DarrellBuddy321

hey include me on the group buy. Hopefully the shipping cost can be cut but i am very willing for the that bumper.

Anyone know where i can get an overhaul kit for the 87 300zx lsd?

OKAY ITS OFFCIAL I HATE MY ******* Z AND I DONT WANT TO WORK ON IT ANYMORE. THANX TO THOSE OF YOU GUYS ON THE FORUM THAT COULD HAVE HELPED BUT DECIDED TO BE AN *** HOLE. It dosent make sense to me that you would be so selfish as to know how to help someone and yet still be an ***

Well i just started working on the z again afer a while. It looks like sun from now on. My question was to double check wiring. But i was wondering if i should be getting voltage out of the fuel pump relay to the LR wire on the 6 pin connector by the battery. My other question is, is the green efi relay on the turbo harness suppose to have voltage coming out of the B wire? There is voltage out of every pin on that relay except that B wire. I checked these wires with the key in the on position.

i wasnt aware that msa had fender flares for our cars but victoria british has steel fender flares.

i am offciaclly pissed off and about seconds to giving up on my z. THE PIECE OF **** WONT START AND NO ONE IS REALLY HELPING. AGAIN: -NO SPARK -HAVE FUEL PRESSURE -CAS IS WORKING SINCE THE FUEL INJECTORS ARE FIRING -NO SIGNAL OUT OF ECU -REPLACED ECU STILL NO SIGNAL -ALL WIRES HAVE CONTINUITY -PIN 5 DOES NOT PULSE DURING CRANKING -YELLOW WIRE RECEIVES VOLTAGE DURING CRANKING -HAVE VOLTAGE AT B/W AT COIL, STARTER SWITCH, EFI RELAY -THE GREEN LIGHT ON MY ECU IS ON BUT DURING CRANKING IT SHUTS OFF. AFTER CRANKING IT DURNS BACK ON. WHAT WITH THAT? PLEASE HELP. SOMEONE. ANYONE. IF IM A NOOB TO U GUYS FINE! BUT AT LEAST HELP ANOTHER Z OWNER. I SEE THAT PEOPLE OBVIOUSLY HAVE SEEN THE POST 132 VIEWS! JUST PLEASE HELP ME COME ON!!!

so if the cas is working then the fuel pump should start sending fuel to the rail? Will i see the pressure on my gauge on my fuel rail?

is there any way to test the cas?

can anyone in the bay area help me out? im in daly city

danm come on guys why dosent anyone ever want to help on these forums

when i checked with a test light at pin 5 at the ecu during cranking i had no pulse what so ever. The light did not turn on. I checked at at pin 9 from where the start signal is suppose to go into and i am getting a signal. Can anything else cause pin 5 not to pulse? or is it bad ecu?

I know that u guys dont like honda too much but my friend has their stage 3 clutch on his 11 sec hatchback. That clutch is damn good. He convinced me to buy the stage 3 clutch for my z. I dont have the car running yet but i am going to soon. the clutch is installed but my car is not starting. I just swaped my motor and trying to figure it out. But actually f1 racing uses fidanza flywheels as part of their clutch packages. So i dont know if that info helps or not. I find it kind of odd that they dont use their own flywheel with the clutches. But as far as the brand goes for their clutch my friend and i agree that the way that the stage 3 clutch grabs will kill the tranny before it dies.

okay so my wiring is correct but still no spark. I checked my ignition coil and it was out of specification so i replaced it. But still no spark? Im so fustrated right now. Is there anything else that may cause a no start? Please help me guys i know that you guys are reading this but please leave some input

o damnit so the connection goes before the throttle plate huh... Okay so now need a air fitting welded onmy inter cooler piping. Is there another alternative to doing this? Can i maybe drill the piping use a threaded air fitting with a nut on the other side and silicone around the top or something? My intercooler piping is aluminum and it was really expensive just to weld the BOV flange on it.

so the Y wire from the 8 pin harness should have constant power with the ignition switch on? Not just during cranking? i also hurculinered my engine bay. Do you think this can affect the ground in the engien bay?

hey i have a no spark and its pissing me off. I checked continuity between the B/W from the transistor to the ignition switch and its continuous. And it also has source voltage. Just to verify where is the Y/W wire goes to pin 5 correct. What voltage reading should i be getting at the transistor? I have fuel presssure so thats part is okay. Im just concerned now with my spark. Oh and the green light on the ecu turns on. AFter about 1 sec of cranking it shuts off then turns back on. Okay so the Y wire on the 8 pin connector that is suppose to go to the ignition switch. What wire is it suppose to go to? The yellow wire on the ignition switch is only powered during cranking (start). But the B/W is a switch voltage source that has voltage in the on and start position. Should i hook up my wire to that? Right now that wire is connected to the Y wire on the ignition switch

I was just wondeing where the other fitting on the wastegate was suppose to go. There are two, one on the top and one on the side. Where do the lines go? Which fitting should i use for a vacuum signal and should i get it off the turbo or intake manifold? I know there was a thread about the tial thing but i cant find it. I used the search with no luck. I did get a search result for the vacuum signal being that its better to take a vacuum off the intake manifold. I just wanted to confirm this Darrell

Wait so how would you get more steering angle on an s130? Is there different tie rods to get for the rack and pinion setup? I WANT STEERING ANLGE!

can some pleased give me an answer please

hey i found some really nice 60mm gauges is there anyway to make them work though? I want to replace my clock wiht a boost gauge

I know that you have to cut the the drive shaft because the KA gear box is longer. But i was wondering if you use an s13 short nose diff will that compensate for the length of the drive shaft?

would a 60mm gauge fit? what size is 2 5/8" in mm?

oaky so i figured that all out. But i have a question for you guys. On the 83 turbo harness there is a brown and green wire by the battery. I want to run these straight to the battery, my question is do you guys recommend running an inline fuse to protect the circuit wiring? And what size fuse would you recommend me to run? I know that: The G wire supplies powr to the Fuel injectors and the ECU. The Br wire supplies power to the vacuum solenoids,crank angle sensor, and the ECU. so is there a recommended fuse size to run?

THANX TO DGR FAMBRICATION IN Santa Clara, CA All my fob work is done, and done good! Dan specializes in datsuns and his work is really good! He also did my down pipe. I will posts pix to show.

i noticed you use a header wrap. Is 'there any downside to using it on the oem manifold? Is it more prone to cracking? I want to use a header wrap to help contain the underhood temps but i jsut wanted to have your opinion