Wilwood tandem BRAKE master cylinder in a 280Z

[Guest 73LT1Z]

While engineering the LT1 wiring on my conversion, I elected to mount the PCM on the driver side. This put it real close to the top of the OEM master cylinder reservoirs, and since I am using the Toyota 4 piston brakes, the JTR book (and sage advice here) suggests using a 15/16 master cylinder vs. the 7/8 in the car.

 

I did some shopping & it looks like I may be able to kill two birds with one stone. I found a Wilwood 1" MC at Summit (PN WIL-260-7563, $122, which is about the same price as the suggested 280ZX unit rebuilt) that uses remote reservoirs. I checked the specs on the bolt centers (very close- file to fit) and mount diameter, and they look very similar in design. The Wilwood has 3/16 fittings and the Datsun has 10mm. The Wilwood uses a 5/16x24 pushrod, and the Datsun has a similar diameter metric rod on the brake pedal- not sure if the Wilwood will work w/ the stock Datsun rod.

 

A side benefit would appear to be the ease of pressure bleeding with the hoses installed .

 

I searched here and saw no information for putting these on a Z, but I'm willing to give it a try, and will update here as I make progress.

 

Pic of the kit from Summit's website:

 

Specs pic from Wilwood:

[Cruez]

Interesting...

 

I am going to need a new M/C soon. My 4 pot calipers are in the mail. I'll keep an eye on this and see your outcome.

 

I wonder how much difference the bolt up to the booster is going to be?

[Brad-ManQ45]

Sure they're not 3/8"?

[Guest 73LT1Z]

I'm learning all the time, 3/16 tube apparently is the same as 3/8-24 inverted flare, which is the same thread as -3 AN.

 

Trying to find 10mmx1.0 adapters to 3/16 tube was difficult, but there are plenty of 10mmx1.0 to -3AN, so we'll see if this works.

[Guest 73LT1Z]

Major league confusion on brake thread sizes. I bought a couple of M10x1.0 to 3/16 flare adapters and some 3/16 SAE flare brake lines, since the Wilwood stuff is all SAE. Both sides of the adapter seem to have the same thread! The really odd thing is the metric line I replaced on the RF (that threaded right into the Datsun proportioning valve) threaded right into the Wilwood proportioning valve. The older lines did not, so I rethreaded them to 3/8-24.

 

I got the prop. valve, MC, and clutch MC installed tonight & all the brake lines connected. I'll do some pics a little later.

 

The clutch pin on the pedal is big time aggravatng. I was able to swap out the rod in the Wilwood clutch MC with the Datsun one, so I didn't have to rethread or shorten anything. The brake MCs are very similar in size, but I had to spend about 5 minutes filing the mounting holes on the new one to fit the Datsun booster. I ended up with a regular reservoir up front and a remote one on the back of the MC.

[fastzcars]

I was thinking of using that same master, but you beat me to it. Can't wait for some pics. BTW. I did use a single res, master fir the clutch from wilwood. I had to retread the dastun clevis, and file fit the mounting holes. as well as used a 3/16 to -3 adapter for my cluych hose. As far as the brake lines < i would just get some 3/16 brake lines from NAPA. Cut off one end and reflare with a metric fitting, they are the same diamemter tubing. Just a thought.

[Guest 73LT1Z]

Here are the pics- the hose to the the reservoir is not yet connected, and the front cap is real tight under the PCM, but it comes off & on w/o any problem.

 

The clutch rod was an easy swap for anyone else doing this- pop the retaining clip out on the Datsun unit, remove the rod (leave the retainer). On the Wilwood one, remove the snap ring, replace the rod with the Datsun one & use the Wilwood retainer & snap ring. This stuff interchanges so easy it is like it is made by the same company!

[Ed260Z]

I can see why you needed that M/C. Let us know how the brake pedal feels, once it's all ready to go.