Alternator/Battery troubles. *pics*

[JaysZ]

so the old one is out... but it is different than the replacement. (both are Hitachi). anyway, the shaft size was different and the pulley was different as well. Pic below.

 

here is what it looks like with the old style pulley (which is what we ended up using since it lines up with the belt better than the other would).

 

this is the new billet pulley that i have. notice that the pulley sits further out, would this still be ok to use?

 

the main problem is this: the battery still doesn't seem to be getting a charge from the alternator. i have an Odyssey PC680, small battery I know, but it has definately proven itself to be strong enough to start the motor. the problem is definately in getting it to charge. what else am I missing? its frustrating having to get a jump each and every time. fusible links?

[getZ]

what kind of voltage are you reading across the battery while the car is running. It should be over 13 volts right after you start it up.

[olie05]

while the car is running it gets reads about 11.5 volts. With the new alternator the gauge reads what the volt meter reads, but before it was reading a completely different number.

 

anyone have wiring diagrams for an internally regulated alternator?

 

btw: those are my legs in the pictures

[fastzcars]

http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=2126&size=big&cat=&si=wiring. The battery gets it's charge from the starter post. Then there's a fusable link that feeds a large white wiring coming out of the voltage regulator to the starter, that could be bad.

 

What is the voltage right at the output of the alternator's white wire connection? Did you bypass the external regulator? If so how did you wire it?

 

Or it could be the connection at the starter or the connection is corroded internally. How about the battery ground? It's located right under the battery tray on the passenger frame rail and is common to be corroded from the battery acid.

 

The above link will show what I'm talking about.

[olie05]

fastzcars, voltage at the alternator was the same as at the battery. There was no external regulator to be found. (we searched) Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the 78's came with internally regulated alternators.

 

thanks for the link!

[fastzcars]

Sorry your right about the internal reg for the 280z, I ASSUMED it was a 240. Well here's Autozones webpage for the almost all years Z wiring. What year is your Z?http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1d/1d/80/0900823d801d1d80.jsp.

[dapiper]

Measure voltage drop from alternator Batt term to pos on battery, should be less that 0.25V or fusible link bad or bad connection at batt or starter.

 

Measure voltage drop from alt ground to batter neg term; should be less than 0.15 V, otherwise clean all chassis grounds from harness.

[getZ]

I suspect something is wrong with the regulator.

 

I had a similar problem with my 81 turbo motor in my 72, but I landed up putting a small block chevy in and the problem went away. Well okay, obviously I didn't put the engine in to fix an electronic problem. It was just something I decided to do.

 

The alternator I have now is a one wire with an internal regulator and the rest of the stuff is still the same, fused link, wiring, etc