Z0wner Posted January 9, 2006 Author Share Posted January 9, 2006 So, I'll assume, box off the other areas in order to keep the good stuff from warping? Also, How do I go about repairing it after? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 That car isn't as bad as mine. The captions are there because someone wanted to buy the car but I decide not to because of stuff that happend. This shows what happens when body is not prepped for paint properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mom'sZ Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 So' date=' I'll assume, box off the other areas in order to keep the good stuff from warping? Also, How do I go about repairing it after?[/quote'] I'm not sure what you mean by box it off, but... yeah, only do the rust spots, dust em' lightly until it's all gone, don't stay in one place for to long because you can warp sheet metal with a sandblaster. After you'r done, you can fill tiny holes like that with some kind of reinforced filler. You can use kitty hair or whatever. Tap it in a little so the reinforced filler is below the surface and a smooth coat of regular filler can go over that. I always liked all-metal, I think it's called. It's hard as a rock when it dries. Don't weld in patches unless there are holes larger then a quarter or the panel has lost structural integrity. You'l just create more rust later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 Just a note here on doing priming and bodywork, there are two schools of thought on using body filler - directly to met and on top of epoxy. I was watching speed channel last night and Legendary Motorcars swears by spraying epoxy, filling, then spraying epoxy again in order to totally encapsulate the filler. Makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mom'sZ Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Brad-manQ45:When body filler first began being used, (a long time ago) it had a lot of adhesion issues. It really would only stick to bare metal. So a lot of old timers, like myself, would tell you you can only use it on bare metal. Since then, body filler has come a long way. Some of the new formulas such as the glazing putty type filler will stick well to primer. This is a very smooth spreading version made for filling imperfections, pinholes and sanding scatches that takes the place of the old lacquer glazing putty (red lead). It mixes like regular body filler and comes in small cans. You can use it in the manner you describe, on top of primer, for all your filling. Regular body filler, the kind that comes in a gallon can, especially the cheaper stuff, might not stick to primer quite so well. You may have feathering issues, where the edge of the filler doesn't want to sand smooth. My suggestion, if you want to do it this way, is to purchase high quility filler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 My suggestion, if you want to do it this way, is to purchase high quility filler. I try not to go cheap on anything that matters. The car gets the good stuff, tools that will be used heavily I buy the good stuff. Clothes - who cares? I will admit to buying good scotch, but after the first 1 or 2 switch to a cheaper brand... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z0wner Posted January 14, 2006 Author Share Posted January 14, 2006 Well, Continuing the stripping down of the vehicle Worked on the floor pans for a couple days, here is the result... probably going to have to replace floor pans... Anyhow, Before I take a sandblaster too it, do I need to clean it up more? or can I move on to other parts of the interior... I know I need to remove the steering column, E-brake, and some other things, but as far as the metal goes, is that black tar crap going to interfere? I have a friend that is going to loan me his siphon feed sandblaster sometime. What type of media should I use? Where should I purchase it? How much does it usually run? Thanks for the help Driver Side Passenger Side Passenger Side closer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 Brake cleaner takes that blac tar stuff off. You can get it cleaner than that with a putty knife, but for the really tiny stuff brake cleaner is great. You'll run through a couple cans though, so make sure you're well ventilated or you'll be high as a kite. Your floors look like a worse version of mine. I had the same rust around the edge of the tar and under the seat brackets. I don't know if I'd replace the whole pan though. Looks like you might be able to patch some of the big holes and call it a day. Only thing I can see that is going to give you serious trouble is the rust under the seat brackets. Those brackets are a serious PITA to get off the floor and I don't know if you can get the rust out from under them any other way... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z0wner Posted January 14, 2006 Author Share Posted January 14, 2006 What I was thinking.... Cut right next to that bracket, and then grind it down clean cut out both sides of pan, and weld? I don't know, but thats what I was thinking AH just noticed, there is a missing a hole in the pictures... Passenger side near the firewall by the door... Its about 5+ inches across, NASTY I'll take a pic or something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToplessZ Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 doesn't look bad at all. Ive seen much worse in Ohio where Im from. As for the floor just cut out the bad areas and weld in patches looks like they are solid. I would check the frame rails first though because if those are shot then I would go ahead and redo the floors at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mom'sZ Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 doesn't look bad at all. Ive seen much worse I'm with toplessz... that doesn't look bad at all. zowner, just be aware, when you fire up that sand blaster, sand is going to go EVERYWHERE! If the car isn't completely stripped it will be in the heater vents and every nook and cranny. Even if the car is stripped, it's going to take work to vacumn / blow / sweep all the sand out of the body. You should try to clean up most of the panel using the grinder, sander, wire wheel or whatever first, then use the blaster on only the pitted rust and areas that are shaped such that you can't get them with a grinder or whatever. On areas that would be patched, cut back to clean steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 I'm with toplessz... that doesn't look bad at all.zowner' date=' just be aware, when you fire up that sand blaster, sand is going to go EVERYWHERE! If the car isn't completely stripped it will be in the heater vents and every nook and cranny. Even if the car is stripped, it's going to take work to vacumn / blow / sweep all the sand out of the body. You should try to clean up most of the panel using the grinder, sander, wire wheel or whatever first, then use the blaster on only the pitted rust and areas that are shaped such that you can't get them with a grinder or whatever. On areas that would be patched, cut back to clean steel.[/quote'] I agree. Even if you're soda blasting, it gets everywhere, and hard to get out completely. Makes it a pain to paint. Even getting the car acid dipped is a pain because of the residue. And about body filler, if you're in a dry area (humitity) you can get away with using it before primer. But I would rather put the extra effort and and primer->filler->primer it. Filler actutally absorbs some water and having any water right next to bare metal is a bad thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z0wner Posted January 15, 2006 Author Share Posted January 15, 2006 Alright, So, I cleaned up the pass. side a little bit. Here is the result Passenger side CLEANED UP MORE-SO Also, I wanted to get a picture of the nastiest part of the floor pans (in My opinion) This is located on passenger side near firewall on the right side Here it is: (KEY PARTS IN BOLD) Well, with work and a few unexpected surprises, I wasn't able to do all I wanted to. I am probably not going to start body work for a couple more weeks (if lucky) So far, the information has been greatI am really appreciating it. -I don't really want to go with a filler though, I would like to keep it all steel, for something that will last more then 5 years -I don't know about the frame rails as mentioned earlier. I can check them, but the cost of redoing them would probably be way too much for my budget, so THEY had better be good -Tonight I plan on removing the same tar stuff from the rear of the vehicle, and clean up some of the remaining pan tar. If possible I want to start on the fuel system, but that may have to wait for tomorrow. -I pulled my back while lifting weights the other day, so now I have a few extra hours to work on the car for a little while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 -I don't really want to go with a filler though, I would like to keep it all steel, for [b']something that will last more then 5 years[/b] You don't use filler for interior. You weld your pieces, primer it, then use "seam sealer" on the weld joints on both sides (inside, outside). You use filler on the exterior of the car to smooth out everthing. As for the condition of the floor, you're luck. You can just hack and weld small pieces together, whereas I need to get a new floor and replace a good piece of the firewall. I don't think that the floor rails are to far gone, they are made from thicker guage metal and last a little longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z0wner Posted January 15, 2006 Author Share Posted January 15, 2006 For bondo, I was referring to the hood Anyhow, I'll see if I can get more updates or something soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z0wner Posted January 16, 2006 Author Share Posted January 16, 2006 Alright, some more progress... Father and brother removed the fuel tank while I was at work Brother and I finished up cleaning the hatch area. Some pictures of finished work Here is a picture of hatch area after scraping / mineral spirits. Happy to say, NO visible rust Here is a picture of a closer view of the rear area... bad angle / bad viewing area... but anyway Here is a picture overall of the front interior after scraping / mineral spirits / vacuuming etc. It looks pretty darn good if you ask me I'll keep you guys informed as more comes along EDIT:::: Just a comparison FROM THIS: TO THIS: FROM THIS: TO THIS: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z0wner Posted January 25, 2006 Author Share Posted January 25, 2006 Well, 3 weeks ago i hurt my back deadlifting Just found out by the doctor that I have a bulged disk... no lifting weights for 6-9 months... I REALLY enjoyed lifting weights everyday, and it was something I really looked forward to.... :'( Only one brightside, i may be able to earn more money at work by adding more hours to my schedule Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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