Guest Trudge Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 I have replaced both front fenders with new OEM fenders from Nissan. They came with a black finish inside and out. My questions concern preparing the new fenders for painting and preventing future rust. 1. Do I have to remove the OEM finish or is it a good primer base. 2. I was considering the POR-15 or Zero-Rust product as a sealer on the inside of the fender to prevent future rust. I am most concerned with lower rear portion of the front fender below the A-Pillar and door hinges where the lower fender bolts to the body. That is where all that dirt and debris collects and holds moisture. Any thoughts on preping the fenders in this area. Jerry Birmingham, AL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theBrit Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 I have always found that wet flatting the OEM finish to ensure it is keyed and clean, followed by a light primer coat and on to finish has worked well for me, I think you need to assess how well the OEM primer was applied in your case. What are you going to use to replace the foam pads that sit under the fenders ? I have found the rubber sealing strips at MSA and VB but they don't list the foam pads anywhere that I can see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Trudge Posted January 29, 2006 Share Posted January 29, 2006 I haven't purchased the foam strips yet and I hadn't considered that they might not be available. hmmm??? However, we have a well stocked auto uphostery supply store here in Birmingham, AL. and they have always come through form me so I'll make a trip down there next weekend to see what they have. I don't like to use anything that holds moisture against metal like those foam strips. So, I might even upgrade to a more durable rubber compression seal, kinda like the one around the rear hatch, but one that can be flat mounted. I'll let you know what I find. That lower quarter is an area of concern since dirt, debris, and water from the wheel well and water from the cowl collect there. My parts car front fenders were rused out in that area of the fenders and the nose of the door sill - that area behind the fender. I'm going to do a POR-15 treatment to the inner fender and the inner door sill where the lower rear fender bolts attach to the bottom of the A-pillar. Then I'll apply a coat of Rhino truck bed liner. So even if dirt and debris collect, they won't be able to get to the metal. Also, I'm going to replace those rubber cowl drains with something I can attach a hose to and then route the hose down and out of the fender. At least that way the cowl drainage won't collect behind the fender. I'll take some photos and post them here and keep you up to date on what I find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted January 29, 2006 Share Posted January 29, 2006 I have always heard to sand off the factory coating and reprime body panels. RacerZ like Zero Rust for all of his personal work, and will only use POR-15 when customers insist.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waynekarnes Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 use a sprinkler elbow and a section of hosing. put the elbow into the hole, glue it in, slide the section of hose over the elbow, clamp it on. hose long enough to drop below the fender. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolane Posted January 31, 2006 Share Posted January 31, 2006 RacerX, Can you describe how you use Zero Rust as your foundation? I have a bare to steel shell now with replacement floor pans, etc. I was looking at using the Eastwood Product that is similar to Por15, Rust Encapsulator. This is where I a little confused. If I go with LineX or Rhino, do they need a primer? If I don't go with bedliner, would I epoxy seal over the Rust Encapsulator. I don't really have rust that I am combatting, as it has been cut out and replaced. I just want good protection and finish for the long haul. The Rust Encapsulator looks nice because I can buy it in spray cans and do sections at a time, but a roll-on might be better just for the mess aspect. I would definitely appreciate more info on your process using Zero Rust. I am particularly interested in underbody and fenderwells. Thank you, Joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted January 31, 2006 Share Posted January 31, 2006 Oops - hit the wrong key! I'm doin' fine RacerX. A few house projects and starting up a submarine shop have been keepin' me away from the car, but I am finishing up a 4' blast cabinet, then have to veneer some MDF that I am going to use in an emtertainment center. After these two projects, I will start tearing the rest of the interior out, then engine compartment and suspension in preparation for putting on the rotisserie. Just to make sure everyone is on the right page, I believe that you only use ZF for the underbody and possibly interior, and use an epoxy primer for all exterior panels that will be painted - right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolane Posted February 1, 2006 Share Posted February 1, 2006 Thanks RacerX, Do you use the Zero Rust on the exterior of body panels, say on the door skins too? If so, does it just spray on like regular old primer. You said that you top coat the Zero Rust. With what, high build primer, epoxy primer, 2 stage color, ...? I have looked at the Zero Rust site a few weeks ago and got the impression that it is used like Por-15. Guess not. Joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted February 1, 2006 Share Posted February 1, 2006 I have just obtained a POR 15 brochure. It mentions an 'SW2 protective oil" something with properties similar to fish oil. I was wondering if anyone has used this to treat the inside of the two main channels of the floor pan. Also, are the channels hollow the full length? I was thinking of drilling into them from inside the car at several points and spraying a protective oil, then welding patches over the holes. I also wondered what technique would ensure that the oil travelled along the inside of the channel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted February 1, 2006 Share Posted February 1, 2006 RacerX: This is most interesting. You are the only professional that I have heard of that uses Zero Rust as a primer basis, then topcoats with other paint. I would imagine that you scuff it before putting on any other high build primer or topcoat) paints - correct me if I'm wrong. I would also like to know, and see that every one else does, of course, what single and 2 stage paints that you have had success with using Zero Rust. In particular, where you haven't had to put on any high build primer - applying topcoat directly to Zero Rust. Even Zero Rust says to do test to make sure you don't have any incompatibilities - looks like you've already done it for us! I'm stoked - can just use Zero Rust - which is a lot cheaper than DPLF!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Trudge Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 If I'm hearing everyone correctly, I need to use Zero Rust on the freshly cleaned door hinges and topcoat with BC/CC over the ZR. What about applying ZR to the surface of the A Pillar where the hinges are attached before I re-attach the hinges. Would that be a worthwhile effort? I've removed fenders, hood, doors, rear hatch, quarter windows, windshield, and hatch window and will be painting jambs and full body with 411 Sunburst Yellow. So, cleaning and painting the hood and door hinges is the first step in re-assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolane Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 RacerX, Thank you for taking the time to write your observations! I certainly value your input and experience! Joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Trudge Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 RacerX, Thanks for your observations. I am a novice at painting and this will be the second time I've painted this Z. The first time I applied a Poly paint but this time I'll try BC/CC. I'm using a DA to sand off the old Poly paint down to the sealer/primer that I applied over the original paint. I've read many of your posts and your information has answered many of my questions. So, thank you very much for your observations. And, thanks to everyone else who provided feedback. I'll post some pics as my Z is painted and re-assembled. Although, this type of work is nothing new to the folks around this forum. Lots of experienced folks posting here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 A hearty THANKS RacerX! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyrus Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 where and how much for new fenders for a 240Z? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Trudge Posted February 3, 2006 Share Posted February 3, 2006 I ordered mine directly from my local Nissan dealer. $165.00 each. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolane Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 Trudge, You got a good deal. I paid $240 each just two months ago, and had to buy the pair. That was already discounted from the dealer. I assume yours are also NOS or OEM Nissan fenders? Joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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