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12.004 @ 114.62 Onboard Video


Jersey

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I ran BFG drag radials 236/60/15's @ 18psi. I slipped the clutch a little then released it pretty quickly. Put as much load as i could on the motor without spinning. By the sounds of the video, i seems could've have launched much better with more throttle but that is by far my quickest 60'. Still learning. Here's my setup to date:

 

STOCK

'82 L28ET & ECU

T3 (ran 19psi at track)

P90

3.54 open w/CV's

'82N/A 5sp

 

MODS

NPR IC

DSM BOV

Act clutch/PP

MSD 6a

370cc inj

AFM sping tightened 18 teeth

Threaded WG actuator

235/60/15 BFG Dr's

2.5" DP to 3" exhaust

MSD FPR

Walboro 255lpr pump

Custom fuel rail

 

I've never taken this motor apart. The head, pan, intake, exhaust manifold and T3 have been bolted together since '82 as far as know. The way i pulled it out of the donor ZXT is the way it went in my '73, just a little cleaner. Guess i got one of the lucky ones. Thanks guys.

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amazing...

 

wait.. I am running a stock T3.. and wait.. I am running an NPR intercooler.. oh and an ACT street disc and Stage I Pressure plate.. and wait.. I am running a 3.54 open rear end!

 

Wow.. but the only differences is I am running a 3" open downpipe and MegaSquirt n Spark and 440cc injectors..

 

damnit I can do this!! I can get 12's... maybe... hehe

 

Amazing.. I am in shock.. LoL..

 

have you done any weight reduction or anything?

i think next time I go to the track, I am going to slip the clutch so I get a damn good launch.. =) PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE

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What i've found with my old setup (stock efi, 370cc injectors, npr intercooler, 3.545, t3 at 18psi) the best way to launch with street tires was rev to 4k then let out the clutch halfway, slipping it enough to keep rpms up and not to much to spin the tires and then bog. Then as boost builds let out clutch fully then modulate throttle if spinning. When I went to drag radials I did the same thing only started at 5k. With my street tires i was able to launch as hard as other cars even automatics with drag radials. I never took it to the track so no 60' times. If you have a lsd then you can let your tires spin just alittle bit to help with acceleration. But with an open diff once you spin alittle it messes up your power distribution alot. Is this the way you launch Jersey?

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Guest bastaad525

Damn I was WAY off on your setup Jersey!!! I coulda swore you were running the BW 5 speed and a 3.70 diff! LOL well I haven't 'talked' to you in a long time... we both post a lot less often now than we used to.

 

I thought I did remember that it was a JY motor though and never been touched... you are damn lucky and got a really happy motor and turbo. It will be a sad day if either of those finally give up from all this extreme hard running.

 

I'm guessing with the threaded wga arm you get NO spike just straight to 19psi and stays there?

 

Proxalamus - PLEASE go run at the track... someone with a very similiar setup to Jersey but on MS should make quite a bit more power... GAWD who was it that made 200rwhp on MS at STOCK 7psi of boost??? But... I dunno if your MS can beat Jersey's motor just being a very happy motor :D He and his car are really in their own league IMO and no one I've ever talked to on here has gone near that fast on the stock turbo. But who knows Prox you could be the first..> DO IT!!!!

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VERY impressive.

 

Jesus but that gives me hope. I'm a mediocre driver so I probably wont ever see times anywhere in relation to yours but the setup is something I will be very close to when I'm done.

 

That is spectacular man, congrats.

 

Just wondering, what kind of boost do you run just wheelin around town? 18-19psi would eat the stock block kinda quick I would have thought.

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Guest bastaad525
VERY impressive.

 

Jesus but that gives me hope. I'm a mediocre driver so I probably wont ever see times anywhere in relation to yours but the setup is something I will be very close to when I'm done.

 

That is spectacular man' date=' congrats.

 

Just wondering, what kind of boost do you run just wheelin around town? 18-19psi would eat the stock block kinda quick I would have thought.[/quote']

 

 

eat the stock block? nope. The turbo bearing wouldn't be too happy about it though. The block can take quite a bit more power than ANYONE has gotten on a stock T3, 350-400 whp on stock block is not uncommon, but always on better turbos

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Joe, you've got me cracking up over hear! lol. That's exactly what i did with my front plate... bend it up. ha. I'll try taking it completly off next time... that should be good for .004, right? lol. Thanks.

 

PrO - My opinion, i think A LOT has to do with the launch. A younger guy at the track the other night told me that for every tenth taken off the 60' equates to about two tenths off at the end. I didn't know wether to believe him but it actually worked out just about right. Last year i ran the 12.47 with a 1.96 60'. This time i ran a 12.00 with a 1.78 60'. I've made no real changes between those times except launching better. No weight reduction, run it as i would on the street for the most part. I dont have a spare so that saves weight a little. You're right... practice is huge. I'm sure you can get well into the 12's if not 11's with your setup. Definetly need DR's or slicks and get a good launch.

 

525 - the donor car i got this motor from was sitting in the driveway, rusting to death, for the last 10 years unmoved. I approached the house and a little old lady told me it was he husbands car since new but he passed about 5-6 years earlier and she didn't have the heart to sell the car, but now thought it was time. $100 later and it was mine :) The threaded WG arm does give it a little spike but not much. I'll strap the camera back inside the car on a sunny day and shoot some video of the boost gauge. Thanks.

 

Mus - I'm a mediocre driver as well so you should be right there. On the street, i usually run around 15-16psi on 93 pump.

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Jersey- I agree on the 60ft times. I think with just a better start you could hit 11's. From what I heard on the video maybe alittle harder of a launch. It kindof sounded like you bogged for a split second. What rpms did you launch at? I think with those drag tires 1.6's are possible on the 60'. I decided not to put another t3 in i'm going to a bigger turbo. So I guess I won't challenge jersey:twisted: . Although in my mind... Nah I was running low 12's some say 11's but my guess would have been low 12's. Did I read correctly in that you are planning to upgrade your turbo this winter or what are you plans for upgrades.

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Guest bastaad525

Jersey - does your boost drop off at all as rpms go up? Me and Thumper are carrying on a discussion about this in another thread, and are wondering if threading the WGA arm will end up with boost dropping off. I imagine at such a high boost level it HAS to drop at least 1-2psi by whenever you shift?

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Thump - I noticed that bog a little at the start too but i think it may have helped build boost real quick with all that load. I think i should have tried a little higher r's as well. I'm really guessing at the 4500-5000rpm launch because i never look at the tach, i'm always watching the tree. That two-step would really help. I also think i could have been a little quicker with my 1-2 and 2-3 shift. They sound kinda slow. I cant believe you're not challenging! you WUSS. j/k :) Hopefully i'll fall in to some "extra" cash over the winter to do some upgrades - ecu, T3/T4, injectors..etc. I did continue checking tire pressure and kept them right near 18psi.

 

525 - i think i do get a little spike but i really think it has to do with the load on the motor. As soon i launch or shift into the next gear, the most load is on the motor, spooling the turbo up high. When the r's start to climb and the Z gets up to speed, there's less load which in turn the boost drops of a little. Just what i think is happening. I'll get that onboard video during daylight to watch the boost gauge and we'll see what's happening.

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Another thing I just thought of is WOT shifts. Since the stock ecu has a low 6300rpm revlimiter you could just shift without letting off the gas. This should cut 0.1 to 0.2 seconds off right there. You will notice alot since you are turbo. This way the turbo does not have to build up boost at all like an automatic. Even with a good bov you still loose boost.

 

Oh yeah what rpms are you shifting at. If you look my ghetto beast dyno chart in my album when it was at 18psi I needed to shift out of 1st at 5800rpms, 2nd 5300, 3rd 5100. This would keep the maxium torque to the wheels as possible. This helped my car alot in the qt.

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im still running the T3 till i hit 11's or break it... so im still in the game.

i do have a standalone but im also a 77 280z.

i have the same drag radials too :D.

hope you do it Jersey, it will just prove me right that it can be done with the correct tune and basic mods.

 

my Z should be running in the next few weeks if i get off my lazy *** and work on it on the weekends instead of watching horror movies :D. its my new thing :).

 

mike

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When i'm at the track, i recirculate the bov right back before the T3. Probably could help ET with WOT shifts, i'm just not a fan of doing it. Never liked spinning the motor at high r's without some load. I was shifting around 55-5800 r's in all gears. I will try the different rpm's for different gears you've mentioned.

 

Mike, i hope so too. Only thing is, i'm definetly not tuned right running a stock '82ecu and just bumping the static fuel pressure up to what i think may help leaness out on top. I hope you get out there and do it... then again, you are stand-alone :) Maybe i can get in Z-sport like you but for being the cheapest/least modified series one to hit 11's! lol. Call the article "BUDGET RACER" lol. Think i've got a total of $3000 into my Z. That includes what i bought the '73 for, 2 donor Z's, rims,tires and the rest of the minor mods like the MSD 6A, Walboro pump, injectors, NPR I/C, Act clucth/PP.

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Guest bastaad525

I wouldn't WOT shift that car... hasn't Norm (guy who ran 12's on SU'd 2.9 motor) broke like.... MAJOR parts by WOT shifting?? I think he straight up cracked a crankshaft doing that! SRT-4 guys are actually encouraged to do it, the mopar stage upgrades actually let the turbo hold full boost during WOT shifts... too bad the shift sucks for it :D

 

 

You would definately do better to shift at a different rpm in each gear. Someone here a long time ago posted a very cool MS Excel sheet where you put in your hp at several different RPM and then your gear ratios, and it will tell you what is your optimum shift point in/out of each gear.

 

You need a dyno sheet for that, unfortunately. I can tell you I put mine in there, with my hp peaking at 5000rpm, and found that it recommended the 1-2 shift at about 6000rpm, the 2-3 at about 5700, and the rest at about 5400-5500. That's with a late model N/A 5 speed.

 

You basically want to keep the hp peak right in the middle of your shifts... if your hp peaks at 5000, and you drop 1000rpm when you shift, you'd want to shift at 5500.

 

What it came down to is that you want your torque after the shift to be as close to your torque before the shift as possible, taking into account the multiplier from your gear ratio. If you nail the rpm just right your torque will be EXACTLY the same after you shift as it was before.

 

Did a search and found it, here: http://www.datsuns.com/Tech/whentoshift.htm. I forget who found and posted this, sorry whomever you are :D

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