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Pics of work I've done**have toggle activating cold start valve at full throttle!


big-phil

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Here are some pics of my intercooler, the damage I had to fix, my broken bolt to the dizzy I had to drill out to fix, my knock sensor I dilled and tapped my block for, and a toggle to activate my clod start valve at full throttle....it works!!

 

I pumped the boost up to 12 psi, and I don't hear any knock (as of yet)

 

the intake of the IC feels hotter than the out let, its working!

 

Does anyone know how much more fuel I'm getting with the cold start valve???

Is it enough? I'm looking for those 370cc injectors, but I had the cold start valve in my N/A intake manifold just sitting there doing nothing, so thats when the wheels in my head started spinning.

 

http://www.putfile.com/big-phil

CLICK ON THE LINK FOR PICS!!!!!!!!!!!

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the radiator hoses for plumbing are a quick, cheap, easy, way of doing it. I do completly intend on doing it the right way, but after I get a good IC, and a ecu that know whats going on. But it all works, and I'm going to try to watch, and listen for any problems.

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Some radiator systems hold 17 pounds of pressure. Even a low pressure system holds 7 pounds. I like that better than the home depot toilet couplers. Hot rodding is about trying out cheap stuff and being broke down on the side of the road if it doesn't work, thats the fun.

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Some radiator systems hold 17 pounds of pressure. Even a low pressure system holds 7 pounds. I like that better than the home depot toilet couplers. Hot rodding is about trying out cheap stuff and being broke down on the side of the road if it doesn't work, thats the fun.

 

 

I know a rad hose can hold some decent pressure, however the pressure in a rad hose is normally from heat and therefore comes on very gradually. Like I said, those hoses are probably ballooning under boost. I'm not saying it won't work, just that it's a little sketchy. Especially when I've seen the problems that guys start to get with plumbing as they approach 20psi. You'll find leaks that you never had before, even with decent couplers and clamps.

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I doubt the hoses are ballooning that much, I mean a rad hose is re-inforced with the fiber weave sandwiched between the rubber layers. When a car is idling at operating temp and the hood's up, you don't see any deformity in the hoses, and that's 14+ psi at 200F where the rubber is softest, not the cooler temps of where the boost would be when going thru them, when the rubber is much stiffer.

 

Plus, aren't you measuring the pressure at the intake, which is after the hoses? Looks like no matter how much they swelled, psi at the intake is psi at the intake and that's all that matters.

 

Pretty ingenious idea, even if it doesn't work out later. The neatest thing is you can go to the parts house and look through the hoses and find the hose with the exact bends you need, without having to get custom (read expensive) aluminum tubing fabricated.

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Yeah well if it works it works.. How do you find the cold start spray, does it have any kind of bog issues if you hammer on it too fast? (as in spray before boost has a chance to build) That idea is somewhat similar to how my alky injection kicks in. The alky richens the mixture under boost but it is controlled by a pressure switch. Very cool idea I must say..

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Idling and 14psi+ boost? Not on a turbo dude. :)

 

Dave

 

I was comparing a rad hose in its intended enviroment as opposed to the way big-phil is using it.

 

I know the sentence ran on a little, but it was 2:30 a.m. here, what's your excuse?

 

J. Soileau RB26zcar, thanks for coming to my defense. Where were you when i was in grade school?

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thats what I did I had a gift card to pep boys from x-mas, went down looked through all their hoses, found the ones that looked like they would work and bada bing bada boom.

I doubt the hoses are ballooning that much' date=' I mean a rad hose is re-inforced with the fiber weave sandwiched between the rubber layers. When a car is idling at operating temp and the hood's up, you don't see any deformity in the hoses, and that's 14+ psi at 200F where the rubber is softest, not the cooler temps of where the boost would be when going thru them, when the rubber is much stiffer.

 

Plus, aren't you measuring the pressure at the intake, which is after the hoses? Looks like no matter how much they swelled, psi at the intake is psi at the intake and that's all that matters.

 

Pretty ingenious idea, even if it doesn't work out later. The neatest thing is you can go to the parts house and look through the hoses and find the hose with the exact bends you need, without having to get custom (read expensive) aluminum tubing fabricated.[/quote']

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great job on that man. it looks like a bomb exploded in your engine bay. how the hell do you know whats going on? lol. and thats a radioshack switch isnt it! (i work at radioshack) nice job on that, thats a pretty good idea.

now thats funny!, If someone else had to work on it they might not know whats going on, but trust me, with all the hours under that hood, I know all to well what it ALL is.

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great job on that man. it looks like a bomb exploded in your engine bay. how the hell do you know whats going on? lol. and thats a radioshack switch isnt it! (i work at radioshack) nice job on that, thats a pretty good idea.

Oh! and since I live in Texas, Radio Shack's head quarters are in Ft Worth Texas, where else would I go! lol

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Guest bastaad525

dude don't rely on that cold start valve... they don't really supply that much fuel, and also, they really 'drip' the fuel more than a real 'spray', so may not be spreading the fuel out nice and evenly between all cylinders.

 

If you want to do something like that, take the cold start valve out and look at routing the wiring and fuel supply that go to it to a real fuel injector, preferably positioned BEFORE the throttle body, and set that up on your toggle switch.

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I did something similar to your cold start injector. I drilled out an injector bore in my throttle body and was running a 420cc injector wide open with an activation switch. I never got around to having it pressure activated since it was mostly just an experiement until I got the megasquirt going. It did help quite a bit, but had a ton of drivability issues. Hit the switch too soon and the engine would bog, hit it too late and have some detation. With water injection and the 420cc injector, I was able to run 16psi with no detonation. It was fun, but tough to use!

 

-jeremy-

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