Guest JellyBlunt Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 well my bro crashed my paseo, and with the insurance money finaly bought the car of my dreams:mrgreen:. I got a 1977 280z original l28. I'm gonna be working on this car for a little bit. It had rust in the wheel wells, the interior is ruined. i already acquired a complete mint condition interior, and i'm gonna grind, sand, bondothe body and give it the 50$ paint job with the roller. So the prob;em is, the car has been sitting in storage for a while, i found two hornets nest,one on top of the vavle cover and another on top of the gas cap. I am now way in over my head, i need a car to be my daily driver. but it does not even turn over. What do i do to get this car started, and when i say the car doesnt turn over,i mean that when the battery is connected (new) and the key is turned, the car remains the same as before, nothing turns on, nothing. i went to the mechaninc and i was told the engine still had compression, and i needed new fuel injectors, so i bought some 370cc rc fuel injectors. What do i do to get the car running, which is the cheapest route, any and all ideas are welcomed, i need to broaden my horizons. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2126 Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 Just a thought! Based on what you have explained, I think you would be better off finding a reputable Nissan mechanic and let him get it running for you....unless you want to go though the learning curve! If so, plan on doing a lot of reading as well as some tool purchases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNeedForZ Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 Download a copy of "280z fuel injection book". It's good stuff. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonomaz Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 Lets assume money and time are no problem, but you want to spend as little as possible to get it running. To run you need Coompresion, fuel, and spark. Believe it not, none of them needs to be great for the engine to run. Don't guess or blindly change parts. Just make sure you have all three before you try to start. FI is more challenging and others can give tips on how to ensure it is working (remember your not looking for perfect here just good enough). Start by makeing sure that fuel is getting to the fuel rail at the manifold and call it good for now. Compresioin. Pull the little lead on the starter solenoid and jump the solenoid to hot (12V, and not the wire, the little blade connector on the solenoid). You'll get a nice fat spark and the starter wil engage to crank the engine. You need two things here. First the motor should turn over and not be frozen. Second the engine should make a chugga chugga sound like the starter is working against the comnpression of the engine. OK? good for now. Spark. Note where the number one spark plug wire comes into the distibuter and pull off your distributer cap. If the roter is not pointing to the number one wire, use the jumper trick from above to crank the engine over until it is close. What you want to do is stop the engine with the TDC mark on the crank damper aligned with the pointer on the front cover and at the same time the rotor pointing to number one. Once all these planets have aligned remove your oil filler cap and shine a flash light in the hole. Straight down is the Cylinder No. 1 intake cam lobe. it should be near the top. It will not be straight up but most likely on the spark plug side near the top. If it isn't write back for now lets say it is. Now. As best you can turn the engine (you can use the jumper trick here by tapping the hot source to "bump" the engine) put the damper timing mark between 5 and 10 degrees Before TDC. Reattache the distributer cap and loosen the distributer adjusting screw. Pull the coil wire from the distributer cap and placer it close to ground where it can spark. About a 1/4 inch from ground. turn on the ignition just to run. twist the distributer CCW the distance between two spark wire terminals on the cap. Slowly twist CW until the coil wire snaps with a bright spark. pull the cap and make sure the rotor points to number one. reattach the cap, plug in the coil wire, hook up the solenoid wire, replace the oil filler cap. Sit down and give it a start!!! If it does start, imediatly check for oil pressure. If after 30 seconds you don't have pressure, shut it down and find out why. You have to have each part before you try to start. Fix what you find as you go. Once one thing is fixed don't try to start until you finish the process. When it runs then start tunning and upgrading. Keep coming back here, there are alot of smart people with lots of Z experience. Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 He said that it doesn't crank. So one of the problems is electrical. Try getting new battery terminal and cables, clean the connection to the starter and test to see if the starter is good. And I think replacing the starter relay would help, it probably needs to be replaced anyways. edit: you can get the starter tested at NAPA, schucks or any of those types of places. don't know if they charge for a test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 Check your fuses, and fuseable links. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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