dead2me

I used the JTR 1 5/8 which are made by sanderson... they fit really well..

if you want to do all 16 that way, knock yourself out.....

yes it does work.. but you will need a decent spring compressor to do it with the heads on... http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MOR%2D62370&autoview=sku before you try to undo anything, take off all of the rockers, then get a socket that fits on top of the retainer, but doesn't touch the valve head. then whack each one to break the retainers loose. once you have done that, then go cylinder by cylinder, put the hose or fitting you made in there and go through each one replacing the seals.. it works fine, just don't drop a valve.. if you try the wiggling part, good luck.. you will need them off of the seat to see if they are loose, and if you drop one, you won't like the results....

I did the same thing.. ratcheting tie-down straps and a block of wood, and it works well....

I agree.. I will never buy another one to pull the drivetrain out of... F that... too much time, too much wasted energy on ass-gaskets who don't show, want to haggle on already low prices.. yadda yadda.. .my time is worth more than that, and I ended up giving away a rolling shell with a bunch of parts stuffed in it just to get the tank out of here... never again.. not worth it, no way, no how....

did you have to change valve springs to run that cam, or did the stock LS2 springs handle it ok?

aluminum isn't a lot of fun to port..... cast iron is more friendly and forgiving..... aluminum balls up in your carbide bits pretty easily, and clogs sanding rolls.. a lot of folks try it themselves and give up....

for heating burritos on the road....you can fit several in there... intake performs well to boot......

I use my mount to beat my neighbors..... Silicone boy, I am laughing out loud at that pic..... people around me are pointing and staring... status quo....

the safety catch from a 280zx..... where in texas are you?

I purchased the JTR, but ended up making my own as it didn't line things up for me the way they needed to be... very little on my car on my car ever seems friendly though, quite female in fact....

you can always try a power-brute.... LOM59-12 R200 W/12MM BOLTS ALL 29 http://www.precisiongear.com/powerbrute.htm cheaper than a quaife.....

it may not sound fun, but the money saved on fuel etc.. can fund your Z project.. you will come out ahead more than likely, as if the NADA blue book value is around 4600, you will pay around 25% or less to keep the car..... I have a 2001 S10, loaded, 4.3 with a 5 speed, ZQ8 sport suspension, extended cab yadda yadda, power everything with 28k miles. I had it 3 weeks and was hit from behind and the truck was considered to be a total loss.. .. State Farm gave me 12.5 k for the truck and the buy back was only $1300.00. I kept it and fixed it for $2500.00, doing all of the work myself except for the frame pulling..... So.. the answer is, you should come out ahead, just do the math.. And no offense to the camaro and t/a crow, but they are a dime a dozen.. much more fun to be had with your LT1 pulling around 1000 lbs less....

Pete Paraska compiled a nice layout of what's required to do the CV swap with factory parts... http://alteredz.com/240ZCVHalfshaftConversion.htm

The R200 uses push-in stub axles that are retained by circlips that are in the side-gears of the carrier....

also depends on whether you want full length headers, or block-huggers.... the sandersons from JTR are top notch in fit and quality.....

Depends on what engine you will be using, what type of kit/motor mounts you will be using, and what model number the hookers are.... for instance, if you are going to use an LT1 with the JTR kit, For the D-Ports you will need headers for the D-port exhaust, as they are not only shaped differently but have a higher roof and floor for the ports, and don't play well with headers for standard ports.. You will want to use the Sandersons that are on the JTR page, they are made well and fit very well, and properly match the ports, and JTR has them for 75.00 less than Sanderson sells them for.. If you are using convential SBC heads, many block-hugger style headers will work.. Just do your research and search on here.. It has been discussed many times..

I just keep a light bulb in my mouth, that way I can see the keyhole in the front door to the house as the energy is discharging....

for those who need a few templates and don't have that nifty tool referenced above in your toolbox.... http://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi obviously the tool would be faster on a big project, but when you don't have one, this works very well.....

go to Summit Racing's site and reference part number SUM-G2990 $4.88 Each..Steel, 18mm x 1.5, Each

I found mine on craigslist.org... 2001 LS1 with 4L60E with 5500 on the engine, 20k on the trans for 2500 as a combo.. sadly it was originally a t56, but it was long gone... sniff sniff... it was local and I picked it up and was able to check it out first.... www.craigslist.org

can't know all of the answers, and we wouldn't need this site if we all did.....

No way jose... Ballast Resistors were only present to allow points to live longer by reducing the voltage to them down to around 9 volts or so... your HEI will not like that at all.....

knock out 3 of the 4 studs, then bolt up the rotor onto the axle, when you redrill for 5 lugs, you will actually only have to drill 4 holes, one remains on an existing stud, and you drill new holes where the other 4 holes line up... You can drill them yourself, but be sure that you have the holes exactly centered and you are drilling completely perpendicular to the flange... If you don't have a drill press, drill press vise, number drills etc... then you may need to take them to a machine shop.... also read these posts: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96240&highlight=drill+axles http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=70267&highlight=drill+axles http://zcar.netdojo.com/5lug.htm

lots of things you will need to figure out... diameter and length of input shaft, will it be the correct length to make it through the adapter and into the gm crank? what is the outside diameter of the shaft where it will need to ride inside the pilot bushing? Is there a pilot bushing made that fits the inside diameter of the chevy crank as well as the outside diameter of the nissan input shaft? most manual trannies are centered in the bellhousing via the outside diameter of the front bearing retainer.. does the Nissan trans have a removable bellhousing, or it is integral? heck if I know.... how to design the spacer/adapter and make sure it is concentric as well as centered, check to see if trans-dapt or advance adapters makes something that will assist in what you are trying to do what to do about a clutch/flywheel combo, i.e. Nissan Disc, and what diameter, gm pressure plate, which bellhousing? what form of clutch actuation will work for you? hydraulic, mechanical? it may be able to be done, but you will need to start doing the measuring, research etc....