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1/4 mile times posted


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Thanks Thumper. Understand. So, how do you shallow stage?? haha. Sorry, I'm green. I know when you deep stage the top beam goes off leaving only the bottom.

 

You shallow stage by just barely getting both lights to light up and then you stop. You can roll an inche or two with both of them still lit up, but the earlier you stop the more shallow you are staged. And yes deep stage is when the top light is no longer lit. You probable already are shallow stageing. The other thing you can do is put a skinnier tire up front to reduce rolling resistance but this would negate the how you drive it on the street. Also it might make the car more squirly on the top end.

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Thanks Thumper. I do creep to the line then stop immediately as soon as the second light lites up but i may be rolling a little because like i said, while holding it @ around 5k after i've staged, the top light has gone off a few times meaning deep stage. Not a good thing for what i'm trying to accomplish... now i know. Appreciate the knowledge.

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i agree with Ted... i would check your cooling system and or head temp sensor.

on my old setup running the 77 ecu on the L28ET my thermosensor (no head temp sensor) was no good and my Z would run 9.5 at idle.. it was BAD. at wot it run like a champ and stay around 11.5 to sometimes 10.9.. still alittle to rich.

best i could muster with some old 225-60-15 yoko's with open exhaust (cut-out), no bumpers (its a 77), 1/4 tank of reg ole 93 gas, 55psi fuel psi at wot (maybe 45.. cant remember) with a starion fmic was 12.7.. blew the headgasket the next day..

it WAS pinging BAD at 18psi to 19psi spike but the bad headgasket sorta helped lol, was like a water injection haaha.

12 flat is screaming though!

Thumpers (Ted) Z was a low low 12 before he took it apart again.. yes it was blowing turbos left and right but it was damn fast!

 

im wondering what mine will run with the standalone and more boost 20psi on the T3... holset is next so i dont care if the turbo goes.

 

mike

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First off let me say those are some incredible times. Its unbeleivable your doing that with the T3 and the stock system. Two thumbs up for that. I know on a totally stock system with just an intercooler in my ZXT I was netting low 13's but woudlnt push boost past 15#'s

 

Second question is though, what type of driveshaft do you have. I mean mine was great for a good while, little more then a year and a half of drags, but only launching at about 3k, well the last time that I went, I busted the ujoints in the driveshaft like twigs, and this was with Street tires mind you.

 

I could imagine going with DR's and a 5k launch.

 

Did you happen to do anything to the driveshaft?

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I personally haven't heard of many drive shafts breaking from drag radial launches. Only for normal wear and tear and full race slicks. First to go is the r180, then stock halfshafts, then r200's, then cv shafts, and then driveshafts. Atleast that is what I think the order is. Thats not even getting into mounts or tranny's.

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Thump, sorry about not responding to one of your responces, i totally missed it until Mike mentioned it, and then i was like "what the h@ll is Mike talking about... I"M WITH TED..." lol. Sorry.

 

Ok, so it was rich all through, and you're right, i really do need to dyno or at least WB log it. I just keep holding off an everything until i (hope) to hit the 11's and then go aftermarket or Z31ECM which will allow me to run safer and log everything. I do think my radiator is a bit blocked up and hope to change it for a nice Griffin or similar this winter. I've been running without a thermastat all year. I took it out last year before i went to the track and never put it back in. Runs nice temps believe it or not. I did check the HTS and it's values are right in the range of what the FSM says. I tried different temps to make sure. Thanks Ted/Mike.

 

Thanks EZ-E. Stock '82 driveshaft. I am using CV's

 

Thanks Scottie. Me Too...I can't wait to do a T3/T4. Hope to run the T3 once more at the track, get the 11 and then start doing upgrades this winter. Question, since i know you're "pretty" familiar with dragging ;) Have you heard anything good or bad about the MSD digital 6 plus? The two-step feature sounds like it would help me off the line and the digital 6 has it built-in. Thanks.

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Jersey I run the msd 6al and love the built in rev limiter it is nice and smooth. Soon i will upgrade to the 2 step so I can build boost off of the line.

 

I too ran without a thermostat at one time then reliazed even at highway speeds my car would run cooler with a thermostat. The reason is, the coolant is recirculating way to fast through the radiator to cool off. With a thermostat in, there is a restriction, so the coolant flows slower so that it has more time to cool off in the radiator before going back into the motor. I would try thermostat and see if that helps.

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The main reason i'm interested in upgrading the my 6A is to have the "build boost while standing still" option, not really concerned with the over-rev protection but i guess i'll get that either way. I have the lin-loc but i'm not good enough to set that all up and put the correct load on the motor to build some boost all between the time of fully staged and when it's time for blast off. Plus, doing that bunch of times is a bit rough on the clutch! I was thining of going with the 6AL and the 2-step as well but then i noticed the digital 6 has it all built in and you can change rpm limits on both limiters with a twist of a pot in 100rpm increments. No pills to loose, and i know i would lose them! ha.

 

My Z runs nice and cool on the highway without the thermostat with is another reason why i think the rad is a little jammed up also. It's probably creating enough restriction to keep the fluid from running through it quickly. The only time it gets to the middle of the gauge is when i'm idling for a while and then the fan kicks on and brings down the temp.

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Ahh I didn't know there was a digital 6. Looks interesting. About the cooling on the highway is when the no thermostat will work best but still not better than a thermostat. Don't forget when you are racing your rpms are much higher so the water pump is spinning faster so your water will be flowing alot faster than say cruising on the highway. Me personally only noticed positive results in all categorys when I put my thermostat back in. If you want put a 160 degree in that way it will open up nice and low.

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I would hold off on doing any 2-steps, DIS-6, et al and put the money in a turbo upgrade. From my old L28ET experience, I would roast the tires badly with the stocker and could not get out of the 2.0x range. I upgraded the turbo and first time out, the car did not "feel the same" off the line but the 60' was 1.74! However, I had already made the decision to do the swap and did not pursue it any further.

 

I think the bigger turbo will allow for a more controlled launch as the stocker has too much of the opposite of lag. I know that is a weird way of saying that but hope you understand what I am trying to say. You have pushed the stocker way beyond its limit and you really need the bigger turbo anyway.

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Thumper, I completely understand what you mean. We probably just have a difference in opinion. The way i see it, without the stat, the coolant is always circulating no matter the temp which means i can keep the motor nice and cool right before i make a run. With a thermastat, the coolant/motor temp would have to get up to 160 before it flows through the radiator and then i'd have to cool it down from there. Also without the stat, there's less drag on the water pump. Might be slight but .004 is SLIGHT! lol. Thanks.

 

Scottie - going to do the T3/T4 upgrade this winter no matter what and figured i'd use the digital 6 with that as well so it wouldn't be like i'm pissing $ away. Believe me, i've done enough of that for the last 38 years!!! lol. And i do understand about the T3 being a bit "uncontrollable"... quick spool period which can start to spin them, killing the 60'. So you don't think i should try and get the basic setup i have into the 11's, huh? lol. It's just something i really wanted to do with the stock ECU and T3. I need a winter project anyway and i'm not afraid to blow it up if need be :) Thanks for the suggestions.

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Jersey- Yep difference of opinion both work though. I personally think being able to say you are the fastest person to run with the stock t3 is more of an achievement then getting another z to run 11's. Thats why in a few weeks you will be seeing video of me running 11's with the stock t3:twisted:

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Jersey,

 

I think you need to come down here and give me some pointers. What you've done with your setup is incredible.

 

I will also be playing with a two-step (My E-motive TEC2 has an auxiliary low-rev-limit function) when I get to the track next. I've set up two-steps on several other drag cars (no turbo cars, however) and they have always helped to add consistency to the launch.

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Ted, i edited my last post to say "i hope YOU do" It said "i hope i do" I was out for MNF last night and posted afterward... a little lit up :)

 

Thanks Rick. I'm sure you drive the Z just as good and probably better then me. The two-step looks very cool.

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