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Reaction Disk missing?? pictures added


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I'm wondering how boned I am here. I've searched and found tons of articles on the reaction disk slipping out and causing brakes to be either "on or off" (no real stopping power then locking up of the wheels). I've bled the living hell out of my lines after installing a 280zx master and 4x4 and 240sx calipers (living hells = > a gallon of brake fluid). So, I took my master off my booster and took a couple pictures. I think it appears I'm missing the reaction disk, but I have trouble visualizing the descriptions from previous postings.

plunger.JPG

here's the plunger that presses on the MC. I'm guessing the inner ring is left from the reaction disk... or I may be dumb... both are possibilities.

reactiondisk.JPG

here's the inside of the booster. Again, I'm guessing I'm not supposed to see that metal ring there in the middle. So, dissassembly or new booster??

The brakes are the last thing keeping me off the road. And on the road is where I reeeeeeeaaaalllllllllllllllly want to be.

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  • 7 months later...

i dont want to redo the whole booster, just want to pull the plunger out to see if the disk is still there. if not i'll fish it out with a tool. want to do all this with the booster still on the car.

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yea theres a clip around it. the clip kinda looks like a sprocket. i pried it out with a flathead screwdriver and the rest came right out. my reaction disk was still stuck in place but i pried it off and super glued it down just in case. put everything back together and the brakse still feel like crap... no resistance till bottom out.......

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If you "upgraded" to the ZX master cylinder, your rod may not actually be touching the back of the piston. I found mine hissed and wasn't firm until I was about 1" from bottoming the pedal on the floor. There was over 1/2" between the rod and the piston when I measured. Here's a quick little writeup that I posted a while back, but it seems you know about it (you were the only one who posted). So what issues are you trying to fix (description of sounds, pedal pressure and braking)?

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yea i read ur writeup and adjusted my push rod. but i didnt measure it. i just extended it approx that amount, then i found when i put on the mc it was too much and pushed the cylinder when the MC fully against the booster. i then shortened it bit by bit until it didnt push on the cylinder, at that point i assume the rod was perfectly against, but not pushing the cylinder at rest. then bled the brakes to shitz, yet my brake pedal has a super soft linear feel until it bottoms out and brakes lock up. the classic "missing reaction disk" feel... but the thing is my reaction disk is in place and super glued down....

 

i posted my problem on forrest's thread here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113035&page=2

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ich.... Which brakes lock up, front, rear or all? Then there's the common question I've seen asked "are you bleeders on the top of your calipers?". I have a feeling I'm not going to be of any further help. I'd recommend starting up a post about it with everything you've learned is not the problem.

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well i havent gone fast enough to actually lock up all breaks and screech to a stop. but it's "no braek, no brake, no brake, then sudden brakes when the pedal hits the end. and yes all 4 bleeder nipples are at the top. as for hte new post, i have pretty much the same problem alot of ppl are having that posted on forrest's site, but no one has figureed out a solution yet. so i dont really want to start a multiple post leading to no answer haha. i guess i just have to wait and see what others figure out. thnx though. but btw, how does ur pedal feelnow with the 4 disks and the larger MC, same as oem? firmer than oem? or lighter than oem? thnx

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