dr_hunt Posted April 16, 2006 Share Posted April 16, 2006 Here's a link to the pic. '33 dodge half ton p/u coming soon to terrorize the locals! The 350 alcohol motor, th350 and NP208 t case, 10 bolt front, dana 60 rear, 4.10 gears both ends, 39.5x15's all the way around weld 17x15 aluminum wheels. Hope it weighs less than 2000 lb. Going coil over shocks as well. Check out the custom 1.625 tube frame. Cab is mounted, bed is off till we get the rear on Monday. Trans and tcase rebuilt and ready to pick up. Going 4500 stall and hoping I can keep it in high range. http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/s_stuff_184.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hartspank Posted April 16, 2006 Share Posted April 16, 2006 Sweet project. I play in the mud up here in WI with my 86 yota 5:70 gears 40" groundhawgs. do you think the ten bolt will survive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted April 16, 2006 Author Share Posted April 16, 2006 It depends, I'm probably going to put paddles on the back at some point. I'm just hoping that it stays on top of the mud, then I think it'll be alright requiring frequent knucke joint changes. I've got a Dana 60 front, Dana 70 front, but they are so stinking heavy. It's going to be 144 inch wheel base so I should be around 60/40 weight bias, front to rear, we'll see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted April 16, 2006 Share Posted April 16, 2006 is that how long its going to be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted April 16, 2006 Share Posted April 16, 2006 is your front dana 60 a passenger or driver side pumpkin? I have a friend looking for a passenger side pumpkin Dana 60... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Some-Guy Posted April 16, 2006 Share Posted April 16, 2006 wicked we have lots of places to play in the mud up here altho iam more of a hotrod person but damn that thing is goona be cool when its done! I gota 10 bolt down south iam thinking of narrowing and putting it in the Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted April 16, 2006 Author Share Posted April 16, 2006 It's a passenger side dana 60 out of a one ton chevy, has 4.56 gears I got it at an auction for $40 so I'm going to keep it. The dana 70 is also chevy, 4.10's I believe, can't remember. I've got three 10 bolts and I figure that they will work being as light as this is. I can pick up either the front end or rear end with cab and bed on up to my shoulders with a little strain. I figure the frame, cab and bed weigh about 450 lb. I think weights should be motor 500, trans and transfer 300, rear end 250, front end 300. I'm hoping for 1800lb total wet, 2030 with my lard butt. That alcohol 350 was planting about 380rwhp here so that should really work well. I'm going to cut the front of the frame off when I mount the front end tomorrow, I left the frame original pipe length which was 21 feet, which is what you see in the pics. Basically I want the motor as far back in relation to the front axle as possible without changing the original motor position. Here the rules say no set back motors, they don't say you can't move the front end further out. No chain drives, must have transfer case, otherwise I'd run the glide and a chain drive and be lighter still. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hartspank Posted April 17, 2006 Share Posted April 17, 2006 I get it now, its for mud drags. My idea of mud bogging is a little different up here. I think the ten bolt is a great choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted April 17, 2006 Author Share Posted April 17, 2006 They call it mud bogs here but the guys that win make it through the pit. I've seen a couple that were planting some good power, getting good tire speed early and pretty much staying on top of the mud is the trick. The stockers and modifieds are painfull to watch them flog the motors for 15 seconds to 2 minutes or until they don't move anymore. I know I can make enough power, keep it light and be very competitive. They mostly use stock chevy or ford frames, cut out as much of the body as they can and go from there. It seems that they are just to front end heavy and once that front end sinks in the mud, it just pushes mud and has to fight the whole way. The other problem I see is that they have to jack the vehicle up so high to get tire clearance that they are always breaking drivelines cause the driveline angle is all wrong. That is why the frame is 10" deep, I can come off the lower rail for the stock engine mounts and off the upper rail for a midplate. The reason for the 8" drop in the frame front and back is to gain clearance without having to lift the frame, straightens out the driveline angle, gets the lower ladder bar level with the ground. I'll take some more pics once I get the front and rear end mounted so you guys can see what I'm thinking on driveline angle. Looks bitchin' right now with the front axle under it. Driveline angles should be about like a stock 4x4 not lifted. One guy has a S-10 with a 496" BBC and it was pretty impressive. Another guy has a 477" BBC in a datsun pickup with tractor tires and his worked real good, but they don't have a class for tractor tires so he's going to have to go another route. A buddy of mine has a short bed stepside '79 chevy, weighs 3800 lb, has 44's, dana 60 up front, dana 80 in the back, totally gutted, 406sbc and he wins or places most all the time. It's a good roller motor making some good power with my old sportsman 2 heads and a .630 lift solid roller, dual quads. Have you ever tried to pick up a stock GM frame that is just the frame? My god, that thing is so heavy it isn't funny. Build it light, wind it tight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BiltWel Posted April 18, 2006 Share Posted April 18, 2006 Are you going to channel it down over the frame? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted April 18, 2006 Author Share Posted April 18, 2006 No, I don't think so. I'm going to try to keep the structural body parts incase this thing ever gets parted out and sold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted April 20, 2006 Share Posted April 20, 2006 http://videos.streetfire.net/search/mud+bog/0/84E11B29-FF91-4E98-B34E-8C84806B6751.htm is that what its like? LOL at the announcer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BiltWel Posted April 20, 2006 Share Posted April 20, 2006 Good deal on not cutting it up looks like it's a solid cab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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