can run a mech pump if you don't care to run a regulator, but later 240's had a mech pump and a elec pump. it's easier for a pump to push then to pull. hence why i run a holley red and a holley regulator set to 3.5 psi. but again, this is me. im going to stupid hp this winter, so the red will support what i need. again, this is all up to you, im just posting my set up and how i would do it, just my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted October 5, 2005 Share Posted October 5, 2005 L16 and L24 thermo housings are probably the same or very close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SU'dCrazy280 Posted October 10, 2005 Author Share Posted October 10, 2005 Anything else I need to know? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy280 Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 First off, nice screen name! You'll also need to deal with matching the emissions to the older carb setup. SU's are super easy to tune and adjust and run great. I have a set of them for sale, with everything you need, if you're interested give me a PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silent Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 PS. you'll be fine on stock needles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy280 Posted October 16, 2005 Share Posted October 16, 2005 DAW's right, you should keep the emissions. I just wasn't sure if the 280 stuff would be compatible with the early 240 stuff, but I guess it is, so you should keep it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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