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I might have screwed up..


Guest ericw

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Guest ericw

I was going to experiment, using the hood of my car, with the pro-foam roller method. (I don't know if anyones discussed that on here. Anyway, someone told me I should sand it down to metal so thats what I started doing. It took forever so I started doing some more research on the forums and found out that sanding down to factory primer seems to be the best method. Now that I have areas of bare metal and areas of sanded factory paint/primer what should I do? Again I'm using the foam roller method with some rustoleum-type paint. I wanted a cheap paint job to last a few (2-3) years until I'm out of college and have a decent income for a real paint job, I just don't want to cause myself any problems with this bare metal issue. This paint says it can be painted directly over bare metal w/o primer. Any opinions?

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OK... before folks flame me please read my post carefully. I am a former paint and body guy, 25 years experience, so I know what I'm talking about. Under most circumstances I would never recomend top coating over bare metal. But because the poster states

...with the pro-foam roller method.

I assume he has no compressor or spray capabilities. Because most spray can primer is right next to useless and he states

...I'm using ...some rustoleum-type paint...This paint says it can be painted directly over bare metal w/o primer

I'm going to say that I think it would be OK to paint over the bare metal. When I'm painting small parts ect. I use rustoleum specifically because it is actually made to spray over bare metal.

Now.. there are some decent spray can primers, but you have to go to the automotive paint supply house to get them. (and a can of it will probably cost more then you paid for the rustoleum type paint) The stuff you can buy at the part store or home depot is worthless.

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I'm currently doing the same project Ericw. It's fine if you have metal and primer. Just as long as it's a smooth transition. If it's bumpy, obviously you're going to see where the primer was. And like he said above me, rustoleum is made for bare metal.

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I am rolling paint on my car and you can see the progress in my worklog. I took the entire roof to bare metal and it has around 5-6 coats with a 2in. wide roller. It has not chipped yet on the roof where I painted a month ago but other places where I used a different consistany it has chipped a little.

bare metal all the way with the rustoleum...

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There is quite a long thread on the roller method, and olderthanme's thread has some great details as well, so do a search and read read read. One thing you'll find, is that with any paint job, the paint only looks as good as your prep. If you have part primer and part bare metal, I would take it down so that all of it is bare. Using an automotive spray primer will work, but if you've never painted before, you're going to have to work pretty hard to get it even.

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I assumed he had already found roller method posts since he is already at the point of sanding it down.

 

But just in case anybody else is interested here is the original post at a MOPAR forum which somebody here at HybridZ found and posted about a while ago:

 

Pages 1-43:

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

 

But then the stupid MOPAR forum guys archived the thread so it is continued here at page 44:

 

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2655425&an=0&page=0#Post2655425

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  • 2 weeks later...

I know the automotive/general use primer from say Autozone sucks, but if you can use rustoleum paints straight on metal, then you would think that rustoleum primer would be ok for light fill, smoothing, etc. I have used it on some areas without any problems. My Z prefers the rustoleum semi-flat black:)

 

what do you think mom's z?

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  • 1 year later...

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