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Need Help with California Z Kit from Jim Cook Racing


Guest GLOCK23

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Guest GLOCK23

My friend has the California Z kit on his Z right now but we are currently having problems on getting the stock gas door to fit. Does anyone here have this kit and have had this problem?

 

Here is a pic of the kit:

DN001.jpg

Note: not his actual car

 

This is his actual car:

rearpass1je.jpg

 

If anyone could help us out in getting this gas door problem fixed, please email him at go7kanin@sbcglobal.net

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Nope sorry. I saw a 240z with a set, didn't remeber how the gas lid was fitted. That car was messed up and was sitting the same location for 2 years. I was going to jack the rear fenders but it was on private property.

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I actually had a 77 that I did the rear fenders with those quarters. I built a fiberglass box that made like a rectangular tube around the opening on those fiberglass panels and then continued and went around the original gas door opening. Since I made this box I was able to put a piece of metal that I taped with the holes for the gas door hinge. This worked well and fit well also. The only thing that seems different is that when you fill it with gas you have to insert the nozzle deeper into the car to reach the original gas hole. It does fit ans work well if you build a simple fiberglass tube/ box between the two fender panels. Good luck

Robert

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I have found a race car Z in a junkyard that has a chevy emblem on the side...no motor,trans, or interior...it has that california Z kit but the rear fenders have about 4" of flare added to that width...the rear tires are 335 width...it also has the aluminium ball/socket TC rods and HUGE swaybars... it also has 5 lug rear and L88 hood...I think I will buy it for the swaybars and TC rods and sell the california Z kit... If anyone is interested I will go buy the car and sell the kit ...no whale tail...just the 4 fenders and hood. I will also sell the wheels the rears REALLY WIDE...The kit is very heavy duty and is in great shape...I am guessing the the rear is converted to calipers and would include it if you want it all...If you would be interested give me a pm and I may quote you a price...I have to drive like 2.5 hours to the junkyard...lol and then I have to rip it apart and then dispose of the shell somehow...maybe the local Z junkyard would take it...

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Guest GLOCK23
I have found a race car Z in a junkyard that has a chevy emblem on the side...no motor,trans, or interior...it has that california Z kit but the rear fenders have about 4" of flare added to that width...the rear tires are 335 width...it also has the aluminium ball/socket TC rods and HUGE swaybars... it also has 5 lug rear and L88 hood...I think I will buy it for the swaybars and TC rods and sell the california Z kit... If anyone is interested I will go buy the car and sell the kit ...no whale tail...just the 4 fenders and hood. I will also sell the wheels the rears REALLY WIDE...The kit is very heavy duty and is in great shape...I am guessing the the rear is converted to calipers and would include it if you want it all...If you would be interested give me a pm and I may quote you a price...I have to drive like 2.5 hours to the junkyard...lol and then I have to rip it apart and then dispose of the shell somehow...maybe the local Z junkyard would take it...

what is your location?

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Guest GLOCK23
I actually had a 77 that I did the rear fenders with those quarters. I built a fiberglass box that made like a rectangular tube around the opening on those fiberglass panels and then continued and went around the original gas door opening. Since I made this box I was able to put a piece of metal that I taped with the holes for the gas door hinge. This worked well and fit well also. The only thing that seems different is that when you fill it with gas you have to insert the nozzle deeper into the car to reach the original gas hole. It does fit ans work well if you build a simple fiberglass tube/ box between the two fender panels. Good luck

Robert

do you have any pics you can post of that area? That would help a great deal since this whole gas door situation has been really frustrating.

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I had the same kit on my first 71 240... I cut a mild steel ring to the diameter of the opening and bonded it to the inner side of the opening, and bolted a household hinge to the door and the ring. Field engineered the hinge with a slight bend to the hinge pin, so that the hinge action was stiff, and kind of sprung to the open position. The stock door was not a perfect fit, so I finished it with fiberglass and extended the sides to match the sunken lip of the opening better. I was not happy with the reach into the opening tho, it was awkward, and I always wanted to extend the filler tube out closer to the door, and then finish it and seal it off from the inner body.

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Guest GLOCK23
I had the same kit on my first 71 240... I cut a mild steel ring to the diameter of the opening and bonded it to the inner side of the opening, and bolted a household hinge to the door and the ring. Field engineered the hinge with a slight bend to the hinge pin, so that the hinge action was stiff, and kind of sprung to the open position. The stock door was not a perfect fit, so I finished it with fiberglass and extended the sides to match the sunken lip of the opening better. I was not happy with the reach into the opening tho, it was awkward, and I always wanted to extend the filler tube out closer to the door, and then finish it and seal it off from the inner body.

by any chance do you have any pics of your gas door setup you can post?

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dude that car sould be GOLD...it looks so 70's ... it feels like a time machine..

isn't it fun to see how modding cars in a style is connected to the decade they are from!

 

Keep up the good work...

 

As for the cap ... why dont you go to a yard

cut out a door and fitting + fillerneck from a Z, connect that to the exiting fillerneck, and fiberglas the cut out part in the kit?

( do you follow me at all ? )

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Sorry I don't have any pics of that area, just of the car in general. I sold it some time in 87 or 88 I think. I can try to explain how I did it. If your kit is already installed on the car then you can take some card board and fit it inside to near the fron side of the gas door opening. you can then place the gas door hinge mount against that to create a template location. I actually went to a hobby shop and bought some thin plywood (1/4 inch think) that people use for RC planes. I cut it to size (not on the first try, but little trimming here and there and it fit fairly well with a very slight wedging between the fiberglass and the sheetmetal. I taped it in place, made some marks on the steel panel so I could ge the location right again. I placed the door in the closed position to make sure it fit properly. Almost forgot (don't laugh) used some tooth paste to put a thick coat on the back side of the hinge to mark the location on the plywood and determine where I should put the holes, which worked very well. I drilled the holes, used some longer screws with some washers, lock washers and nuts and tried it on for size. once I had it fiting like I wanted to, I took it out, sanded it slightly smaller, coated it with fiberglass and placed the nuts burried on the backside in the fiberglass. I threaded in the small bolts so they would go slightly through the nut on the other side. Once the fiberglass and resin has cured the nuts where captive and I backed out the bolts. I sanded it some more fitted it back in place (still with a slight edge) and tried mounting the gas door again. Once it opened and closed like I wanted to I un mounted the gass door and fiber glassed in the gas door mounting fiberglass encased piece of plywood. I then just built the rest of the box to enclose that area in the same manner. I did notice one thing that you will need to do which I lucked out with on accident is make the bottom of the box slope to a low corner somewhere make a hole in it and put a small tubing from that hole and run it through the fender cavity to the bottom of the car. I drilled a hole through the bottom of the fiberglass fender to let it out and it stuck out about 1/2 an inch. Also I used aquarium air pump clear tubing which you can get anywhere. The reason for this is that the box will end up holding water because of the opening of the JCR kit and you will want to allow the water and possibly gasoline to drain out and not rust through the inner fender which was your outer steel fender. This worked well for me. Good luck and if you have any questions drop me a message.

Robert

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