Alf Posted October 5, 2005 Share Posted October 5, 2005 This is for a small block chevy swap into the first gen 300zx only. The first thing you must do after you pull the nissan engine is cut out the old engine mounts. They are spot welded in so you will need a torch to heat them and a air chissel, be careful not to burn through the rubber dust covers on the rack and pinion. Next u can set your engine in the engine compartment with a cherry picker and start to get an idea where everything has to go. (chevy engines should have 4 degrees of setback) The engine rubber block mounts should sit about a half inch behind the crossmember in the center of the engine compartment. I purchased a roll of thin alluminum and bent it around the steel i was going to use for the mounts for mock up purposes. I stronly recomend this procedure because you can then take measurements and center the engine and mark where the mounts have to be welded. For my mounts i use 2 1/2 by 2 1/2 inch steel an 1/8 inch thick. You have to put an angle cut and box the top side of the mounts and the height should be somewhere between 9 and 10 inches tall on the tallest side. The overall height intially will be greater because you must cut one end of the tube up the corners about 3 inches and bend them up, then when you get it where you want it you can bend these tabs down and weld them in place(ill try to get some pictures of this sense it is pretty confusing and hard to explane.) The transmition mount is much simpler. If you have an original manual transmition(i dont know if automatics use the same crossmember) Z and you are going to use a manual GM transmition(muncie, saginaw, i dont kno much about the new six speeds or five speeds so i do not know if this will work), get your transmition mount secure and cut off the ridge then runs through the center of it, then get a peice of flat steel about 1/8 inch thick, cut to fit and weld in place. A custom mount is neccessary for this because a stock mount is too tall, my solution was to make two plates and cut about 5 or 6 rectangles of mud flap ruber and zip tie it together, then just drill 2 holes and thread them right into the transmition housing. You may be wondering if the crossmember will line up, it will because the car has three or four different holes to choose from, i moved mine up one hole towards the front of the car. The shifter handle is tricky, you have to cut the end that bolts to the shifter off, and then weld the rest of the stick to it at a 90 degree angle. the stick itself needs a 45 degree angle towards the back off the car and then another bend up. A custom shifter plate may also be neccesary to gain optimum shifter boot location. You will also need an electric fan.(the stock radiator is not up to the task of cooling even a mild v8 engine, i am still in the process of replacing it with something bigger and will post details later) There are sufficient holes on the radiator bracket for mounting. You need to fab some brackets. I removed my shroud off of my car but i suppose you could leave it on if you wanted, I also ran my wiring through one of the existing relays that i was no longer in use. You may be wondering what kind of distrubutor to use and if you can set the engine far back enough. I used an old chevy points distributor with a pertronix electronic conversion. You have to cut a portion of the metal out on the firwall where the two seems come together.(HEI does not fit without extensive modification) If you wish to have power steering you will need to salvage the nissan pump(GM pump would work but may require a regulator as not to blow the seals out of the nissan rack) and fabricate mounts which i did, and mount the resevour, with the pump on the driver side and you will also need a line made. I left the one stamped steal bracket on the pump and fastened that to the auxilery bolt hole on the sbc long style water pump at the very bottom and then fabbed two simple c brackets to the two bolt holes directly underneeth(early chevy engine mount bolt holes). Block huger headers look like they will fit in the engine compartment but i used a pair of early sixties chevy ram horn style manifiolds that exit in the center. Please let me know of any questions you may have, this can be a little confusing. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest HBZ81 Posted October 5, 2005 Share Posted October 5, 2005 im going to feel really stupid for asking this question, but which engines are considered small block for chevy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted October 5, 2005 Author Share Posted October 5, 2005 thats not a stupid question. engines included in the chevy small block family are: 262,265,283,302,327,350,383,and 400 not to be confused with the 402 big block which is totally different Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest HBZ81 Posted October 6, 2005 Share Posted October 6, 2005 i didnt think chevy had a 302, but a 305 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted October 6, 2005 Share Posted October 6, 2005 i didnt think chevy had a 302, but a 305 Both. The 302 was basically a high performance engine from the 1960's Chevy used in the Trans Am cars (I think I'm correct) that had a limit of 5 liters of engine size. The 305 (slug) came later. Alf missed that and the 307 (not much better) in his list. The 383 is a 400 crank in a 350 block bored .010 over (I think I'm correct). Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted October 6, 2005 Author Share Posted October 6, 2005 yes you are right i did miss the 305 and 307 whoops. The 302 was introduced in 67 in the brand new z/28. it consisted of a 4 inch bore(same as 350) and a 3 inch stroke(like a 283) It was intended for high performance use and consisted of mostly forged engine internals and a big solid cam. This engine also had the legendary "double hump" heads. The engine was used exclusively in trans am because of the 5 liter limit. GM even made a dual 4 barrel cross ram intake that the public could buy over the counter. 68 and 69 302 blocks have 4 bolt mains and thicker webbing but the 67 only had 2 bolt mains. the code for an original 302 is on the front of the block right under the passenger side head it should say DZ if its a 302. the 305 is simmilar in cubic inch but entirely different. It consists of a 350 crank(3.48 inch strake) and a bore of 3.75. The 302 was a screamer and made immense horsepower for its size but at a very high rpm. GM rated the 302 at 290 hp and 290 tourqe, but i have read that it was more like 375 hp. The 305 is a tourqe motor and makes its power low in the rpm range due to its long stroke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest defiance1986 Posted August 27, 2006 Share Posted August 27, 2006 HEy alf. when/ where are you going/ did you post those pictures of the swap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 87na Posted August 27, 2006 Share Posted August 27, 2006 block hugger headers will NOT fit, truck manifolds will not fit. the rams horns will fit, and the buick or pontaic manifolds that point straight down near the bellhousing will fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlmaniac Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 Both. The 302 was basically a high performance engine from the 1960's Chevy used in the Trans Am cars (I think I'm correct) that had a limit of 5 liters of engine size. The 305 (slug) came later. Alf missed that and the 307 (not much better) in his list. The 383 is a 400 crank in a 350 block bored .010 over (I think I'm correct). Davy the 383 is a 400 crank in a 350 block bored .030 over.also has to have custom pistons with a shorter compression height especially if going with a 6" rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COZY Z COLE Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 Go check his photo album.... http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=615 LARRY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted August 28, 2006 Author Share Posted August 28, 2006 Heys guys, It's been a while since I've visited the site. I have been super busy with work, family matters, and moving back to start the new year of college. First off, I have decided against producing my swap kit for various reasons. ( I'de also like to appologize to everyone that e-mailed me and did not receive a responce, I kepted putting it off untill my computer finally erased them all, which is no excuse.) I am still willing to give out any information about the swap, so ask on, and I will do my best to answer your questions in a timely manner. As for the pictures, just check out my album, which COZY Z COLE has so nicely provided the link for. I have more pictures that I could e-mail if needed. Thanks for your interest, and have a good day. ALF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaparral2f Posted August 29, 2006 Share Posted August 29, 2006 block hugger headers will NOT fit, truck manifolds will not fit. the rams horns will fit, and the buick or pontaic manifolds that point straight down near the bellhousing will fit. Sorry to pop yer bubble, but I have blockhuggers on my small block though they are a little tight arond the steering rack. Alf, I think I'm fiinally going to do the front suspension. I've got a line on a dead XJ jag for a donor. and while I'm at it I'm putting in a Griffin radiator. I intend to have it standing straight up so I can pull it without removing the front facia. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest boostedzx3 Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 What did you do for a rear end, and drive shaft? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted November 9, 2006 Author Share Posted November 9, 2006 The rear is the stock r200. I had a custom shaft made, it's basically a chevy driveshaft with a Neapco adapter for the rear flange. It cost me about $210, nothing fancy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wingman Posted November 16, 2006 Share Posted November 16, 2006 I'll soon be undertaking this project as well, but my plans are a little different. Hopefully somebody here can help me out. I plan on using a toyota R154 transmission, since i have one lying around. I've been told that Advance Adapters' AX-15 to GM bellhousing adapter will work with the R154. My only question concerning this is with the clutch setup. The smallest GM pressure plate/flywheel size I can find is 10.5", but the only clutch discs I can find splined for the R154 are 9.5". Will I need to go into the custom realm here or is there an easy solution that you guys know of? regarding the neapco adapter, do you have a product number? Or was it custom made? Also, since you seem to have the dimensions down already, is it possible to have you fabricate me a set of engine mounts? Do you have dimensions available for the power steering brackets as well? I'm trying to at least get all the needed dimensions for fabrication of the conversion parts before I try and undertake the project. Is there any sort of partial kit, dimensions, or drawings to adapt these things? lastly, any concern of the oil pan hitting the subframe on higher capacity pans? What oil pan are you using currently and how much play room do you have between it and the subframe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest IceDrgn Posted November 16, 2006 Share Posted November 16, 2006 When you drop in a 350... you guys haven't had to do anything like... stiffen up the frame or anything??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wingman Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 another question....would these engine mounts be compatable with the Z31? I know they are designed to retrofit a small block into a VG30 powered hardbody or pathfinder...but not sure about the Z http://www.4x4parts.com/public_html/shop/index.php3?page=shop/flypage&product_id=427&category_id=6d671ddc4a20931bd740484254c1de5c&ps_session=4630a4c26e92c47f65a34ebd62a48b0d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialk Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 1) Why use the Toyota xmission (besides cost)? 2) If Advance Adapters sells an adapter to mate to an SBC, then they surely must know where to get a flywheel/clutch kit that will work 3) The engine mounts posted look like they mount to the frame. I'm guessing you'll do a lot of fab to get it to work. Looks at Alf's pictures and read his description. That's a very good way to do the mounts. One suggestion I have been given is to build your mount mock-ups out of plexiglass. Visibility, cost and workability are three very good reasons why (Thanks GrumpyVette!). One other suggestion I would make (based upon nothing besides thought) would be to create a system that attaches to the front of the engine and mounts to the frame. That's how my old (62) chevy pickup did it and it works pretty well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wingman Posted November 18, 2006 Share Posted November 18, 2006 I plan on using the toyota tranny because I have a perfectly good one sitting around...no real reason besides that and the cost factor. The R154 is perfectly capable of handling my goals. the problem is that the AX15 and R154 have the same bellhousing bolt pattern, but different input shaft features. The AX15 is a 10 spline x 1 1/8" and the R154 is a 21 spline x 29mm. Would it be possible to use a 1 1/8" 21 spline center on the R154...would it be safe to hit it very carefully with a file to remove the .016 needed to fit it? I will probably just go the route alf did on the engine mounts...it's cheaper and probably eaisier to boot. I was just throwing those out there in case it was a direct swap with no fabrication involved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bino_5150 Posted March 18, 2007 Share Posted March 18, 2007 block hugger headers will NOT fit, truck manifolds will not fit. the rams horns will fit, and the buick or pontaic manifolds that point straight down near the bellhousing will fit. I hate to burst your bubble also, but Buick headers will not fit under the hood... or on any other car, for that matter. Buick headers will not bolt up to the chevy motor. You see, even though the buick and chevy exhaust ports are in the same location(buick ports are WAY larger, by the way...), the buick heads sit at a different angle. They would stick straight out. That, and they do not bolt up the same. so no, they are not interchangable. Sorry to bump an old thread, but I figured maybe someone would like to know. Here is a thread that will explain it a bit more in-depth, pics and all: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=113425 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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