Brians 280Z Turbo finally finished.

[jkube]

I've finally finished my Uncle's 76 280z turbo install/restoration. Car turned out quite nicely and runs very strong without any sign of predetonation.

 

I mention this because I decided to try using a stock 240z distributor with a Crane cams XR3000 conversion kit to control spark and Megasquirt to control fuel.

I've disconnected the vacum advance of the distributor and only set timing at idle. I dont expect any advance or retard to ocurr at revs (correct me on this if you think I am wrong).

 

I havent read about anybody else doing this sort of setup, and thought you guys would be interested to hear how its working.

 

Other parts in the car:

 

Stock 280zxt motor and turbo

370CC injectors

Aluminum Fuel rail

Walbro 255 pump

Begi RRFPR

FMI, with piping from the intercooler routed so that it doesnt run along the rad.

3" exhaust

 

We're currently running about 10PSI boost, but have had it up to 21PSI ( 5th gear) without any carnage. (I'm glad it was Brian that was beihind the wheel).

 

Luckily I had the megasquirt set to dump way too much fuel at WOT for that run. I've since scaled back the fuel for 10PSI and the car runs strong up to about 6000 rpms.

 

Here is my site with some pictures, and I'll be uploadng some more in the next few days.

 

http://www.execulink.com/~jkube/Mainpage_lethalzs.html

[Pyro]

As far as the distributor goes I think you need to lock the mechanical advance and use the vacuum advance.

 

That is how I do it on my turbo conversion on a na efi system. The vacuum advance will return to "no advance" once boost kicks in so don't worry about that adding timing during boost. The vacuum advance really helps off boost torque and MPG.

 

If you don't lock out the mechanical advanvce in the distributor it will advance with revs. Check that with your timing light. I think you should lock out the advance and set the total timing to about 24 degrees. Or just set the timing with the engine at 4000 rpms to about 28 maximum, all the timing should be in by then. The initial timing would be about 8 degrees with 20 degrees in the distributor's mechanical advance. I can run 28 degrees timing at 10 psi without any problems. But if you run more than 10 psi, less timing will be required.

 

If you plan on running more boost than 10 psi, then lock out the mechanical advance and reduce timing as needed. 15 psi on a stock turbo engine can handle about 23 degrees. And 3 degrees initial would be way to little if you use the stock mechanical advance. So, it is much nicer just to luck out the mechanical advance and set the timing high at idle.

 

FYI, stock turbo timing is 24 degrees at idle.

 

good luck with your project.

[Synlubes]

Hey jkube,

 

What front air damn is on Brians Turbo ?

Where did it come from?

It apears to have more of a forward rake to it than others.

[jkube]

I bought the air dam used form a racer up here about 10 years ago, but I have seen it on the web at this location:

 

http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240z.html

 

Its an air dam meant for a 280z , and I think it had a sticker on it that said American racing.

[Clifton]

As Pyro said. You will need to stop the mechanical advance or you will for sure have knock. I wired up the weights on one along time ago. Worked fine. You couls also use an MSD universal boost retard. They are around $170. I run one on my truck. Works better than locking out the mech advance but isn't free like a foot of wire.