SpeedRacer Posted May 1, 2000 Share Posted May 1, 2000 I know there was a thread here on installing the R200 per the JTR manual but I can't find it. Yeah, I'm fixing the infamous Z rear axle clunk but my JTR manual is to old and doesn't cover any of those changes. I installed a new front (later version) rear axle front mount and I have also installed polyurethane bushings that I got from Motorsport Auto in the mustache bar. There are two large thick washers for the top and bottom of each mount. I thought I read here that I should leave the top one out to improve the driveshaft angle. Can anybody help? Thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted May 1, 2000 Share Posted May 1, 2000 I cut the bushing off at the top (Between the mustach bar and the unibody) and removed the big flat washer. The mustach bar sits against the subframe. It works fairly well. I think I picked up some buziness, but the drive pinion angle seems to be correct. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted May 1, 2000 Share Posted May 1, 2000 I don't know where it went, Dick, but I'll tell you what I did. I have the urethane M-bar bushings. Like Mike, I left the large flat washer that goes between the body and the urethane bushing out. I also cut about 0.3" of the large diameter part of the top bushing off, leaving about 0.2" of this large diameter portion to act as isolation between the M-bar and the body. This effectively raises the rear of the diff about 0.45", which was enough to change the rear driveshaft u-joint angle enough to be the same as the front angle on my car, as well as lowering the angle into the desired max 3 degree range. This does about the same thing as removeing the stock upper rubber/steel washer, shy by 0.2". JTR doesn't cover the urethane, just removing the stock washer. BTW, you also have to cut off the same length from the inner sleeve on the urethane kit as you remove from the top bushing. Hence, I cut off a matching 0.3" from the inner sleeve on my kit. This is to retain the compression of the bushings when you tighten it together. It seems I had to ad some washers to the bottom of the setup since the threads on that stud protruding from the body weren't long enough once you took that length out of the sleeve and bushing. You could use the washer you removed from the top also - I just used a stack of (7/16"?) washers. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@tidalwave.net">pparaska@tidalwave.net - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpeedRacer Posted May 1, 2000 Author Share Posted May 1, 2000 Thanks Mike and Pete - that's just what I need to know. I didn't want to have to take this thing apart again. BTW Pete, thanks for the extra tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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