nazar Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 REcieved all my things from JTR and was playing with the engine brackets. I dont get it, lol I got 2 plates and those 2 Y spacers, 1 longer, and 1 shorter. THen i have my lt1, with just the holes in the block where the mounts went Am i missing something? DO i still need to buy some GM parts? How does the block mount to the chassis? lol....i think im missing something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nazar Posted January 18, 2006 Author Share Posted January 18, 2006 i just found this picture, seems like i may be missing those rubber mounts that are attached to the Z? My lt1 didnt come with those....what are they and where do i find them? THe only rubber mount was the one that was attached to a big plate mounted to the block, but it definetly doesnt look like that...do i need early sbc rubber mounts? here's an lt1 with those rubber mounts, i dont think i have those?? was my lt1 supposed to have them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 You did read your JTR V8 conversion manual, correct? It is difficult to tell from the pictures, but do you have the front crossmember installed? The Chevy engine mounts should line up perfectly with the 'towers' on the crossmember. If you used the correct Chevy engine mounts, there should be a hole in the center for a large bolt that goes through them and the top of the towers on the crossmember. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nazar Posted January 18, 2006 Author Share Posted January 18, 2006 You did read your JTR V8 conversion manual' date=' correct? It is difficult to tell from the pictures, but do you have the front crossmember installed? The Chevy engine mounts should line up perfectly with the 'towers' on the crossmember. If you used the correct Chevy engine mounts, there should be a hole in the center for a large bolt that goes through them and the top of the towers on the crossmember. Davy[/quote'] ok...seems like these "chevy" mounts is what I dont have. Maybe they were left on the donor car? ANyways, i dont have them. I have an engine block with 3 holes in them, the JTR plates and big Y looking brackets( 2 1/16 and 1 1/16") Which chevy mounts do I need to buy? AFter that, thats all i need? Also, when looking at my sanderson hugger headers, doesnt seem that they will clear the jtr mounts if the spacers are installed to the block, maybe if hte plate is installed to the block and the spacers to the chevy mount...MAYBE Also, on the passenger side, the sanderson headers dont clear the knock sensor(i believe it is) and it seems like they point into the oil pan(they dont shoot straight down, they are angled more at the oil pan...) Did i get the right headers? He specified that he gave me the lt1 headers because of the D port....so ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VRJoe Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 From page 2-1 of the JTR Manual (Seventh Revision) "Use Chevrolet part no 3990332. These came on 1965-1972 Chevrolet trucks." If you don't have the JTR manual, get one before you do any more work on the conversion. - Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nazar Posted January 18, 2006 Author Share Posted January 18, 2006 From page 2-1 of the JTR Manual (Seventh Revision) "Use Chevrolet part no 3990332. These came on 1965-1972 Chevrolet trucks." If you don't have the JTR manual' date=' get one before you do any more work on the conversion. - Joe[/quote'] i have the book, so thats the piece then? I assume I need 2 of them? WHy doesnt JTR just provide these to make it a complete conversion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nazar Posted January 18, 2006 Author Share Posted January 18, 2006 http://www.suspension.com/prothane_g_m..html will these prothane ones work then? If im goin to be buying new mounts, might as well get polyurathane then? TO reduce engine movement??? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rototiller Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 i would get the stock GM ones. they cost a little more but are well worth it. the urethane ones will tranfer all that engine movement and vibration to the frame and ultimately resulting in lots of vibration in the passenger compartment. you want something that is going to smooth out that movement and vibration, not transfer it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spdsk8r Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Listen to what Rototiller says. The GM mounts dampen transfer of engine vibrations. By design they also do not allow much movement of the engine either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbk240z Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Yo, check out your local Autozone, they have the required mounts, $7.99 each, part number 2282. I have done 3 swaps using the JTR kit and these mounts, no problems as of yet. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nazar Posted January 18, 2006 Author Share Posted January 18, 2006 cool thank you What kind of bolts are you guys using to do all the mounting? Those 2 1/16" brackets are pretty long, so longer bolts are necessary, are you guys using some harnedened bolts? ARP? Something strong ? I mean it is holding the motor in Also, the mount that attaches to the datsun frame, does it only attach with 1 bolt? ? Just from the looks of the setback plate, seems like the motor wouuld be torquing heavily on that single bolt since its set back like 4", it would be almost like a prybar...but what do I know, I guess people have been using this for years...just doesnt seem very strong or sturdy, are you guys bracing the stock datsun mounts that are on the chassis??? I will have to attach the setback plate to the motor and then the spacer bracket to the GM motor mount because of clearance issues with the sanderson block huggers, they clearly wont fit with the spacer bracket mounted directly to the motor.... And i keep hearing about how people have to grind alot of the setback plate off to fit these headers, JTR sells this kit together to fit right? Why doesnt it fit?? Hmm...we'll have to see how it all sits, for now, it seems as the headers shoot down at an angle into the oil pan as well, not sure how it will fit but i'll have to see I guess....they said it would fit One thing wont fit for sure is the knock sensor i believe it is on the passanger side with the sanderson header, its clearly in the way, what gives??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 You can move the knock sensor. I have mine mounted on teh setback plate. It does not have to be in a water jacket to work. And plug the hole the knock sensor was in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeJTR Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 What edition and print date is the Z book? Also, the book, Chevrolet TPI & TBI Engine Swapping, has information that will help with the LT1 swap, such as air cleaner ducting, cooling, fuel, knock-sensor relocation, etc. The header does contact the spacer on the driver's side, and the spacer should be ground down or filed down for clearance. The reason we don't go with a shorter header (such as the CC3) is because the collector is so close to the exhaust port, that they burn out much quicker than the longer headers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Nazar, don't take this as a flame, but I just want to brain you. I've done two EFI swaps with Mike's kits and Mike's books ( V8 Z swap and the TPI/TBI book). Almost everything you need to know do the swap is in those two books. Dang man, the motor mount question is answered in the first couple of pages! The knock sensor question is answered in the TPI/TBI book. You have got to read dude, or else you're going to look silly asking questions like that. Don't take this post the wronge way. I'm trying to save you some grief. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 I agree with Dan, you need to read more. You sound like your panicking. Chill, things will work out, so you need to grind here, move that there... it's part of the package of doing a swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nazar Posted January 18, 2006 Author Share Posted January 18, 2006 Nazar' date=' don't take this as a flame, but I just want to brain you. I've done two EFI swaps with Mike's kits and Mike's books ( V8 Z swap and the TPI/TBI book). Almost everything you need to know do the swap is in those two books. Dang man, the motor mount question is answered in the first couple of pages! The knock sensor question is answered in the TPI/TBI book. You have got to read dude, or else you're going to look silly asking questions like that. Don't take this post the wronge way. I'm trying to save you some grief.[/quote'] no offense taken, i was just surprised not to see ANY pictures of the actual kit they sell being mounted, its a weird layout, there are tons of examples and pictures of home made kits that just use pieces of aluminum bar to space and mount the engine, i was just hoping for a basic picture that explains exactly where which part goes and in what order, that wouldn't be too hard would it? Doesnt matter though, i found tons of pics online with the jtr mounts and lt1, so no biggie, i already ordered engine mounts and tranny mount for the t56 I wanna get this thing in so i can start running the fuel lines, mount the radiator and setup my clutch system Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zerrari GTO Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 Yo, check out your local Autozone, they have the required mounts, $7.99 each, part number 2282. I have done 3 swaps using the JTR kit and these mounts, no problems as of yet. Good Luck! I just checked online and the GM 3990332 mounts are $78.00 and the Autozone replacement part IS $7.99! Sounds way too good to be true; anybody else tried these mounts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240playtoy Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 I got my mounts from Rock Auto. They're "Anchor part #2282".. I'm curious if the part number match Autozone's if they're the same part. Anyway, pennypinchers come forth: $2.71 a piece. Damn I love those guys, it's like autozone, but rediculously cheaper. (www.rockauto.com) Recommended to me when reading other threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nazar Posted January 19, 2006 Author Share Posted January 19, 2006 damn guys, these are motor mounts, they hold your motor to your car, why not spend a few bux? $2.71 for a motor mount? I would be scared to drive the car. I just ordered prothane mounts from summit, both tranny and engine. I like urathane, i run them in my current car and the vibrations arent half bad. Plus, its not a daily driving commuter, its a project car. Seems like summit has been getting quiet a few orders from me lately Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zerrari GTO Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 Yo, check out your local Autozone, they have the required mounts, $7.99 each, part number 2282. I have done 3 swaps using the JTR kit and these mounts, no problems as of yet. Good Luck! nazar-three swaps and no problems; you'll learn soon enough that cheap does not always mean bad! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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