DarrellBuddy321 Posted March 20, 2006 Share Posted March 20, 2006 hey i have a no spark and its pissing me off. I checked continuity between the B/W from the transistor to the ignition switch and its continuous. And it also has source voltage. Just to verify where is the Y/W wire goes to pin 5 correct. What voltage reading should i be getting at the transistor? I have fuel presssure so thats part is okay. Im just concerned now with my spark. Oh and the green light on the ecu turns on. AFter about 1 sec of cranking it shuts off then turns back on. Okay so the Y wire on the 8 pin connector that is suppose to go to the ignition switch. What wire is it suppose to go to? The yellow wire on the ignition switch is only powered during cranking (start). But the B/W is a switch voltage source that has voltage in the on and start position. Should i hook up my wire to that? Right now that wire is connected to the Y wire on the ignition switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted March 20, 2006 Share Posted March 20, 2006 The output to transistor/ignitor is a pulsed wave that varies frequency on engine speed. It is very difficult to see without a digital oscope. With a meter you may measure some DC voltage but it is an unreliable reading. Here's a pic: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102960&highlight=ignitor I don't have time to find it right now, but I did write up a way to check a while back that worked for me with a small tranistor 12v battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarrellBuddy321 Posted March 20, 2006 Author Share Posted March 20, 2006 so the Y wire from the 8 pin harness should have constant power with the ignition switch on? Not just during cranking? i also hurculinered my engine bay. Do you think this can affect the ground in the engien bay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted March 20, 2006 Share Posted March 20, 2006 yellow white will be at zero while at rest. It should be pulsed while cranking or running. At each pulse the coil circuit is grounded and you get an arc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarrellBuddy321 Posted March 23, 2006 Author Share Posted March 23, 2006 okay so my wiring is correct but still no spark. I checked my ignition coil and it was out of specification so i replaced it. But still no spark? Im so fustrated right now. Is there anything else that may cause a no start? Please help me guys i know that you guys are reading this but please leave some input Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted March 23, 2006 Share Posted March 23, 2006 Did you try another ignitor? This is the test I came up with a while back when I had a new one and the old "bad" one to compare. I had a meter set up to measure resistance between the blue wire and the housing of the ignitor body (the body is normaly grounded when mounted in the car). With a little smoke alarm type 9 volt battery, I hooked the negative end to the ignitor body. Now watching the meter, hook the positive end of the 9v battery to where the yellow/white wire would normally go. A good ignitor will show a big change in resistance from high (disconnected) to low (connected), something like 2Kohms to 200ohms, but don't quote me on those exact values, this is from memory. A bad ignitor shows no change and may always have a high resistance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarrellBuddy321 Posted March 23, 2006 Author Share Posted March 23, 2006 when i checked with a test light at pin 5 at the ecu during cranking i had no pulse what so ever. The light did not turn on. I checked at at pin 9 from where the start signal is suppose to go into and i am getting a signal. Can anything else cause pin 5 not to pulse? or is it bad ecu? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarrellBuddy321 Posted March 23, 2006 Author Share Posted March 23, 2006 danm come on guys why dosent anyone ever want to help on these forums Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarrellBuddy321 Posted March 23, 2006 Author Share Posted March 23, 2006 can anyone in the bay area help me out? im in daly city Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BayAreaZT Posted March 23, 2006 Share Posted March 23, 2006 Just going from memory (and my memory isn't very good), I think the dizzy send the signal to the ECU. Maybe the CAS is bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 Sorry man, I've got to go read some of the schematic stuff before I can answer intelligently. I don't remember what all the pins were. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarrellBuddy321 Posted April 14, 2006 Author Share Posted April 14, 2006 i am offciaclly pissed off and about seconds to giving up on my z. THE PIECE OF **** WONT START AND NO ONE IS REALLY HELPING. AGAIN: -NO SPARK -HAVE FUEL PRESSURE -CAS IS WORKING SINCE THE FUEL INJECTORS ARE FIRING -NO SIGNAL OUT OF ECU -REPLACED ECU STILL NO SIGNAL -ALL WIRES HAVE CONTINUITY -PIN 5 DOES NOT PULSE DURING CRANKING -YELLOW WIRE RECEIVES VOLTAGE DURING CRANKING -HAVE VOLTAGE AT B/W AT COIL, STARTER SWITCH, EFI RELAY -THE GREEN LIGHT ON MY ECU IS ON BUT DURING CRANKING IT SHUTS OFF. AFTER CRANKING IT DURNS BACK ON. WHAT WITH THAT? PLEASE HELP. SOMEONE. ANYONE. IF IM A NOOB TO U GUYS FINE! BUT AT LEAST HELP ANOTHER Z OWNER. I SEE THAT PEOPLE OBVIOUSLY HAVE SEEN THE POST 132 VIEWS! JUST PLEASE HELP ME COME ON!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted April 14, 2006 Share Posted April 14, 2006 First you cannot see the pulsing with a meter. The only thing you can see off the y/w wire a meter is possibly a small voltage during cranking depending on how quick the meter and display can respond. Assuming you are getting an output from the ecu via the y/w wire. Did you verify the ignitor works with the test I suggested with the 9v battery? That should work. I have no idea what pin 5 is. Make sure when the ignitor is mounted in the car the body of the ignitor is bolted down to chassis. This is a must because it grounds though the ignitor housing. I even went so far as to attach all the body grounds together. Next, how are you testing for spark? If you are like most people they use a spark plug. This works but can be difficult to see. Did you put the plug at the input to the distributor? Don't forget the plug threads have to be grounded as well when testing. Take it one step at a time and work your way from the ignitor to the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarrellBuddy321 Posted May 2, 2006 Author Share Posted May 2, 2006 Well i just started working on the z again afer a while. It looks like sun from now on. My question was to double check wiring. But i was wondering if i should be getting voltage out of the fuel pump relay to the LR wire on the 6 pin connector by the battery. My other question is, is the green efi relay on the turbo harness suppose to have voltage coming out of the B wire? There is voltage out of every pin on that relay except that B wire. I checked these wires with the key in the on position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarrellBuddy321 Posted May 2, 2006 Author Share Posted May 2, 2006 OKAY ITS OFFCIAL I HATE MY ******* Z AND I DONT WANT TO WORK ON IT ANYMORE. THANX TO THOSE OF YOU GUYS ON THE FORUM THAT COULD HAVE HELPED BUT DECIDED TO BE AN *** HOLE. It dosent make sense to me that you would be so selfish as to know how to help someone and yet still be an *** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted May 6, 2006 Share Posted May 6, 2006 Dude, calm down and kick the dog or something. Ranting and raving will get you no where except banned from the forum. I worked a tech support phone line for a couple of years and I am used to hearing people get frustrated. It's also important to realize you steer the direction of the call. If you give misinformation or bad hunches to the person on the other end of the line he will go the wrong direction. I'm used to people saying "I checked that and it's good." Usualy I have to ask "what do you mean by good and how did you check it?" Nobody is getting paid to scan the forum every day and every hour so be patient. We don't all live to support the forum. First things. Isolate each part of the car before you go on. Make sure you have gas and spark and go from there. Stop revisiting the parts you covered already unless something changes or is intermittant. Make sure your connections are solid. I prefer to solder almost everything to connectors instead of crimping them. We start with fuel: You said you had fuel before so I assumed you had a pressure guage hooked up to the fuel rail and now you are asking about fuel again. Do you have pressure to the line when cranking the car and how many psi is your guage reading? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michez Posted December 8, 2006 Share Posted December 8, 2006 I have had the same problem and I simply couldn't find a transistor new or used anywhere so I did some research and it turns out that radio shack actually stocks the exact transistor that is needed the part # is 2n3055 which is a NPN. you just swap the one out on your old transistor. deffinitely solder it back together for good contact. "no pig-tailing"unless you want to mess up another one:grin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VinhZXT Posted December 8, 2006 Share Posted December 8, 2006 Darrel, Have you try to put another distributor in? I think the CAS is bad. The CAS triggers the sparks and not fuel. The EFI relay controls the power to the ECU and therefore controls both the sources for fuel and sparks. If you still have the CAS by the damper I suggest you to convert it to the 82-83 distributor. I had an 81 280ZXT that I rescued from a junkyard. It went thru several shops and none of them could get it running. I got it running by convert it to the 82-83 distributor and set the timing and it ran perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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