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HybridZ

newbie with stock brake problems


Guest analog74

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Guest analog74

Hi guys, I'm new to Z's (and small block chevys) but now own a '72 240Z w/ 350 and am having brake trouble. I've searched and read about 50 posts, but still don't know what to try next. When I got the car the brakes were scary - push once and the pedal was soft and barely slowed the car, pump again and brakes were decent, not great. The seller had installed new front calipers, pads and turned rotors. I replaced the master cylinder, rear wheel cylinders (one leaking), brakes shoes, couple of hard lines, rear hoses (with braided steel from MSA) and had drums turned. Have not installed front lines yet. I then bled system in the proper order until no more air came out. Pedal now feels firm, but definitely not rock hard when engine not running. After starting engine, brakes feel the same as before: soft pedal and weak stopping power when first stepping on pedal, get much better but not great with one pump. The motor definitely has a hotter cam in it, so I put a vaccum guage on line going to the booster. The needle vascilates wildly and rapidly between 7 and 14 inches of vaccuum. Is that a problem? How do I know if booster is good? Is this system particularly difficult to bleed? The car is also unmuffled at this point, so I can't listen for an air leak... Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks! (this looks like an awesome sight - I was thrilled to find it)

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Sounds like the famous age old reaction disk problem to me. The booster has a rection disk in it that will fall if you pull the rod out of the seated position causing the problem you are discribing above. New and rebuilt boosters come with a paper lock on them to keep that from happining. If you pull the rod the disk will fall. You may be able to reposition the one you have.

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Guest analog74

Thanks Dale,

 

Can you (or anyone) elaborate? I've never run in to this on other vehicles. I'm replying without the ability to look at my car at the moment, but isn't the booster sealed? Can you explain what I'm looking for and how you reposition the disk? Thanks again. Eric

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Eric, when you pull the booster from the firewall you can see the rod that is connected to the booster. Inside the booster there is a disk that is held in place by contact with that rod. If the rod get's pulled out then the reaction disk will fall out of place. That happened to mine and I didn't try to get it back into place because the booster was just in really bad shape. Another member here had posted a while back about being able to get his disk back in place. Personally if the booster is old I would just get a rebuilt one and be carefull to not drop the disk. FWIW the datsun 280Z service manual had a rebuild procedure for the booster. PM me for more info on that if you want to try it.

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From what I've seen reaction disk problems usually come around with a title like "I've bled my brakes 5000 times and I still don't have any pedal" or something like that. This could be a reaction disk problem but I'd guess that out of adjustment drums is maybe another alternative. If the rears are way out of adjustment the pedal will be soft and travel will be long. Shoes need to be adjusted so that they lightly drag. If you don't have any drag then they take an excessive amount of pedal movement just to come into contact with the drums.

 

The only booster test I know is to turn the car off and hit the brakes a couple times. Pedal should be normal, normal, normal, slightly harder, rock hard. That basically tells you that the booster is holding vacuum for the first couple pushes on the brake pedal.

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Guest analog74

Thanks guys,

 

I searched "reaction disc" after Dale mentioned it as a possibility, and I'd have to say I'm not sure other descriptions I read match my problem. I definitely don't have the over-boosted feel. Or Maybe I just panicked and pumped again right away instead of continuing to push until I got that sudden grab because the brakes felt so ineffective. But I'm going to take the booster off as soon as I get a chance and check for the disc because it's got to be in the booster one way or another I think. I am confident I have the rears adjusted out properly and everything is fresh. I didn't put the front calipers on though, so I'm also going to check and make sure the bleeder screws are facing up. I can't remember from bleeding them, but read they are possible to reverse...

Thanks again.

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Guest analog74

Okay, I understand where the readtion disc is now, but not how you know whether or not it's in place or how to reposition it if it has fallen. Can't see it, can't feel it, can't hear anything rattling around if I shake it. But, given the fact that I poured about three cups of rusty brake fluid out of it, I think I'll go ahead and order a rebuilt one! (the master cylinder was the first thing I replaced) Hopefully I can get one this week and assemble over the weekend.

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