JessZ Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 I went under the car and tried tightening all the bolts I could, some kind of difficult to get to I admit, but also I noticed something--there is that strap (some nylon tough cloth) under there and it seems to be rather loose, is its function to help secure the dif., can this thing be tightened by me, or do I need a new one? The problem is: if I am at a stop and put the car in reverse and let the clutch go abruptly there is a clunk. I will then roll backwards about 1 m.p.h. do it again and the same thing, and again and again. While rolling backwards then, I will engage first and I can also get a smaller clunk in first, second, whatever.., as long as there is some motion to move the drivetrain front or back. The forward motion does not create as bad a clunk. I replaced the all the U-joints: driveshaft (bolts tight), and the four axle U-joints (all bolts tight there too). Another mention. When the car is on jacks (girlfrined in the driver's seat) and I hold one axle and then the other, the dif. seems to not role smoothly--there is a kind of crunchy sound. It's not bad, but does not seem perfect either. And the driver-side wheel spins freely faster than the passenger-side wheel. Any comments to address any, or all of the above is a help. Thanks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quicker240 Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 please check the differential mount,it's kind of a rubber sandwich mounted to the nose of your diff between it and the cross member.It IS broken and needs to be replaced.Then come back in the house,come back to the website,and do a search on "diff clunk".Thank you,and have a nice day!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve72z Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 Sounds like your bearings might be bad. I just replaced mine. What a pain in the butt. I replaced both sides and if I remember right the total cost was around 130.00 without labor. I had the strut assembly's out of the car, took them to my father in laws show and used his press to seperate everything. If you want some pics private message me and I will send them to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 I went under the car and tried tightening all the bolts I could' date=' some kind of difficult to get to I admit, but also I noticed something--there is that strap (some nylon tough cloth) under there and it seems to be rather loose, is its function to help secure the dif., can this thing be tightened by me, or do I need a new one? The problem is: if I am at a stop and put the car in reverse and let the clutch go abruptly there is a clunk. I will then roll backwards about 1 m.p.h. do it again and the same thing, and again and again. While rolling backwards then, I will engage first and I can also get a smaller clunk in first, second, whatever.., as long as there is some motion to move the drivetrain front or back. The forward motion does not create as bad a clunk. I replaced the all the U-joints: driveshaft (bolts tight), and the four axle U-joints (all bolts tight there too). Another mention. When the car is on jacks (girlfrined in the driver's seat) and I hold one axle and then the other, the dif. seems to not role smoothly--there is a kind of crunchy sound. It's not bad, but does not seem perfect either. And the driver-side wheel spins freely faster than the passenger-side wheel. Any comments to address any, or all of the above is a help. Thanks...[/quote'] As quicker240 suggests look hard at the front diff mount. Then before you replace it and the strap, SEARCH for diff mount here. There are some EASY alternative solutions that will fix that problem for good. The stock diff mount/strap setup is... lacking. As far as your crunchy noise, when you spin one wheel like that you're forcing the spider gears to turn. The spider gears should turn easily, but they are straight cut gears and you can feel the gear teeth engaging one another. If it is really "crunchy" then that indicates that the spiders are broken. If it is just that you can feel the teeth engaging, then it's probably fine. I wouldn't tear into a 240Z diff. They are so cheap to replace I'd just find another used one and swap it in. $50 should be the most you'd have to pay for a stock 3.36 R180 diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 73Turbo240z Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 yea, matter of fact i have my stock 73' R180 sitting around, i'll throw it your way for $50, just pick up the shipping tab as well. just pm me if you need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed260Z Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 I went under the car and tried tightening all the bolts I could' date=' some kind of difficult to get to I admit, but also I noticed something--there is that strap (some nylon tough cloth) under there and it seems to be rather loose, is its function to help secure the dif., can this thing be tightened by me, or do I need a new one? The problem is: if I am at a stop and put the car in reverse and let the clutch go abruptly there is a clunk. Any comments to address any, or all of the above is a help. Thanks...[/quote'] The Strap your reffering to is called a tourqe arrester. But that's probably not your problem. Put in a new front diff mount, and it should solve your problem. From what you describe your diff has seen better days, and requires a rebuild. Not sure if it's worth it on a R180. (Cheaper to get a nice used one) Now would be a good time to upgrade to a R200, if you ever plan on adding more power to your beast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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