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Wheel Bearing Spacer Bushing Question


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What exactly is that for? I understand its a spacer, Im guessing to hold a true space between the outer and inner bearing. But when you install the outer wheel bearing on the stub shaft and it bottoms out against the wheel mount plate, if you drop on the spacer it doesnt allow the inner bearing to press all the way onto the machined seat area.

i noticed that i dident have full thread count when i put on my 280zxt axel companion flanges when i had the spacer installed.. I removed the spacer, and the inner bearing now drops in farther and bottoms out on the machined lip in the strut housing...is it a good idea to run without the spacer? does it actually do anything? it seems to fit the companion flange better without them.

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Look on the side of the casting on your rear strut, opposite the side where the two holes are drilled to mount the e-brake bracket. You'll see a single letter stamped in the casting. Its typically a "B" but sometimes you'll see an "A" or a "C". That letter must match the letter stamped into the side of the spacer used in the hub.

 

Its OK if the inner bearing doesn't bottom in the machined section of the hub. When torquing the stub axle lock nut down, torque it to 150 ft. lbs. first and check to see how freely the stub axle spins. The FSM says preload as measured by pulling on one of the lug studs should be 28.7 ounces of pull or less and axle shaft end play should be between 0 and .0057 inches. Tighten or loosen the stub axle lock nut to hit these numbers.

 

I just assembled a set of rear struts and the final torque value for one was 147 ft. lbs. and the other was 190 ft. lbs.

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