Clutch recommendations?

[HakosukaJD]

Looking for a heavy duty single or twin plate clutch that will install with minimum hassle on an L28.

 

Any recommendations?

[z-ya]

Clutchmasters has a bunch of different clutches. They have 5 different stages available. I'm using the stage one on a 165HP track car, and it held up just fine all season. http://www.clutchmasters.com/

 

Import Performance carries them: http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/cm_clutchkitsnissan.html

[Tony D]

Twinplate new will run around $1500 complete, clutch-cover-flywheel.

Tilton, OS Gikken, Exedy, even 10,000RPM in Lancaster makes a unit.

 

What kind of torque are you putting out that you are considering a twinplate clutch?

 

The advantage of a twin or triple plate clutch is that you can stay with organic linings and get far higher holding power---and retain stock-like engagement properties for street usage.

 

Usually single plate clutches will get balky once you try to pass more than 450ft-lbs through them at the diameters we work with (say maximum 240mm disc diameter).

 

Twins and triples also usually have lower rotational moments, so some thought to getting the car moving smoothly from a start has to be considered---they are usually not manufactured with a large inertia ring near the flywheel for smooth street starts (10,000 rpm can add this---they make their units "to order").

 

A rebuild on a triple disc Tilton will run you about $350/400. I have heard similar quotes from others with the OSG unit.

[HakosukaJD]

I probably don't need the holding power of a twin, but I have an OS Giken twin in my R32 and I love it. Small engagement zone, crisp response.

 

Although, if one of the clutchmasters units will work (STAGE III is most likely enough), I don't see the advantage in paying 150% more.

 

By the look of the vehicle choices in the CM line-up, appears they are straight replacements for the stock units..... Now if I can just figure out which vehicle my drivetrain is set up to look like Or are all L28's pretty much the same?

Thanks for the quick replies...

JD

 

Twinplate new will run around $1500 complete' date=' clutch-cover-flywheel.

Tilton, OS Gikken, Exedy, even 10,000RPM in Lancaster makes a unit.

 

What kind of torque are you putting out that you are considering a twinplate clutch?

 

The advantage of a twin or triple plate clutch is that you can stay with organic linings and get far higher holding power---and retain stock-like engagement properties for street usage.

 

Usually single plate clutches will get balky once you try to pass more than 450ft-lbs through them at the diameters we work with (say maximum 240mm disc diameter).

 

Twins and triples also usually have lower rotational moments, so some thought to getting the car moving smoothly from a start has to be considered---they are usually not manufactured with a large inertia ring near the flywheel for smooth street starts (10,000 rpm can add this---they make their units "to order").

 

A rebuild on a triple disc Tilton will run you about $350/400. I have heard similar quotes from others with the OSG unit.[/quote']

[Tony D]

Now if I can just figure out which vehicle my drivetrain is set up to look like Or are all L28's pretty much the same?JD

 

The L28 clutch setup is the same, it depends on the application and flywheel you are using as to what throwout collar you use. I set up EVERYTHING I have to use a 225mm L28 setup from a 1983 N/A 280ZX.

 

The stuff I pull off the 240's and 260's with the "long collar" gest used in my L20B powered 510's!

 

One collar, one clutch cover, one disc, one slave cylinder, one master cylinder. That's all I need to put on my shelf to fix ANY of my cars in the clutch area.

 

I gotta say, though, the 510 is still working on that huge 225mm 260Z clutch! I don't think it's worn 0.1mm since installation, and then it was used!

[RB26powered74zcar]

I would look into SPEC brand clutchs way before I bought another CM clutch. You get a much beter product with a SPEC for way less than you'd spend on the clutch master.

 

My clutch master blew up on James Thagard and myself while on the dyno in Fla. It was a brand new (aprox 1,500 mi) stage 3. The rivots that held the PP disc face on let go when we let off the throtle, and blew a nice hole thru the bellhousing.

 

I called clutch masters up to let them know about it and they right away blamed it on me saying I must have down shifted from 5th to 1st by mistake to cause that kind of failure...

[Guest ON3GO]

i have a spec stage 4 un-sprung racing clutch in my blue Z with there aluminum 10lb flywheel.

havent tried it yet but i know for a fact i went over kill and im fine with it ..

 

i just gotta find a slave cylinder i can use.. no ideas at all!

want it to last.

 

mike

[Tony D]

Speaking of blowing up the clutch, the 510 had evidence of the same thing with cracked bellhousing area in several different places.

 

If you plan on hopping it up, make yourself a scattershield out of some 1/4" X 4" wide strap. You can tweak it using a torch, hammer, and the edge of a bench or anvil. Weld some tabs on it, and use the engine bolts to mount it.

I wish I had a photo of the one we use on the Bonneville Car, but once you see one clutch explode, or flywheel shatter, you run a scattershield. I don't know of a premade scattershield for the L-Tranny---I figure there must be a blanket that is applicable.

[Guest strokerZ]

I run an ACT (Advanced clutch technologies) clutch in my turbo stoker and love it...pedal is a little stiff but not uncomfortable. The clutch has held out nicely over the past 2 years with some pretty hard launches.