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A question to you turbo guys up north... cold weather boosting...


Guest 73Turbo240z

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Water injection, although it does work, should not be needed at this low boost. He has another problem if he has knock at 8 psi in 30* weather. I can run 12 psi, no intercooler in 100* weather with my POS Z31 on 91 pump.

 

What c/r are you running? I would double check the timing by bringing the revs up and using a bike pump. Pump 10 psi to the map sensor and see where the timing goes. It will be pig rich so you'll probably need a second person to ad some throttle to keep the revs from dropping below to where you have all your off boost advance in. I had to do this on my truck when I turboed it to find out max timing under full load (flapper door AFM) at high RPM.

 

 

 

put it to ya like this

in a talon tsi i had a couple years back. i had water injection on it. 180k miles on original motor' date=' 24 psi on stock ported 14b, a ported manifold, hard pipe kit, k&n filter, modded mas air, 3 inch turbo back exhaust pulled a nice 108 mph. for less then 500 bucks in mods. now the 24 psi was on 110 octane. im a HUGE FAN of water injection. it gave me a chance to run silly amounts of timing {close to 30 degrees under full boost} at this boost level. i can go into more detail if need be. but this should give you a good idea on what water injection can do. if it can do that on a high mileage turbo motor, imagine what you could do on a fresh L series!

 

as far as your problem. stock efi systems compensate for cooler air, standalones do not. {at least the ones im used to messin with} so. with the Ms system, im not sure if you can do multiple maps, like for warm temps, medium temps, race gas, pump piss, cold, or something of that sort[/quote']

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The car does not ping at 50+temperature up too 85 degrees. It hasn't been hotter yet. It only happens at cold cold weather. I pulled some timing and it should be much better. Megasquirt has a timing gauge on it so it tells us what the timing is at all times. I have verified the gauge is correct by revving the engine and watching the timing with my timing light so I know the timing is where it is suppose to be.

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Water injection' date=' although it does work, should not be needed at this low boost. He has another problem if he has knock at 8 psi in 30* weather. I can run 12 psi, no intercooler in 100* weather with my POS Z31 on 91 pump.

 

What c/r are you running? I would double check the timing by bringing the revs up and using a bike pump. Pump 10 psi to the map sensor and see where the timing goes. It will be pig rich so you'll probably need a second person to ad some throttle to keep the revs from dropping below to where you have all your off boost advance in. I had to do this on my truck when I turboed it to find out max timing under full load (flapper door AFM) at high RPM.[/quote']

 

 

never thought about his low boost idea. but boost is irrelivant in terms of cfm movement. being that he has a larger turbo on the car, at the same level as before, also means more cfm is being pushed in. anywho, thats a whole nother thread in general

 

 

take some timing out, save map as cold weather map.

i have done several cars with similar things happen, after the new map was put in, it was happy

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I agree with Clifton that you should not be having detonation problems at such a low boost level, and your timing is pretty conservative too. With colder intake temps, your chance of detonation should go down, not get worse. I think there is some other factor that is causing you to have problems. I can run 15psi on 85 octane when it is <30degrees outside, but can't even dream of that when it is any warmer.

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