Racinjitter Posted July 28, 2006 Author Share Posted July 28, 2006 Nice pic's thanks for keeping everyone up to date. i'm actually debating about doing this swap or building the VG30ET. If you plan on building up a VG, you can have one of my spare blocks. I need more room in my garage. Just PM me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinjitter Posted July 29, 2006 Author Share Posted July 29, 2006 I'll get around to the engine bay measurements later. Right now I have a bunch of sand stuck to me form sandblasting 90% of the rust out of the engine bay. Pic... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinjitter Posted July 30, 2006 Author Share Posted July 30, 2006 Measurements of the engine bay and the RB engine itself. I think I will not be moving the existing mounts on the crossmember... Instead I am thinking of making this out of 1/4" steel plate...(for mockup) then reinforcing it. Any suggestions? (besides being in actual scale) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveZ31turbo Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 Yea, thats right... You cought me... I am taking notes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 Yea, thats right... You cought me... I am taking notes! hand over those notes, mister. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinjitter Posted August 11, 2006 Author Share Posted August 11, 2006 I got some new parts yesterday. The 200zr oil pan and pickup. I put them on after relocating the dipstick tube. I will have to straighten out the tube because the dipstick will not go in or out smoothly. It is quite hard to find a reasonable place for the tube, the coolant-oil cooler is really in the way. I also recieved my guages that I will be using temporarily until i get the chance to make everything for the aftermarket guages. The plug for the dipstick tube is easily removed from the inside of the engine. To install it into the front location i set the plug into the hole and tapped lightly onto it setting it in place. I then grabbed a 1/4in extension and set it into the proper place. Here are a few pics... **edit** FYI http://www.nismoparts.com/catalog/?section=756 is now carrying N1 water pumps, N1 oil pumps, exhaust manifold gaskets, timing belts, idler pulleys and tensioners. The tensioners are the same as VG30's though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRAVED Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 hope you did actually put a oil pick on the block before putting the pan on looks good though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinjitter Posted August 12, 2006 Author Share Posted August 12, 2006 Oh , yea the pickup on the oil pan is the old one from the front sump. That would be crappy if It was supposed to go inside there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinjitter Posted August 13, 2006 Author Share Posted August 13, 2006 So I did a test fit today... So far the issues are that I would like to have te engine sit down in the cradle about 2 inches further lowering the CG. I think I will cut the existing crossmember down. I also need to change the angle of the engine mounting pates that I made by about 10-15 degrees, this can be done when I cut the crossmember brackets. I will need to make a powersteering hose to run to the rack, and mount the resivior on the US drivers side. There is pretty good clearance all around the engine other than that, I think that A/C could easily be used if I wanted. Well if you have any questions or suggestions please leave me a message. Here are the pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveZ31turbo Posted August 15, 2006 Share Posted August 15, 2006 I would like to have te engine sit down in the cradle about 2 inches further lowering the CG. Couldnt you use shorter poly mounts to lower the CG? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinjitter Posted August 15, 2006 Author Share Posted August 15, 2006 Couldnt you use shorter poly mounts to lower the CG? Yea, I was planning on using Jason's poly mounts in the swap... I could also go solid mount for the clearance. I would prefer not to go solid because I dont want to nut and bolt the entire car every time I drive it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dramier Posted August 16, 2006 Share Posted August 16, 2006 Thank god! Somebody else finally doing this! Mine is still running strong and I'm ultra-glad there's now a 2nd one in the works. I wish I had had the knowledge to do mine myself and document it, but unfortunately I didn't. However, anything I can do to help just ask and I'm there. Need pics of anything?? Need measurements? I can tell you the mistakes and hurdles... god I love finally having somebody to work with!! You've got the -exact- same IC I am planning on using as well. It's too wide for the stock position though so I am having to figure out how to modify the dash to get it to fit. Pointless at this time until I find a danged speedo cable for it... heh. I already have all the Japanese crap on the back broken down into English and what it should hook up to if you need it. I can tell you how to setup a quick tachometer as well when you get ready for that. By the way, plan on cutting the front brace between the headlights out and welding flanges on it for bolts. You will want it bolt-in so you can do timing belts later on. Big on my list of to-do's. I have to daily drive mine so I haven't been able to do squat on it. Also, if your source for that exhaust manifold can make another, man I would be all over it. No way I'm patient and deep-pocketed enough to wait for an HKS one to show up. I was thinking of ordering one of those cheap SS's to chop up and make better while I practice welding.. Have you measured for the driveshaft yet? Might want to do that immediately because you will almost definitely need it cut or made. It was also alot easier to move the radiator down some to make everything fit. I have a female consult connector coming so I can hook up the Blazt software to play with, I'll be sure to post that up when I get it working. If you don't have a female Consult (Think OBD) connector I can tell you where to find that as well. Heh, look at that. I write a book in pure excitement.. Being first is cool and all, but it sucks when you aren't good at fabrication.. hehehe... Congrats on the progress!!! Hit me up anytime for help, I completely support what you are doing and will help in any way I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveZ31turbo Posted August 17, 2006 Share Posted August 17, 2006 Count me in as number 3 for next summer dramier. I would probably be as far as racinjitter here, But I live up north and I have/had alot of body and structure work to do sadly. Well if you ever want to B/S my AIM name is torridplasma Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinjitter Posted August 17, 2006 Author Share Posted August 17, 2006 Dramier, I add you on my AIM. The next time I see you on I'll send a message. Same screen name. A while back we were emailing back and forth in regards to this swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinjitter Posted September 16, 2006 Author Share Posted September 16, 2006 Ok so I finally cut the engine mounts for the RBZ31, Now I am waiting for the harness (two weeks). I plan on welding up the new mounts tomarrow, well as long as the test fit is good. Then I will move on to the transmission fitment. Enough talk here is a pic of what I did today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinjitter Posted September 24, 2006 Author Share Posted September 24, 2006 I did a test fit today, and it looks pretty good so far. I need to bolt up the tranny for final fitment. Aslo there is going to be a revision in the mounting plates that I made. They are going to be an inch longer and the bolts are no longer going to be staggered. like this... So here are some pics of what I got done today... There are just a couple of interference issues so far, most notably the power steering lines to the rack. The other is the steering shaft it clears but not by enough yet... Another issue is the ride height, right now with just the rb in there it seems way too high, seeing as to how much the tranny weighs it will still sit a little higher than factory. No biggie, I plan on getting coilovers anyhow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveZ31turbo Posted September 27, 2006 Share Posted September 27, 2006 Very nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinjitter Posted October 7, 2006 Author Share Posted October 7, 2006 As Dramier suggested I cut the core support/ hood latch out to get the engine/trans assembly into the car. I plan on making some brackets to weld onto the removable hood latch portion, so that the timing belt will be easy to access instead of removing the whole engine. I finally dropped the whole assembly into the car, and wouldnt you know, I dont need to modify the tranny tunnel at all. But on the downside, I do have to make a bracket to mount the tranny to the trans crossmember, this should be butter to do. Z31 tranny mount on left, RB tranny mount on the right Z31 tranny mount on top, RB tranny mount on the bottom The shifter lines up perfectly in the old automatic hole in the tunnel. There is about 1/4 inch clearance between the steering shaft and the turbo elbow/downpipe. And there is plenty of clearance under the hood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinjitter Posted October 10, 2006 Author Share Posted October 10, 2006 I made up some brackets for the tranny today. I havent gotten around to putting it in yet, but I am 85% sure it will work with no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinjitter Posted October 14, 2006 Author Share Posted October 14, 2006 So I got everything bolted up on the Z, The crossmember bolts directly in now. It went pretty smoothly only a little bit of prybar action. The turbo elbow has more than a half inch clearance between the heat shield and the steering shaft. I did encounter a clearance issue with the speedo sensor on the passenger side, I will bring home the air hammer soon to fix this issue. I also had an issue with the tranny mount bolts, they were too wide so I ground the head down to the bolt itself. Now I am wondering if the driveline angle is correct. I guess I will have to bring home a magentic angle guage. Here are the pics... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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