Guest Anonymous Posted August 30, 2000 Share Posted August 30, 2000 I looked at a 240 with l6 engine and triple webers last week. Has a cage that extends from front strut towers to the rear strut towers, not a spec of structural rust anywhere on the car, interior is partially stripped(carpet gone). Paint is badly faded and has some surface rust on the body, but nothing sandpaper and a can of spray primer won't fix! I found out today that the owner of the car is removing the engine/transmission to put in another car(has a lot of money in the engine), which was also there... The 'other' car has rust and is in generally worse shape than the car the engine is in now! Anyhow, I'm told I can have the car, sans engine/transmisison for "$500 or $600".... the floorpans even have original paint on them, I mean no rust anywhere. I'm wondering why he's putting the drivetrain into what seems to be to be an inferior condition car? He mentioned something about not liking the cage in the car, but it looks fine to me. I wasn't able to examine the car in detail, but it didn't appear to have ever been wrecked, and it has no rust to speak of other than surface rust where the paint has worn through(paint looks original). Any suggestions on what to look for on this body once he has the drivetrain out? Other than obvious hidden rust and wreck damage of course..... I can't imagine why anyone would swap a drivetrain from a perfectly rust free, straight car into a rusty car with even crappier paint! Worries me when I think about it.... I have wiring, transmission, and a LSD to go in it. I only lack an actual engine to go in it, but you can get the turbo V6s cheap all day long(planning on putting a vg30t from a Z31 in it). This is shaping up to be a super cheap project, as I got the wiring and transmission for $200, car for "$500 or $600" as he says, and engines are readily available for $600-800 depending on mileage. My calculator says close to 300 horsepower in a 2300-2400 pound car. Yikes! Any suggestions before I dive into this? Seems to me that you just mount the drivetrain in the car, hook up some plumbing, get the engine to run, and have a driveshaft made? Oh yeah, and move the steering shaft Doesn't seem overly complex unless I'm overlooking something? ------------------ Morgan morgan@z31.com http://carfiche.com http://z31.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted August 30, 2000 Share Posted August 30, 2000 Sounds like a deal to me. I've got way more $$ money invested in my chassis and I had to repair much rust and have not roll cage. You might measure diagonally from corner to corner (an X) and make sure that both measurements are reasonably equivalent to make sure the frame is straight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted August 31, 2000 Share Posted August 31, 2000 Jump on it. If it is truly clean and rust free on the structureof the chassis, get it, build it, and drive it! Good luck and welcome to the fold! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clint78z Posted August 31, 2000 Share Posted August 31, 2000 Yes good recommendation about rust, the only people that actually like rust repair are the ones who gouge you to do it . Funny thing about budgets how they like to increase . It sound like a very good project, for a good price . Are you going to do any mods to the motor ?? Are you familiar with the VG30ET ?? (hehe !!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted August 31, 2000 Share Posted August 31, 2000 Measure the complete car to see if it's square, a body shop or insurance shop should have the diagrams from Mitchell's manual to tell you what measurements should be. ie. front hood corners to opposite rad support and then frame rails to ground (assuming it's set up level) and other measurements (I'm not a whiz on this, just seen it done on my car after a frame 'tweak') Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted August 31, 2000 Share Posted August 31, 2000 When measuring front hood corner to opposite rad support, what type of allowance is there for being not square? My car is within 1/4", (with the frame tweaked allready) should it be perfect? ------------------ Drax240z 1973 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Bayley Posted August 31, 2000 Share Posted August 31, 2000 Horrible deal, not worth your time or money. By the way, just out of curiosity, where "exactly" is this car located? -Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 31, 2000 Share Posted August 31, 2000 I know a little bit about those silly turbo v6 engines..... I have a buncha JWT 450hp stuff among other things, I'm considering putting that stuff on this car once I get it and get it running and whatnot. I dunno, over 400hp in a 2300(or less) pound car... that's almost scary enough to do it! Figure a viper is 10lbs/hp, a c5 vette is 11, this will be 9-10 easily, the jwt stuff will bring it down to 7 lbs/hp or maybe a tad less. Yikes! I think 2300 pounds dry is a realistic weight, isn't it? Perhaps even a tad less? ------------------ Morgan morgan@z31.com http://carfiche.com http://z31.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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