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Sprak plugs for high CR turbo


Zlovemachine

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Hello guys I really need your help today. I have blown 2 head gaskets running 5 PSI on what I thought was a completely stock setup. I was shock to have found out that the guy who rebuilt my motor put flat top pistons instead of dished when I decided to change the head gasket myself. So I need to know what kind of spark plugs (colder I assume) I should use and what timing (more retard I am guessing) with an 8.5-8.6 compression ratio. I have a t3/t4 type turbo and the z31 ECU and MAF setup.

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I hate people who assume i dont search first!!!!:icon55:

 

Anyway thank you for the info guy:icon14:! i have some more questions.

Is this plug 1 - 2 or more heat ranges from the stock plug?

What gap should i use for that plug and timeing?

Where should i be at with that?

 

It's two heat ranges colder. I'd recommend gapping at .025 to .030".

 

As far as timing, run as much as you can without detonating. Do you have an EGT gauge? When you start needing to retard to stave off detonation, back the timing off until either the detonation goes away or the EGTs get up around 1500 degF, I think that's about as far as you want to go (I usually shoot for mid 1400's)

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Thanks for the info! That is exactly what i was asking, thank you very much! This is what you call help.

 

I think im going to stick with the NGK's, copper is better for the MSD system anyway. Wouldnt two heat ranges be too much, from what i heard each heat range would be for 75-100 HP increace from stock settings.

 

FYI - I did notice that when i bought stock bosch platium plugs (cheap kind) for my car. I did start to hear more knocking at higher RPMs. That was with stock timing (24 degrees) also.

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I think im going to stick with the NGK's' date=' copper is better for the MSD system anyway. Wouldnt two heat ranges be too much, from what i heard each heat range would be for 75-100 HP increace from stock settings.

 

FYI - I did notice that when i bought stock bosch platium plugs (cheap kind) for my car. I did start to hear more knocking at higher RPMs. That was with stock timing (24 degrees) also.[/quote']

 

Normally I would think that one heat range colder (BPR-7ES) would be fine for 15psi or less. However, since you are running higher than expected CRs and are seeing problems (presumably with stock plugs) at ~5psi, going two heat ranges colder might not be a bad idea.

 

The main problem with colder heat ranges is that they foul easier. If you have decent control over your fuel delivery, this shouldn't be that big of a problem.

 

I've not heard that much good about using the platinum plugs with a turbo, so your story doesn't surprise me much...

 

btw... what kind of head gasket were you using? It is a really good idea to be very diligent about torqueing and re-torqueing the head on a fresh gasket. I usually heat cycle the engine once, then retorque after cooling overnight. I repeat this a few more times over the next week or so just to make sure the gasket has settled in nicely. Never blown a gasket.

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I've had problems with platinum plugs gas fouling easier than standard plugs. When you are doing the initial tuning on a new setup with a untested fuel map, I always start with standard BPR6ES. Once I get the fuel map close, I switch to a colder plug if needed. A BPR7ES would be a cold as I would go for 15psi on a stock L28ET long block (7.4:1 CR). BPR6ES is fine for 10-12psi. If you are running 8.5:1 static CR, then you may want to run a BPR8ES at 15psi.

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Thank you guys! this is the good stuff! Now I can buy with confidence!

I know this might sounds stupid and redundant, but how do you know when you need a colder plug?:flamedevi

The other little problem I had which I hope is related to plug heat is my Air/Fuel meter scans back and forth from a lean (red led) to rich (Green- Led) after I have driven the car for a while or after a hard run. Why would this Happen? (or should i start another forum)

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I've had problems with platinum plugs gas fouling easier than standard plugs. When you are doing the initial tuning on a new setup with a untested fuel map, I always start with standard BPR6ES. Once I get the fuel map close, I switch to a colder plug if needed. A BPR7ES would be a cold as I would go for 15psi on a stock L28ET long block (7.4:1 CR). BPR6ES is fine for 10-12psi. If you are running 8.5:1 static CR, then you may want to run a BPR8ES at 15psi.

I have heard nothing but bad things about platinum plugs. Maybe because its a poor conductor. Heard nothing but praises from the uridium(sp?) plugs.

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I haven't had luck with either platinum or irridium plugs. From my experience they seemed to work great until the engine has a little detonation. I personally broke the ceramic insulator from around the electrode on five of the six plugs on one run that experienced a little detionation. I am not talking about engine blowing detionation either, since I have exerienced that mild detonation over 100+ times through the last six years of driving this engine. A good copper plug works great, just replace them a little more often.

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I haven't had luck with either platinum or irridium plugs. From my experience they seemed to work great until the engine has a little detonation. I personally broke the ceramic insulator from around the electrode on five of the six plugs on one run that experienced a little detionation. I am not talking about engine blowing detionation either, since I have exerienced that mild detonation over 100+ times through the last six years of driving this engine. A good copper plug works great, just replace them a little more often.

Huh. I'll keep that in mind when I'm buying plugs.

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Ngk Bpr8es

 

+1

 

I can run 3psi more without changing anything with those plugs. They do make the car run different at low load. I find that adding some timing makes the car run like stock again.

 

Are you editing the eprom in the ecu? If you are I can tell you where to make the changes so that you are aren't effecting anything other than the boosted areas.

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