scott19 Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 Ok, been searching, but I haven't seen this mentioned (probably because it's a dumb idea/question), so I figured I would ask: Instead of cutting and sectioning the front strut tube assembly, why couldn't you put a spacer ON TOP of the insert (between the insert and the gland nut)? When the strut bottoms out, isn't it the insert that's bottoming out, or is it the actual top of the strut assembly hitting the bump stop? If it's a stability question, couldn't you use the old gland nut (shaved down to fit inside the tube, along with a spacer, topped with the new gland nut)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 By sectioning the strut you basically shortening the entire strut assymbly by ~2" . You arent really gaining more travel but you are shortening the entire strut so that your 2" drop gives you the same travel. I dunno if this helps... but the answer to your question is no. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 The upper spring perch bottoms on the top of the strut (normally this is also the top of the insert.) Spacing the insert down just reduces droop travel and will most likely cause to car to lift an inside wheel in a corner at precisely the wrong time. A long slide will be the first clue that this wasn't a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott19 Posted December 13, 2005 Author Share Posted December 13, 2005 Good enough for me. Thanks Guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Here comes trouble Posted December 14, 2005 Share Posted December 14, 2005 by removal if the strut tower insulator and the addition of camber plates will lower car without sectioning strut tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted December 15, 2005 Share Posted December 15, 2005 The purpose of sectioning the strut tube is to allow the use of a shorter strut in the tube in order to gain suspension travel lost when using shorter/stiffer springs. If you use springs that lower the car 2", then you have lost compression travel when using the stock struts - you have moved the position of the piston in the strut downward 2". Since the Z only has a limited amount of traqvel to begin with, you haqve to have really stiff springs in order not to bottom out, which compromises ride qand handling in bumpy corners. You can use a lighter spring, have more compression travel, hold larger bumps better and ride better with the sectioned struts and shorter inserts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Here comes trouble Posted December 15, 2005 Share Posted December 15, 2005 I have posted this before and bears repeating.......... My KYB GR2 front strut cartidges from a VW Jetta that I use in my 2 inch sectioned 280 Z strut tubes have a longer stroke shaft but shorter tube cartridge body than the KYB GR2 stock front 280 Z cartridges................. I do not know about other brands of strut cartridges but I would be better off using the same type KYB GR2 VW Jetta strut cartridges in both front and rear strut tubes// the short VW catridges have the longer stroke photos :.....http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/detail?.dir=8223&.dnm=ab81.jpg&.src=ph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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