BLOZ UP Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 I've used the awesome-ness that is the Syncrowave 250 DX at work for a while. And I've now been using their smaller EconoTIG for a little while, and they might sell it to me. But now I feel like a newb, because I have no idea how to get a 230v source for it. I don't know jack about single/2/3 phase power requirements, and I've checked wikipedia and a couple of links but am still clueless. Now, before you think I'm going to dig in to my (parent's, ha!) home electric system, I'd like you to know that I'll get an electrician to do it for me, but I'm still interested in finding out WHAT needs to be done, etc. So the EconoTIG is 200/230/460v, single phase machine.... http://www.millerwelds.com/products/tig/econotig/ So getting more than one "phase" shouldn't be a problem. But, Why all the different voltage ratings? And how exactly do they get 230v? Two 120v put together on each side doesn't seem like it would work. Could my 230v dryer source suffice? I doubt it has a big enough amperage rating. And, how exactly does one get more than one phase to their house without getting another seperate line from the plant? Man, I'm clueless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted April 2, 2006 Author Share Posted April 2, 2006 Wow, this link helps out a lot: http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electric/hsehld.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 the 230volt illistration is flat out WRONG on that link! the two hot leads (black p1) (black P2)are correct but the GROUND must be a GROUND(GREEN) vs (WHITE)neutral and MUST be tied to the GROUND SIDE OF THE TERMINAL BOX TO PASS most building code inspections, not the neutral bar, now both will work, but only the correct (black p1) (black P2) (green grnd) will pass inspection in most areas http://www.danielwoodhead.com/pdf/139-172/163.pdf http://leviton.com/pdfs/d-503/d-503T.pdf (pg 20-22) http://techpubs.sgi.com/library/tpl/cgi-bin/getdoc.cgi/0650/bks/SGI_Admin/books/OrOn2_SitePrep/sgi_html/apb.html most dryiers use a 230volt 30 amp circuit, youll need a 230 volt 50 amp circuit according too the owners manual for that welder, youll need a dual pole 50 amp breaker and space to install it and a 3 or 4 wire 8 gauge romex wire to meet or slightly exceed most building code requirements. if your circuit breakers are located in the garage and thats where you choose to install the 50 amp outlet for the welder it will be very easy to hook it up provided you have the room for the new breaker in the main fuze box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TegRacer324 Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 Yup it can easily be installed in your garage or something. Just gotta call up the power company or somebody to wire it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DemonZ Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 The dryer circuit works fine for my single phase MIG 180, compressor, and plasma cutter. Just not all at once. It should work fine for your TIG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted April 2, 2006 Author Share Posted April 2, 2006 thanks for all the info. My main breaker box is on the outside of the house, and there is a smaller one on the inside. The main box has a 60 amp or so for the mini one. So all the guy would need to do is up the breaker for the small box's power in the main box 50 or so amps (assuming the wiring to it is the correct size already for that amperage), correct? Then just add a 50 amp DP breaker in the small box? If the wiring would have to be rerun anyway, then just a 50amp at the main box with a seperate outlet, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted April 3, 2006 Share Posted April 3, 2006 If I were you I would find an electrician buddy and slip him some $$$. It is not hard to do if you know what you are doing. But if you do something stupid you have invalidated your homeowners insurance. You need to make absolutely certain your main box can handle the extra load. There is no shame in not knowing what you are doing, but boy will you be embarassed if you burn your house down. You cannot piggy back a second box off the mini one as you call it. You need to add a new breaker to the main box. Best way to do that is have that breaker feed a subpanel in the garage. That way you will have a breaker in the garage subpanel for the welder, and some room for extra breakers to run a compressor or other high amp tools. Subpanels get wired differently than just an outlet. If you want to do some reading, do a google search on how to wire a hot tub. They take a 50-60 amp 230V circuit too. The web has some pretty simple explanations on how to wire a hot tub. And forget you ever heard about 3 phase power. You won't have that in your home and never will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted April 5, 2006 Author Share Posted April 5, 2006 Cool, thanks. I don't have any plans to do this myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted April 5, 2006 Share Posted April 5, 2006 http://www.passandseymour.com/pdf/U077.pdf http://www.passandseymour.com/pdf/U013-U020.pdf http://www.sigmasystems.com/Techdoc/Tech_Docs/SigmaPowerPlugs.htm http://leviton.com/pdfs/d-503/d-503T.pdf (see page 21) http://www.danielwoodhead.com/pdf/139-172/163.pdf http://techpubs.sgi.com/library/tpl/cgi-...i_html/apb.html btw this may help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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