olie05 Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 I've been contemplating an SR swap, for the economical aspects of the engine, and its weight savings over the L engine. Now I'm not a turbo person by any means, and I prefer trying to squeeze out the last amounts of power without "power adders" Does anyone have any input on N/A sr20's? What block/head would be the best setup for N/A? sr20ve? de? With the large engine compartment of the z with an SR, what would be the best header design? ITB's or intake manifold? How high CR can i go while on pump gas? (probably going to run it on MSnS) It probably won't happen for a while, since i'm quite happy with my engine right now just want to get some ideas for this swap... -Oliver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Maudlin Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 those are all probably good questions for SR20forum.com I have found info there in the past. It is mainly people with NA SR20's. The SR20DE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 olie i have a full S15 SR20DE (maybe VE?) with tranny forsale.. lets talk mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted October 17, 2005 Author Share Posted October 17, 2005 lol mike, you're always trying to sell me stuff. I don't have cash for this yet, just trying to get ideas for the future... think summer 2006. can you hold on to it until then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 i can always get ya one.. i got a RB25DE also.. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PROJECTRB240SX Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 Mike how much do you want for the s15 SR20DE? I have another project I was thinking about putting a SR20DE in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 i forget but ill get ya a price tomorrow. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 The only problem I see with the SR20DE or SR20VE is that they usually can't reach 200rwhp and remain streetable. A bone stock SR20DET with a muffler and some boost can push 200rwhp. Light tuning can put it to 250rwhp or more. The power gains from mods on the turbo motor ridiculously outweigh most things people don't like about turbo motors. Not to mention, the power band on the NA SR's looks somewhat like a Honda. Peak power is nice, but there isn't that much power under the curve. (narrow power band) You can build a 300hp SR20DET and keep awesome reliability, with minimal turbo lag, and the power band will be wide and useful. I'm not just talking here, I've driven and built many SR powered cars. It might be time for you to at least consider turbo as an option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted October 17, 2005 Author Share Posted October 17, 2005 well, some of the other reasons I want to go to an I-4 is because of fuel economy. If an SR20det can provide the same amount of fuel savings as an N/A one, then I'll be all over it. Then there is also price. I have noticed that N/A sr's are cheaper than Turbo ones. Plus turbocharged engines are always asking for more, (intercooler, piping, bov, DP, etc...) whereas an N/A engine, just drop in, hook up the exhaust and stick on a pipe and filter for the intake. One less thing to worry about for me. Although, since I do like doing things on the cheap, I could purchase a US KA24DE set up and swap that in, granted I'd have to make my own mounts as oposed to just buying a mount kit (vildini) and, then I would actualy be able to find some performance parts, such as a rebuild kit, for under $400 with Higher CR pistons, and N/A headers would be much easier to find for this engine than an SR20DE. Looking at both sides, I think i would prefer the SR, because, even though its more expensive (alot more), i believe that a stroker SR with High CR and big Cams would perform better than a KA with a few mods, and do it with less weight. who knows... I think i have more research to do on N/A KA's and N/A SR's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 I see. If gas milage is that important, you're not gonna want a small-turboed engine. You will drive around boosting all the time, and gas milage goes out the window. As far as peripheral parts to support turbo, yep... you're right. Buying an NA motor will be cheaper and require little extras. The motor mount points for the rwd SR and rwd KA are same. Both engines bolt into the 240sx in the exact same points. You should be able to use the Vildini SR mounts for the KA... I would venture to guess. The KA might be the way to go, then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PROJECTRB240SX Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 I Get Roughly 32 Mpg Highway Cruising And 25-28 Mpg City Driving On My Sr20det.... Well When It Is Running Right Or Running At All. Just Something To Think About. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thumper Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 Hey olie I ran my sentra with a sr20de for 4yrs so if you want to pick my brain give me a call. Basically the sr20de came with 9.5:1 us version or 10:1 j-spec. The sr20ve is nice but not worth extra money. You might as well get a turbo for that price. My sr20de made 165 at the wheels with ram air intake, msd 6a, hotshot headers, jwt s4 cams, jwt computer, 2 1/2" mandrel bent exhaust, and stock flywheel. You can't get sr20de over 150 without cams. Cams cost $500-600. Then you need an aftermarket ecu or get yours reprogrammed. JWT charges $600. The max compression ratio you can run on pump gas is 10.5:1 The engine itself is very stout though. I ran a 75 shot on my j-spec 10:1 comp ratio for over a yr with no problems. It even would have handled a 100 shot if I upgraded my fuel pump. FWI I have a j-spec longblock minus cams, valve cover, and etc... sitting in my garage. I would replace the piston rings and rebuild the head before using it though. I would give it too you for $50 if you want it. Also ITB's are the way to go on the sr20's they work great. The sr20de power band is nothing like a honda's A sr20de is a square motor meaning its bore and stroke are the same at 86mm. It has 20lbs-30lbs more torque than a similar rated 140hp stock honda engine. The power band is still very 4 cylinderish but much more useable power at low rpms. You can buy a compelete turbo motor with everything you need to get it running for $1600. This can make about 220hp without upgrading a thing. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted October 17, 2005 Author Share Posted October 17, 2005 hmmm.. knowing that the vildini mounts work with a KA is sparking my interest. I know N/A KA parts are readily available. Even with the Iron block, I will still save weight over the L28 it would be replacing.Maybe I will be the first person to swap a KA into a Z? Also, the KA sounds like a "stroker 4" with similar dimensions as what people do for stroker 6's, and we all know the people making the most power off N/A with L28's are those that have stroked their engines. Plus side: I would have plenty of money left over for performance parts!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparky Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 If nobody wants this, I am very interested! ... FWI I have a j-spec longblock minus cams' date=' valve cover, and etc... sitting in my garage. I would replace the piston rings and rebuild the head before using it though. I would give it too you for $50 if you want it. Also ITB's are the way to go on the sr20's they work great. [/quote'] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest grimlynsan Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 The SR20DET is an engine that could save you fuel dollars over the SR20 but wont because you will be too tempted to put your foot down. You obviously want it to have a bit of go because before you said you'd spend the extra on performance bits if you got the KA... The SR20DET is the only logical choice. Its cheaper to get more power out of for when you want to drive hard and is more fuel efficient for when you want to save fuel (if you can control yourself). If you drove an SR20DET at the exact same speed and level of acceleration you drove a KA or SR20 it would use less fuel. It wouldn't have to work as hard. If it is economy you're after. Go for the SR20DET! my $00.02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thumper Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 Personally I would run a ka24de then turbo it. You can get a turbo manifold for $300, oil line kit for $80, a t25 turbo for $50 and meqasquirt for $350 with sensors. Then again I think you are already getting the meqasquirt parts. Then you can run 10psi on the stock engine and have 230hp. Hey olie let sparky or I know about the engine so I can get it out of the corner of my garage. Hey sparky I would rather not have to find a crate and take this to a shipping company (they don't like coming to my house) so I prefer if you could pick it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted October 18, 2005 Share Posted October 18, 2005 hmmm.. knowing that the vildini mounts work with a KA is sparking my interest. I know N/A KA parts are readily available. Even with the Iron block' date=' I will still save weight over the L28 it would be replacing.Maybe I will be the first person to swap a KA into a Z? [/quote'] Nope, its been done. I don't want to say for 100% sure the Vildini mounts will fit the KA into the Z. I'm just saying the motors bolt up to the same points. There could be a clearance issue somewhere if this hasn't been tested... ie: maybe something bumps the firewall or the tranny tunnel? I'm pretty sure it will be ok, but it would be nice if someone could confirm it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted October 18, 2005 Share Posted October 18, 2005 who has done a KA swap in a S30 Z??? mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparky Posted October 18, 2005 Share Posted October 18, 2005 yeah its been done. I remember seeing pictures of it about two-three years ago. wasn't the cleanest install, but it was in there and running. and thumper, if I buy that motor I can just come and pick it up one weekend...I wouldnt want to pay the shipping on that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted October 18, 2005 Share Posted October 18, 2005 I owned a '91 Sentra SE-R with SR20DE motor for about a year... man let me tell you I fell in love with that motor. Paired with the close ratio trans, the thing felt VERY punchy, it really gave the impression it was much faster than it actually was. The thing just SCREAMS up to it's 7700rpm rev limiter. It must have a very light flywheel stock because it revs VERY freely. I got pretty good gas mileage too. In a roughly 2400lb sentra, driving it pretty hard most of the time, I averaged 26 mpg's. And believe you me I was hitting that rev limiter every day. SE-R.net and SR20forum.com are GREAT sources for info on this great motor. If there's a downside, it's that you can't really get big power gains from the usual methods, intake/exhaust/cams... the motor must be pretty optimized from the factory. I don't remember exact numbers but it seemed that most guys were maxing out around 160 whp with intake, head work, cams and exhaust... to get anything more than that you need MAJOR engine work which most people agree the cost-per-hp ratio just isn't that great so they all go turbo. It'll make for a moderately quick Z with GREAT handling from what is essentially a mid mounted engine, but don't expect to win a ton of stop light races *shrug*. By the way you can pick these engines up for like $300 from some places that 'guarantee' they have no more than X amount of miles and have a warranty. I think it'd make a very cool car but I'm just too big of an HP nut so don't think it would be fast enough for me.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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