patzky1 Posted November 9, 2005 Share Posted November 9, 2005 Someday, when I grow up, I want to launch like that... Seriouly good looking car, it's about the same color, etc. as mine. Pat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted November 9, 2005 Share Posted November 9, 2005 I have to wonder if the failure of the diff mounts contributed to the splines getting twisted. Interesting how only the ends of the splines are twisted. Almost like the majority of the splines were not mating. Think when the diff cracked it twisted pulling the driveshaft back from the yoke? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbc3 Posted November 9, 2005 Author Share Posted November 9, 2005 I have to wonder if the failure of the diff mounts contributed to the splines getting twisted. Interesting how only the ends of the splines are twisted. Almost like the majority of the splines were not mating. Think when the diff cracked it twisted pulling the driveshaft back from the yoke? Maybe both failed on the same launch... but when the splines twist in a slip yoke the only place you see a "kink" in the splines is where the end of the input shaft is in the slip yoke. All of the splines have to be mating or it would not slip into the tranny. I think the reason the splines twisted is because the slip yoke turned out to be a cheap no name chinese part. I replaced it today with a Spicer slip yoke. I had the DS originally made at Inland Empire. The place that I got the Spicer replacement said that this is not the first time they have seen a DS from IE that had the same cheap slip yoke on it. Also looking at the slip yoke that twisted, it has no manufacturer name stamped in it, and the sleeve that goes into the tranny had about 6 peened points to lock the sleeve into the base of the yoke. In otherwords, when we got it off it looks cheap! I tried to get Denny at Denny's Driveshaft to build the DS but he does not have the jig to balance the DS with the R230 adaptor. I know his DS's are top notch quality. Jody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack46 Posted November 10, 2005 Share Posted November 10, 2005 11.4 AT 120MPH W/ 1.6 60' NA EXCELLENT times IMO for any Z especially an LT1. I am running stock ported heads and a GM 847 cam which is I believe a 234/242 at 112 LS. Mine is esentially one step smaller ~846 with stock aluminum heads. I have yet to put the car on a dyno and give it a proper tune, it has been tuned by some street diagnostics only. From times I would guess you are ~370 RWHP. While on subject what are you using for driveshaft? I have one that is 'out of round' need to replace and want stouter u joints on rear. I just ordered a stall and expect to get ~1.6 sixties so I know I need to correct my driveshaft before next trip to track. The one from JTR seems reasonable at $55 for rear flange. Anyone know what number u joint it uses? Thanks I searched, but didn't see a precision number I could cross. Don't mean to high jack your thread. PS Edit The joint is a 369, then depending on the driveshaft you use determines if you use a 'split' u joint. Great unit u joint is quite stout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 Updates? Did you end up welding up the rear cover? Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbc3 Posted October 15, 2007 Author Share Posted October 15, 2007 No, I bought a new cover and rear cover studs from the local dealership (The cover took them 2 weeks to get.) and I reinforced the frame holding the front mount. Haven't had a problem with the rear and mounts since. Holy crap, I just looked at the dates on my original post and it was 2 years ago this happened. Time really flies. Jody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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