Clifton Posted February 18, 2006 Share Posted February 18, 2006 Install was easy, have to drill out the inner LCA mounts on the crossmember but the rack didn't interfere with getting the drill in there. Caster is real easy to change on the car. I think I need to put more in though as I took some out compared to my old set up. It steers alot easier in parking lots this way though. I had lenghted my old arms 10mm, that's why they are boxed. I lengthend these the same amount. The billet arm assemblies are .5 lbs lighter than the stock arms, not my welded art:lol:. I also shortened the front and rear struts and installed bump steer spacers to get the arms horizontal again. I used a pipe cutter on the fronts and recip saw/chop saw on the rears and welded them on the car. I beveled the cuts and butted the tubes together. I used 2 peices of 3/4" angle iron clamped to the tubes. Tacked it in 4 places and checked the strut insert in the tube before finishing the weld. Shortening them was easier than I thought it was going to be. Before After Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunar240z Posted February 18, 2006 Share Posted February 18, 2006 Look's great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted April 2, 2007 Share Posted April 2, 2007 Sorry to bump this old thread, but how did you like using this pipe cutter for sectioning the struts? I have one at home and had never thought about using it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted April 2, 2007 Author Share Posted April 2, 2007 It worked pretty good. There isn't enough room to use one on the rear if you do it on the car though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunar240z Posted April 2, 2007 Share Posted April 2, 2007 i used a pipe cutter too. nice straight cuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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