Chaparral2f Posted October 22, 2005 Share Posted October 22, 2005 It fried the points? When you changed the points did you get a new condensor? I've had them break down and do what you described. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbk240z Posted October 22, 2005 Share Posted October 22, 2005 Yo, IMO points suck. Go to a good salvage yard and get a HEI distributor, they are pretty cheap. It is hard to beat an HEI for a mild street driven combo. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest traub83 Posted October 22, 2005 Share Posted October 22, 2005 I like HEI's also!! I persoanlly really dont know what to think expecially if ya changed out the points already.. Its still ignition I can almost guarentee maybe if ya do swap on a HEI you would help it out plus prog gain a lil performance over the old points style! If thats not it then im lost!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted October 22, 2005 Author Share Posted October 22, 2005 the engine had an hei originaly, and i would have used it, but the cap diameter is too big and will hit the firewall. i need an electronic conversion for the points distributor but im still tryin to get all the bugs out of the whole car. Another weird thing is that it recently cooled off alot here and it didnt die on me the last time i drove for a good half hour, so i thingk somethings gotta be getting too hot. ozone in the cap maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buZy Posted October 25, 2005 Share Posted October 25, 2005 I'd go with a small cap mulitple spark discharge if you have the extra bling. To me the headache of messing around with old worn out ignitions is not worth it. http://www.msdignition.com/dist_9.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duff Posted October 25, 2005 Share Posted October 25, 2005 I had a similar experience years ago with an Olds Cutlass. It turned out to be in an entirely different area than electrical. It was the fact that after the car warmed up the carb hold down bolts loosened or expanded enough to allow air in at the base of the carb. Tightened them down and the problem went away. Since you said you added a gasket for insulation I doubt that would be the problem, but maybe something similar, intake manifold etc. Just a thought. One thing for sure its always the last thing you look at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted October 26, 2005 Author Share Posted October 26, 2005 yeah, i went over all the intake bolts and carb base plate nuts, so they are all tight, then i poured oil around the intake gasket and it was not sucked in, and i looked for other vacuum leaks around the carb but couldnt seam to find any. i wouldnt be surprised if the motor had a few weak cylenders i got it for free and its from a junkyard. i'm leaning towards the fuel mixture being the problem, i recently purchased a different carb from a swap meet, rebuilt it, and threw it on and it runs noticably better. i still have some carb tuning to do so ill let you all know what happens when i get that right. also does anyone have experience tuning carbs with power valves on both the primary and secondary side, should i use the same rated power valve for both sides or should they vary? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dead2me Posted October 26, 2005 Share Posted October 26, 2005 are you running a ballast resistor? most point sets will not endure long bouts of 12 volts applied to them, so they use a ballast resistor that cuts the voltage down to a lower level.. If you don't run one your points normally won't live that long.... just a thought..... A fresh set of points should last longer than 15 minutes before flaking on you but if you are buying chun-king parts, one never knows... Do you have good ground straps running from the engine to the frame or body of the vehicle? Improper or inadequate grounding can cause strange issues with electrical and ignition systems.... just some things to check as you have changed everything else.... What kind of carb are you using? Assuming it is a holley, but which model? Also, are you using a mechanical or electric fuel pump? I had a walbro pump years ago that would get hot and the pressure would droo off completely or at the very least, down to 1-2 psi when it got hot..... didn't take too long for it to get hot either... If you have a guage on it you can get it hot and then check the pressure to see.... What kind of a coil did you replace it with, and do you have it wired correctly? Some coils will operate when you connect the leads backwards, but won't operate very well... hopefully you will get it figured out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted October 26, 2005 Author Share Posted October 26, 2005 im using a set of mallory high po points with a borg warner coil, the coil says right on it that it does not need an externel resistor and it is wired correctly. im using the stock electric in tank pump with a regulator set at 5psi, im contemplating just removing the pump and running a mechanical. im not sure of the list number on the carb but it is a 650cfm spread bore double pumper with side hung float bowls, its practically brand new since i just rebuilt it. i changed the thermostat about a week ago and it seems to run alot cooler so i think the other one was junk, im guessing that the thermostat and the slightly lean fuel mixture caused the stalling problem, and it has not happened since, i might be in the clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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