Gavin Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Just recieved my matching tokico shocks and springs today! And started tearing down my suspension, starting with the rears. This is the stage I'm at. The first problem I ran into was with these bolts on the axle. I managed to get the nuts off but it turns out they are threaded through the flange as well. I'm having a really hard time getting a socket to stay arround them because of the way they are cast, and I have to move the suspension at a tight angle to get it on at all. Any tips on doing this? My next problem is with this bolt going through the center of the bottom of where the link connects (cant remember what its called, see pic). When I opened up this forum I saw a thread about a pin puller that is needed, is this that pin? Where could I get one of these and do I have an alternative? Hard to tell if its threaded in or what. Thanks for any help. I've never done anything like this. I'll keep taking pics as a go and make a mini write-up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjo046 Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Hi! Check out this site for hints: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension.htm Everything you need to know should pretty much be there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CruxGNZ Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 The bolts holding the halfshafts on are not screwed into the companion flange. Just pop them out. They seem to be rusted, so use some PB blaster and work them out with some love taps with a standard screwdriver, or whatever tool you feel like using. That pin in the last couple of pictures also pops right out. Hit it with some PB blaster, put the nut back on the end and tap it up. It will come out. I assume you want to pull that pin out so you can pull the spindle pin out (this is what the puller you were refering to is used for)? I also assume you want to pull all this apart to install new bushings? If not, you can install your struts and springs without going through the hassle of removing the strut assembly. Although, I recomend installing new bushings while you are in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Look for "spindle" and you'll find a wealth of info on the rear suspension. One quick note and it'll be a bit before you get here during re-assembly, that small taper bolt shown in your pics is there ONLY to keep the spindle pin from rotating when installing the associated nuts. Your picture shows it driven much further in than required. That's why you're having trouble removing it. When you put this taper bolt back in just be sure the flats of the bolt and the pin are oriented correctly, apply some anti-seize, and tap it in just snug. Use a nylock nut and washer to retain it and tighten just until snug again. Also, be sure to anti-sieze the spindle pin during re-assembly (assuming you intend to replace those bushings). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Mat's right. Smack the halfshafts with a hammer and they should separate. And there is no need to pull the spindle pins and remove the strut housing. Just do them right on the car. You're already at the stage where you can slide the old strut out and slide the new strut in, so do that. Then to tighten just put the top hat back on the strut and set it up in the strut tower. Now you have nice easy access to the gland nut that holds the strut insert in so you can tighten that up. Then disconnect the strut from the tower again, pull the top hat off and put your spring on. Your new aftermarket springs probably will not require a spring compressor, so slide them on. Now you can put the top hat on again, push the strut up into the tower and this time tighten the 3 nuts on top, then hit the center nut for the strut with an impact. I seem to recall that the torque on the center nut is only supposed to be about 40 ft lbs, so don't overdo it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavin Posted January 12, 2006 Author Share Posted January 12, 2006 Awesome thanks guys! And yes I am replacing the bushings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 When you do the fronts be sure to notice the orientation of the lettering on the springs, they are progressive and have a top and bottom. The rears are linear so it doesn't matter. Wheelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavin Posted January 12, 2006 Author Share Posted January 12, 2006 You're already at the stage where you can slide the old strut out and slide the new strut in, so do that. Well, appart from seperating the axle. It turns out that my energy suspension kit didnt come with those bushings.. So I'll just do what you said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed260Z Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Well' date=' appart from seperating the axle.It turns out that my energy suspension kit didnt come with those bushings.. So I'll just do what you said.[/quote'] What bushing's are you missing? I got the master kit from Summit, and it had everything but the front swaybar bushings. Be prepared to have a whole lot of fun with the spindle pins! The springs will drop your car alot. Here is a shot of mine to give you a preview. It also helps to use a drift pin, and lots of grease when your trying to reassemble the LCA to the strut. Have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavin Posted January 12, 2006 Author Share Posted January 12, 2006 Yup, nevermind I found them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavin Posted January 12, 2006 Author Share Posted January 12, 2006 Looks good. Will I want to modify anything else in the suspension, like lowering my control arm somehow? Also I am using the smaller diameter ZX turbo wheels, would that affect anything? Oh and another thing, my drivers side handbrake cable is sticky. Can I fix this or do I need to find a new cable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nope Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 If you are planning on pulling that spindle pin and its stuck, then clamp a vice or some vice grips the the threads on one end and pound away on the other side with a 3/8" ratchet extension as a drift pin while a friend spins the spindle pin back and forth (CW and CCW). Doing the spinning and pounding simultaneously works infinitely better than just pounding. It make the difference between 25 minutes per pin and 3 with twisting. Forgive the excessive use of the word "pounding." However, dont forget to have new spindle pins ready afterward because the ones you pull out will be fawked. But even if you dont do the spinning, chances are youll mushroom the threads you do the pounding on anyway. Then youll never be able to get your nut on again. sucks huh. yea it does. The nice thing about the AZC rear LCAs is that you dont have to use that damn pin anymore or fuss with torching out old bushings, plus you have toe and camber adjustability.. just got em along with the 5-lug brake kit, installing them tonite and this weekend. yey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavin Posted January 13, 2006 Author Share Posted January 13, 2006 Where is this bump stop I'm supposed to shorten? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 It is a cone shaped poly bushing that slides onto the strut shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavin Posted January 13, 2006 Author Share Posted January 13, 2006 Is it common for these to be completely disintegrated? Because it looks like thats the deal with mine. NM found them in my bushing set Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed260Z Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 My original's where completely gone. You'll need to cut the stops by 1/3 and then just slip them over the strut shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed260Z Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 Looks good.Also I am using the smaller diameter ZX turbo wheels' date=' would that affect anything? Oh and another thing, my drivers side handbrake cable is sticky. Can I fix this or do I need to find a new cable?[/quote'] With the smaller diameter tires you'll have more space between the tire & wheel well. If the cable is in good overall condition you can bring to a bicycle shop, and have them re-lube the cable. Or it could be that the mechanizim need some attending to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 73LT1Z Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 When you do the fronts be sure to notice the orientation of the lettering on the springs' date=' they are progressive and have a top and bottom. The rears are linear so it doesn't matter. Wheelman[/quote'] A question about this- what happens if they are upside down? My project car came w/ the front struts assembled, and when I put the V8 in for a test fit, there was like 6" of clearance between the tire & fender lip (the front end sat way too high). TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavin Posted January 14, 2006 Author Share Posted January 14, 2006 With the smaller diameter tires you'll have more space between the tire & wheel well. I was thinking more about camber/toe, or maybe youre saying that the wheel dia will not affect these things. What about lowering the car about 1"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 A question about this- what happens if they are upside down? My project car came w/ the front struts assembled, and when I put the V8 in for a test fit, there was like 6" of clearance between the tire & fender lip (the front end sat way too high). Some progressives like the Eibach's have lots of tightly wound coils at one end. That end goes UP, because the top half of the spring is sprung weight and the bottom half is unsprung weight. What difference does that make, really? Not much at all, until someone who knows better sees your car and says "Hey, did you know that your springs are upside down?" Your situation with the front end 6" too high is pretty much impossible. As I recall the Z suspension only has ~7 inches of travel. So something was big time wrong if you REALLY had 6 inches of clearance. If you're exaggerating, then it may be that someone put the front springs in the rear and the rear springs in the front. The front end of a Z sits high from the factory so almost every aftermarket spring lowers the front end more than the rear to compensate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.