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Years and Models of all 302 EFI??


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I was wondering what years, and models the 302 EFI was put in. I was considering an ls1 swap but the engine and tranny combo was over my budget. Second question, how difficult is the wiring for a 302 EFI in a 74 260z?? Would I need to make something custom or would it be easier to find a late model Z harness that has fuel injection?? Thanks in advance.

 

Braxton

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Some good info here:

http://www.jason.fletcher.net/tech/specifications/specs2.htm

http://www.engineswaps.com/

 

I bought one of those "how to swap Ford EFI 5.0L books" (in the form of a .pdf file) from EBAY. It didn't have anything that I couldn't find for free here within these sites:

 

http://fordfuelinjection.com/

http://windsor-fox.com/faq.htm

 

I've been shopping around for an engine harness for a while also. Used factory harnesses are $100 on ebay, new aftermarket harnesses are $250-$500. The desireable A9L computer is another $100 used. Once in a while the whole Ford Racing "kit" (computer, harness, MAF sensor) shows up on ebay.

 

I am tempted to try a '96-'00 Explorer engine (5.0 HO, GT-40 Iron heads and good flowing, but tall, intake) since the computer and harness often sell for $20-$50.

 

The above mentioned sites discourage swaps with engines later than '93, however.

 

The other extreme might be to find a non-HO, speed density computer, 5.0L '86-'92 Thunderbird or Cougar with AOD. I've seen local ads for cars $400-$800. Unless you are building a drag racer, nothing shabby about starting with a budget swap.

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I have a 5.0L from a 1989 Mustang highway patrol car in my 1974 260Z. I used the factory 5.0L engine wiring harness and an A9P computer. Hooking up the wiring was one of the easiest parts of the whole project. It boils down to providing power and ground to a few wires, and to wiring up an EFI fuel pump. Before I started the project, I purchased the Ford EFI book by Charles Probst. This was a valuable tool, and I recommend that anyone wanting to install an EFI 5.0L buy this book.

 

There is no complete kit for installing the 5.0L into the Z. Almost everyone who has done this manufactured their own. When I first put mine together, I used the late model rubber mounts. I have since switched to a front plate / mid-plate setup. I really like the latter.

 

My car has been on the road and at the race track for over 5 years. I detailed much of the original installation in my early posts (circa 2000). You should really use the search function to look at my (and others') old posts. This will help you find answers to questions like: Which headers to use, driveshaft construction, adding a steering u-joint, what are your clutch options and others.

 

Good luck,

Dan McGrath

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Alsil on this forum sells an x-member for the 5.0 into a s30. It is in the 100-150 dollar range if I remember correctly, and you use early style mustang mounts which attached to the x-member. I think the Explorer engines are non-HO but I could be wrong. I would go with an early 90's mustang block with the stock t-5. If you are a budget that should be by far the simplest. As stated before, the wiring should be very easy. I am going carburated, but if you buy the block with the computer it is pretty much just plug and play except for a fuel pump which should be easy enough.

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bschiltz,

 

That's exactly what others are advocating. Pull the harness and computer along with the engine, if possible, and wire it up. If you can't get all of the parts from the same car remember that there are slight variations in EFI setups. Things like speed density vs. MAF systems and different injector firing order (a completely seperate debate) between HO computers and the regular computers. Try to keep the EFI parts all from the same car.

 

When pulling the harnes remember that you shouldn't have to cut wires to get the entire engine harness out of the car. You can remove the entire engine harness by disconnecting the main connectors in the engine compartment and then cut the opposite end out of the donor car's main harness for a clean install in your Z. I always cut the wires at least 6" past the connector so that I have extra wire to connect into the Datsun harness and still keep the "modular" nature of the Ford harness so that future harness swaps or testing is easy.

 

Josh

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