dosquattro

I guess it matters how you want to mount the flares be it rivet,bolts or mold 'em on. I had bondo in some spots along the lip and I had to get longer rivets and washers to use on the back side. Otherwise it was just pulling through the bondo. This way the rear of the rivet would grab onto washer instead of just pull through the bondo being it had nothing to hold onto.

Napa. You just have to ask for them.

http://www.speedpartz.com/dwarf_driveshaftadapter.htm This should also help you out if not just give you a chubby from some of the builds. http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=10&sid=ef19067cd92ee264624322f0969459fa

I think no matter if you used two bike engine, the Z rolling shelling is a bit too heavy. Not to mention the weight of the fabrication to get the second engine in and the addition weight of whatever your gonna use to transfer the power to the wheels. A smaller car and a single engine would be fine. I still want to do like a smaller rwd import and then a bigger bike engine like a R1 or a blackbird engine. Maybe like a TE27 rolla. I wouldn't mind keeping it fully carb'd cause then you'd only have to worry about mounting the engine in there and getting the driveshaft adjusted and just a little wiring. Then bump the fuel pressure down as usually carb bikes gravity feed from the tank. Damn I gotta find that site that sold that adapter. Oh don't forget you gotta figure out something for reverse. Most bike are flintstone powered when it comes to part. lol. I think one of the big differential companies make a unit that goes inline between the driveshaft. A bit pricey but atleast you can pull out of your driveway without pushing your sweet ride onto the street. The coolness factor kinda loses it's coolness factory from that. Hahahah. "Dude check out my new project. It's got a hayabusa engine in it and it tears a5s. Help me push it on the street so we can take it for a spin."

I actually received a pm from a guy on here like 30 miles from me actually planning to do the swap and was asking me questions about it. So maybe he can pickup where I left off.

S600's are chain driven. Not to mention the popular honda engines B/H/D are spin backwards compared to most engines so you'd have a pretty fast car in reverse trying to adapter a normal RWD trans onto it. You'd be like Burt Reynolds in Smokey & The Bandit when he was driving in reverse on the highway. lol. Not to mention the size of a S600 is crazy to begin with. I'd guess your best bet would be a bike engine. But the stock engine is pretty amazing for what it is. Check this out http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/video/video_player.shtml?vid=204774

http://www.situne.no/index.php?id=3&carid=1 http://www.psiman.net/geo1.htm I had a link for the maker of the adapter that situne to bolt a driveshaft right up to the bike tranny.

I know mounts could be trick but unless you want nonsolid mounts with some rubber in them. It should be all that bad. Just have your engine positioned where you want it and bust out some steel and a welder. An old friend of mine made his mount but they were solid as he didn't want to spend the cash on aftermarket mount to put a B18A into his CRX. Just put the axles into the tranny and the hubs and went to town. They weren't the prettiest but held together fine even with a boosted setup. Custom CV's are expensive as hell. Thedriveshaftshop.com quote me at 550 for a set of custom axles for an old car and that was sending them the parts. They just cut some splines onto a new shaft and assemble it. And that's just saying you got your measurements and whatnot right. Not to sure how good welded CV shafts would hold up if you wanted to do to go ghetto fabulous. Hahahahh

I think a FWD engine would envolve alot more fab'n then a rwd swap would. Custom cv joints compared to one driveshaft. Mounts would be alot more complicated then just two motor mounts and a tranny mount. Not saying that fabrication for a rwd setup can't be complicated but just imagine it requiring more headscratching. lol.

Well I received a pm about this project. Well it's still a project, but for someone else. With the addition of my son at the end of this past August I just didn't have the time nor did I want to be missing these early months out in the garage wrenching away. I can always get another Z but these times I can't get back or watch in some video and get the same effect out of them. I sold my GVR4 also to get something newer and wound up in a car I missed muched after I sold it.... A 96 Volvo 850R. I still have love for Datsuns but maybe I'll find another when I can enjoy it with my son and teach him a thing. Setting him in a high chair in my garage wasn't what I had in mind either. lol. The Z though went to another HybridZ member so it's still here.

I had to make my own brackets cause I bought a Corbeau seat bracket to mount my Buddy Club bucket into my 280Z. I'm ony 5'5" and with the bracket and then a set of sliders. My head was just an inch or two from the roof. So just used the side mount backets and mounted them straight to the floor mounts. Yeah my seat isn't adjustable but it was the only way I could get it low enough so the steering wheel wouldn't be rubbing against my legs or I wasn't hitting my head on the roof.

Either grind them off or just drill them out.

I don't think the weight loss in the plate would be more beneficial then what welding in a steel pan would give back some rigidity to your already flimsy 35 year old chassis. Just my .02.

Hugh runs a Greddy intake manifold with a Q45 throttle bodybut on a S13 redtop. He's a member here but isn't too active though.

I don't feel so bad about my 280Z after seeing these. lol.

Hugh on here has just a completely stock DET swap and walks over alot of stuff with the stock T25. Just a couple of days ago he walked past a modded NSX and was bumper to bumper with a 911 twin turbo until 4th gear and then it finally started slowly pulling away. Only thing that is done to it is running a standalone. I say get the EVO 16G and sell it and use that toward the swap. You'd be surprise what those things go for. As for the EVO 16G, be it from a USDM Evo or the older 16G from the Evo3's. They are pretty different. The exhaust housing is a twin scroll unit in the newer 16G and the flange is totally screwy looking. The older 16G from the EVO 3's "look" like the 14B's from our DSM 4G63's. I say stick with the stock T25 and actually try it out before looking for something bigger and better. Maybe if Hugh see's this he can chime in.

What are you gonna use for a manifold cause you'll have to custom make one as the flanges are different. I'd say find a S14 GTIR turbo. Bolt right on and a nice upgrade over the tiny stock T25.

I currently drive a 92 GVR4 so that's one reason I went with a 4G not to mention it's tough as nails and you can get power from it by just looking at it. I also with it as it's alittle cheaper then doing a SR swap as 4G longblocks can be found cheap and easily down at the local boneyard.

I've actually already have the intake manifold covered. Picked up a mod'd manifold that another guy used on his rwd setup 4G in a Starion. Everything with this had been to a one finger crawl with my son that was born 8/29 and my build budget has seen better days. I've been reading up on 1UF-ZE's also. They sound too good to be true but using a manual tranny seem like more work as the only bell housing makers is a place in Australia. I've got my harness pretty much all done but not sure how I'm gonna fit the harness though the exist harness hole in the firewall. As there's more meat to the 4G harness then the L28's harness. Where there's a will...there's a way though!

I'm still waiting to buy my bell housing and tranny. I have the long block, all electronics and a modified intake manifold. I just had my son so the project will be progressing a little slower then before. Not to mention without the tranny and bell housing, I can't mount the engine.

I'd go Megasquirt before I'd go AEM EMS. I'm just gonna run the stock electronics for right now to keep things simple and cheap. I scored a complete uncut engine harness and all sensors for 140. I just need the larger stuff now like the W58 tranny and bell housing as I have everything else now. Just got my modified intake manifold today! My son is ready to pop out any day now so the project is gonna slow down more then it is now for alittle bit. Not to mention my OT spending money I usually buy all my parts with is going towards my little vacation to the Classic Japanese car show in Long Beach in October. Yeeeaaah!

I actually got one of those for my old Volvo 850 Turbo. Looks like a decent size in the pictures and actually on the car. Though when I got it I had to break out a magnify glass cause it was so small. I still stuck it on but was stupid small. On the rear of a Z I think it would look silly and tacky. Sorry man. Just giving you my honest opinion as I actually the same one you listed above.

It was just for shits and giggles basically. Just to see what it'll look like. I'm not actually making mounts right now without the tranny. That would be stupid on my part to start doing that. I did found some stuff to relocated the thermostat housing to the front of the engine and the alternator relocation kit. It looks really simple so I'm most likely just gonna make them myself instead of paying 125 for the alternator kit and the thermostat kit would probably take me a whole 30 minutes to make.

Just curious on what people did when they went to an engine that used a cable activated throttle body instead of the linkage the L series use? Mod the pedal or get one from another car?

The dash in the Z is one thing I really like about the car. The S13's dash just looks blah...kinda like any other 90's car. To each his own I guess.