dosquattro Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 Well I finally got off my *** and finally started installing my Tokico Illumina strut and spring combo. The fronts went on without a hitch but did anyone else who has this kit not even have to compress their spring at all and actually had some slack after it was fully assembled? I started on the rears and was fearing that the most after all the spindle pin horror stories I heard. So I was thinking there's gotta be a way around that. So I was able to get the it installed without removing the axle from the hub and not having to deal with the spindle pin which was a pretty big relief. It's a WI 75 280 so it's got it's fair share of rust. Since I'm installing a ES bushing kit(cringes and shakes) I unbolted the rear lca and sway bar which allowed me enough room to slide the insert and spring up into shock tower and slide the shaft of the strut up through the mounting plate on the shock tower and place the spacer down into the housing and then just lower it all back down into housing and worked perfectly. Then I put a jack under the spindle and raise the whole setup and tighten down the nut for the strut shaft to compress the strut and spring. As for the the bushing.....*wipes away tears* I'm debating on installing whatever ones I haven't install yet. I installed the moustache bar bushings, the rear side of the rear lca up by the diff and the sway bar bushing for the mount and the endlink. The bolt that holds the spindle pin snapped and I tried drill out the rest and it's still not budging. So that's just gonna stay the way it is. I'll just finish installing the other spring and strut and then call it a day. I've torched the sleeves and got a pipe wrench and they still don't even budge. I've taken a air hammer to them and nothing. The front lca's I have to cut the bushing sleeve and pound them out. The rears bushing sleeves are another story and have rusted right to the control arms. So I just cleaned them off and just put the new bushings right over the old sleeves. This bushing kit is for the birds!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CruxGNZ Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 I just did this to a buddies car on Tuesday. Full suspension change to Tokico and polyurethane bushings. There is some slack in the springs, don't worry about it. This will only be a problem if you decide to get your Z airborn. Just make sure you have the springs seated in the spring hat when you sit the car back on the ground. The full Energy Suspension kit isn't that bad. I've done a half dozen of them now. A press makes installing the Energy Suspension kit an easy affair. Although, using the MAPPS torch to burn out the bushings is quite fun. You do know the pin that holds the spindle pin in is tapered, right? If you have any questions, give me a jingle on my cell, 414-975-7168. I was up in your area last weekend. I could have stopped by to give ya a hand for a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dosquattro Posted May 19, 2006 Author Share Posted May 19, 2006 Hell I've didn't even see what the pin looks like. I bypassed all that stuff. The spring are all seated correctly but just wanted to know if other people had this situation. Thanks I don't feel so bad now like I got some bad stuff or something. As for the bushings, our maintenance guy at work made me a tool to maybe help taking out the bushings and sleeves so I'll give it whirl tomorrow and see if it works or if I can throw it back at him and tell to try again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 This ought to help: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension.htm. Read the whole thing, and you can do the whole job. Actually just realized that doesn't include info about the spindle pin puller. You can read this thread for that info: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=84230. There is a guy on classiczcars.com who makes them, I just bought all the parts from him, and I can vouch for his stuff. He uses a 5/8" threaded rod instead of the usual 12mm, but I can't get onto their website so you'll have to go there and search for it if you want to buy one from him. On my own project I used the Hybrid Z loaner tool, don't know if it's still going around or what. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 mat, you may want to edit out your #, for spam bots and such. me? no, not me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CruxGNZ Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 I've offered my number here in the forums a few times in the past and never got unwanted calls. *hopes one of you guys don't call me at 3 in the morning trying to be funny* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dosquattro Posted May 19, 2006 Author Share Posted May 19, 2006 That "z tech tip" link was pretty helpful with all the pics and everything. I was just saying that I didn't need to deal with the spindle pin or unbolt the 1/2 shafts to install my struts and springs. Unbolting the 1/2 shaft hubs was my idea at first but even after hitting it with a torch the bolts still would break loose and I didn't feel like rounding off the nuts. I already snapped one of the bolts for the front diff mount and had to drill it out and run a long bolt nut and washer up into the interior through the floor. Thank god it didn't come out under one of the mounts for the roll and I wouldn't of been able to get to it. Also how noisy is the ES kit once it's installed? I'm not worried just curious? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 If you use the grease included in the kit it's not noisy at all. I installed the Tokico spring and strut kit as well and the rear springs are loose when the suspension is at full droop, the fronts are snug but I was able to install them without using a spring compressor. I used tie-wraps on the rears to keep them in place when I jack up the car. As for installing part of the kit and leaving the rest, I wouldn't. Skipping the spindle pin bushings might be OK but if you do any of the LCA bushings I'd do them all. Would make for some very strange suspension dynamics to have some urethane and some rubber bushings. Seems to me if there is that much rust in those suspension parts it might be time to just pull it all apart and replace most of the pieces and all the bolts. No matter what you decide to do the spindle pins are a major pain to get out, mine were in decent shape, very little rust and I destroyed them in the removal process. Fortunately they're available from several parts suppilers and only cost about $25.00 each. Once the pins are removed getting the strut reattached to the hub assembly when the ES bushings are installed is no picnic either. Wheelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 Once the pins are removed getting the strut reattached to the hub assembly when the ES bushings are installed is no picnic either. It is a pain, I used a couple c-clamps to mash the bushings down, then hammered the strut housing in between them. I just found a trick for this on zhome.com which is much better and uses the spindle pin tool to spread the end of the control arm. I guess it's been known for a while, but new to me. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/SpindlePinTool.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dosquattro Posted May 19, 2006 Author Share Posted May 19, 2006 Link doesn't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 Try again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted May 20, 2006 Share Posted May 20, 2006 I used a couple of real thin paint scrapers as wedges to slip the hub housing in between the ends of the control arm. I also used a tie-down strap with the ratcheting tensioner to give more leverage when trying to force the hub assembly into place. You just need to get creative. Wheelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbonat240 Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 (edited) If you need that much force to squeeze the hub housing back between the poly bushings doesn't it create some friction/ stiction in the assembly ? Old thread revival.... at least you can see that I use the search function! Edited May 12, 2012 by turbonat240 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beermanpete Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 If you need that much force to squeeze the hub housing back between the poly bushings doesn't it create some friction/ stiction in the assembly ? Old thread revival.... at least you can see that I use the search function! It is tough to get those bugger is there but some of it is due to the angle. Once the strut is in the arm it is not as tight as it seems to be going in. Anyhow, it needs to be a close fit to control the end play properly the strut does not move back and forth due to the accelration and braking loads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 (edited) If you need that much force to squeeze the hub housing back between the poly bushings doesn't it create some friction/ stiction in the assembly ? Old thread revival.... at least you can see that I use the search function! Lots of stiction in poly bushings. If you use the spreader I linked to, then you won't have to fight to get the strut in there. Once you get it in when you tighten the spindle pin nuts it draws everything back together. You can sand down the bushings until they aren't so much longer than the sleeves and even add zerk fittings on the outers so that you can grease the bushings, but in the end, poly bushings are going to cause a lot of stiction. Edited May 12, 2012 by JMortensen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 Sand em down till they fit. Nothing special about poly. It is just basically plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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