Guest ON3GO Posted October 8, 2005 Share Posted October 8, 2005 Making my own body/engine harness today... i hate it! pretty much just said F it after i spent like 6 hours trying to trim away what i didnt need and just cut everything out and im starting from scratch. all new body harness with my own wiring diagram that ill make. the Microtech takes care of the engine harness but i still have to connect the MSD ignition to it and then wire up the ignition relay and etc to everything else. PICS TOMORROW!!! some cool things im doing: Nissan S12 200sx fuse box. BMW Postive post in engine bay. Honda small battery mounted under the dash. ALL wireing will be nicely re-done and hidden under the dash, have a access panel if work is needed to be done. Relays are all together on a nice bracket and so is the Autometer EGT wiring block. battery kill switch. saved alot of weight with all that damn unused wiring. btw my new headlight blubs rule, ill take some pics of that too. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260ZRED Posted October 15, 2005 Share Posted October 15, 2005 I feel the pain man. Been trying to get my blinker's and other electrical $%&* to work. Fixed horn, fixed emergency flasheres, still can't get the blinkers and wiper motor to work. Going to make switches for them for now. Not the best way to do I know but it'll do. So why are using a small Honda battery under the dash?? What are you powering with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted October 15, 2005 Share Posted October 15, 2005 the honda battery is gonna be the cars only battery. its pretty awesome. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73hls30 Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 fab a battery box and install it behind the passenger seat. relatively easy cut and hack hides the battery. i used the shortest battery i could find since the taller honda batterys don't have a high current rating. if you have the r230 diff, the half shafts are pretty close to the battery box; r200 had plenty of room. when your rewire the engine compartment hide the wires under the fenders versus running along the frame, kind of a show car deal since your rewiring any way. that is something i regretted not doing. running the wires in the bottom radiator support versus across the front looks a little cleaner too.... i can't figure a cleaner way to run the fi though. Does anyone know where to get the bare male and female blade connectors that will fit in the factory plastic connectors??? a ton of weatherpack connections seems overkill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VinhZXT Posted October 21, 2005 Share Posted October 21, 2005 Rewiring sometimes is a lot easier if your car electrical system is simple. I am going thru the whole wiring system for my LS1 swap right now. Cutting out unused stuffs and have to make sure the car will start up. Add to the complexity that I am using the Vette's stock instrument cluster so I have to watch out what I cut. The bottome line is you still need to know how something works in order to rewire it. If you already know how it works then why rewire it? That's what you have to ask yourself.. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wal280z Posted October 22, 2005 Share Posted October 22, 2005 Does anyone know where to get the bare male and female blade connectors that will fit in the factory plastic connectors??? a ton of weatherpack connections seems overkill. Sure do... One source (online only) would be http://store.yahoo.com/eagleday/index.html At the top left, click on "Product Menu", next screen bottom right click on "Electrical Parts and Tools", next screen click on "Blade Connectors". Note: The 8mm is for the FI fusible link, the 6.3mm is for the rest of the car. Remember the regular crimp tool won't do the oem style crimp. Eagleday does sell the tool, but I found the same tool at PepBoys for $18.99. Also, look through the other areas of the website. New bullet connectors with the sleeves! On another note, if you have a major electronics distributor in your area, AMP p/n for one of them is 60701-1 (not sure if it is the male or female). I lost the bag for the other one. Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavy85 Posted October 23, 2005 Share Posted October 23, 2005 I feel the pain man. Been trying to get my blinker's and other electrical $%&* to work. Fixed horn' date=' fixed emergency flasheres, still can't get the blinkers and wiper motor to work. [/quote'] I struggled with the turn signals for a while. Even had 12V to the bulb sockets ... without the bulbs in them. As soon as the bulbs were installed the voltage would drop to zero. If you turned on the turn signals one thing would happen would be the brake light on that side would go out like it should but the blinker would never blinke. After reading a bunch of stuff on here I took appart the hazard switch (despite the fact that the hazards worked) cleaned up the contacts inside and now the turn signals work. Basically since the signals go through the hazard switch on their way to the bulbs and that the contacts inside the hazard switch were corroded it wouldn't flow enough current to make the bulbs flash. Took all of 10 minutes to fix once I realized this. Have to take a pair of plier to pry open the tabs holding the back on but it's really easy. Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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