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reliable L24 not working


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stock '71 L24...

 

The latest problem: I've got puff of smoke popping out of the SU closest to the radiator. The other is fine. Both air/gas screws were tightened, then brought out 3 full turns.

 

I've changed the points (gap .016-.018), cap, wires, plugs. Did not pull the rotor out. The pistons in the carbs do move up and down, the fouled carb does move just a barley easier than the other that's closer to the cab.

 

The symptoms before this would-be-easy endeavor: First the engine would die when I exit the highway. Then when driving casually the rpm would totally stop, as if the motor lost spark, then pick right up again. After this, about a day later, some mean backfiring. I'm mean like a shotgun, in fact my muffler is not sounding perferct anymore.

 

This seems like timing to me, so to duoble check. The firing order is 153642 and the pistons go 1-6 from front to back, right? And the dizzy spins counter-clockwise, right?

 

Bad gas? Something sucked into carb? ??? thanks, jessz

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Fuel pump maybe? One my 280z had a stumbling problem when I first got it It was becacuse it didn't have enought gas, lol. My other one would backfire like crazy, that was because of floading the engine. I'm not an expert but, am just trying to help.

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stock '71 L24...

The firing order is 153642 and the pistons go 1-6 from front to back' date=' right? [/quote']

 

NOPE! 153624 :eek:

 

Assume your firing order is not a typo, your #4 cyl is firing 120 degrees early, but that is sorta ok(or is it?), you'll feel power loss because there is ignition in the compression stroke. #2 cyl firing 120 degrees late is what gives you a lot of trouble, there is no time for the mixture to burn completely so it continues to burn as exhaust valve opens(backfire). Hot burning mixture squeezing out of tiny opening of exhaust valve = burnt valve, the valve will no longer seal(more backfire). Since your #2 cyl is messed up, that may explain the front carburetor smoking.

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  • 1 year later...

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