shaved door handles

[zliminator]

I'm searching for "how to shave door handles" and it looks like the only right way to do it is to weld in a piece of sheet metal over the hole. Since I've had some experience making fiberglass molds, why not fill in the hole just long enough to make a mold of the door, then make a part and cut out the entire door skin? Not that it would save that much weight, but as long as I kept the mold, I could always make another part. Has anyone ever attempted this? I've been wanting to do this for a long time and besides, one of my doors was hit by a falling branch during the storm.

[Here comes trouble]

A thin door fiberglass skin at the minimum would be 1/8 inch thick. The gelcoat alone would be thicker than a metal door skin. Weld in sheet metal for a shaved look. As an alternative......... Sand blast the the door handles and paint them the same color as the car. ..........Now here is the weird part... A vehicle with shaved door handles does not seem to survive or last very long based on my experience.. Seems this modification puts a curse on the car's longevity and resale value. I considered shaving the door handles on my 250 Project but might as well kiss it good bye if I did. Some things just don't work that good for some unknown reasons...kind of like about half the marriages and honest congressman. I also have this covered bridge for sale................http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=8223&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos

[AK-Z]

One of the main reasons why no one ( that I know Of) has used fiberglass is because of thermal expansion and moisture incasement.

 

Fiberglass doesn't expand and contract at the same rate, although the difference is minimal, overtime the it will be noticable.

[mark]

How much for the bridge? Will you deliver?

[Here comes trouble]

If you are down river..it could be floated but the location is great for a drive thru restraunt or bed and breakfast with a private Z junkyard less than a 1/4 mile away.

[waynekarnes]

i am still in some what of a blue funk over body shop deal that went sour.

 

 

instead of working on my scarab, spent my money gather high quality parts for my son's baja bug.

 

 

 

for a quick reference of parts and instructions, check here.

 

http://www.electric-life.com/

 

 

 

i bought my kit from summit.

 

.

 

 

 

on my 240z

 

doors were cut and metal welded in place.

 

i haven't yet finished installing the kit.

 

one thing i do know, is you need to keep the springs that pull back on the rods that lead to the latch mechanisms. otherwise, the latches won't lock properly and the doors may pop open.

 

 

you are correct, cowl hood scoops get glued in place.

 

but hoods are not subjected to the abuse a door is.

 

you could cut and shape a fiberglass plug of sorts, fill the hole where the door handle used to be. glass layers in behind the plug to hold it into place.

 

fill in around the plug with good filler and primer, sand it all smooth.

 

if you don't drive the car much, you will get away with it for a while.

 

eventually, it will crack around the plug. years, months, weeks, days, hours ???? no idea. but, a little sanding, filler primer and, paint, you are good as new.

 

this is why when people modify head light buckets, getting rid of the seam at the fenders, they don't just bondo over the seam. it will crack.

 

to do it right, it will have to be welded.

[Chaparral2f]

I bought a kit from summit to do my doorhandles but then changed my mind. If anyone is interested They're still in the box they have 45lb solonoids, and door poppers. I'd really like to find them a new home.

Joe

[VRJoe]

Chaparral2f, Sent you a PM about the parts.

 

- Joe