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How much for a LT1 conversion?


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

I've been thinking about getting a 240Z & dropping an LT1 like the one I have in my firebird in it. How much on average does the conversion cost? Is there a lot of custom fabbing involved or cn you buy the parts in a kit? Thanks a lot for the info!!

 

Stephen Moretti

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Stephen,

 

Welcome aboard! You ask a very tough question because really the sky is the limit on conversions be it engines, transmission or brakes let alone the body or interior. But, I will tell you what I have spent so far and I'm sure others members will reply too.

 

Engine - 95LT1 (used, but in excellent shape including all accessories and computer)

$2500

Transmission - 96T56 ( used, " ")

$1500

Clutch - (New Centerforce)

$500

LSD Differential - Used, I'm hoping its ok but I don't know

$400

Axles CV - ( used, good shape)

$100

Rear Disk Brakes Conversion - (used, 92 300ZX but in great shape)

$150

Spot Calipers PB

$110

Gas tank ( Most people use the original or use a fuel cell - trying something different)

$100

5 lug hubs and machine work

$100

New urethane bushings, struts and camber plates plus coilovers

$1000

Rims and Tires (Rims are on order - These are going to be real cool! A secret for now - having some fun)

$1,300

JTR conversion kit (I have not purchased this yet and debating if I will. I'm designing my own engine mount system because I don't like the engine being cantilevered on the mounts. Most people use this kit. I may just use bits and pieces)

$300

JTR books - (highly recommend and read it several times)

$30

 

Total $8,090 to date - good god have I spent that much so far!

 

I figure another $1000.00 to cover the front brakes and miscellaneous parts. So I'm up to $9,000 and in my case my Z's body and paint is in good shape but add another $4-5 thousand for a quality paint job and if rust is present add a few more thousand. That's way its imperative to find a rust free Z as a foundation before you begin. I can't imagine what other members have spent in time and money fixing rust. It will stop you from ever beginning you project. Well, there you go, I hope this helps some.

 

Danno74Z

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Guest Anonymous

Welcome Stephen!

 

Like Danno said the sky is the limit on how far you can go with these things. Some have over $25K invested (the people that don't understand say "wasted") in these cars, but if you look at it strictly from a performance issue, you really can't beat it for the money. Done properly your Z will make your firebird feel flike a yugo in comparison. Please buy and read the JTR (Jags That Run) book on the Z conversion. I believe everyone here will agree that is the very first purchase you should make. Whether you use their kit or fabricate your own is up to you. Seeing as how you are from AZ, locating a rust free Z should be alot easier as compared to other places around the US. I bought mine from a guy here in Albuquerque. It already had the conversion in it. Everything else is stock in it, so I have to start my upgrade/mods from there. I highly suggest that if you decide you want big power 300hp and more IMHO, you think about stiffening the chassis...roll bar, cage, frame connectors and such. The torque on these engines could turn you nicely finsihed Z into an unsalted pretzel. Check the archives of this site as well for it has a wealth of information on different topics, many related to the LT1 mods. The search feature is very handy, heh kept me up alot when I first found this site. Hope this gives you an idea of what's involved. Good luck!

 

------------------

Chris

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Hrm, I've never added up my costs smile.gif I agree that the JTR book is first and foremost on th elist before you even buy a car! I'd also consider the TPITBI swap book they sell. www.jagsthatrun.com BTW.

 

So far I've got liek $4600 in my motor, $1700 in my trans, $300 in my clutch, $300 in my distributor, probably about $1200 in brakes, and I'll have another grand in wheelstires if not more. Purchase price on car was $6K in VERY good shape. I've added 'glass bumpers and hood so tack on about $2K with the paint work, parts prices, and shipping. Oh yeah, $1K in a cage too. Ouch, that stings! About another grand and I shoudl be ready to roll - thankfully I've done this over time smile.gif Oh, and let's not talk about the $3K I sunk into a car that I ended up using for parts and then giving to Mikelly for $100 (*sob*). That's what happens when you're not patient trying to find a rust free car in VERY good shape. I stopped working on that car when I found out what bodywork and paint were going to cost - $5K to START with!

 

So, but the JTR book, find a GOOD car that needs NO bodywork. Interior isn't that big a deal as that stuff can be found used. Figure the motor and trans prices are a must and you'll want brakes real soon afterwards. If you do an LT1 with EFI make sure you reseaech that cost as EFI has some quirks of it's own to consider.

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Not sure about an Lt1, because I didn't do one, but I have seen complete drivetrains from F-bodied 93-98 cars sell complete with wiring harness and all accessories for about $3000. So if you take that into account, realistically you should have about 8K in it when you are done, if you include brakes, wheels and tires, suspension...

 

If you want to do a bone stock kinda swap, you could get by for about $5000, but the car won't handle well, and the brakes will not be up to the task. Remember, when you do one of these things, not much will swap over...you have to buy all your accesseries, JTR kit alone runs about $350, and the drive shaft... thats another $200-300... All these little things add up!

 

I have a BUNCH of reciepts and probably hit the $25,000 mark, but I also offset everything by selling parts I pulled off the car.. I have made $3500 in parts sales this year.

 

And Jim, I advised against buying that particular car. I wouldn't have given $900 for the whole car in the shape you bought it in.

 

Not knocking Jim, but we can all use his mistake as a lesson. Do not get to excited and settle for something substandard to build you project on. That 72 240 would make a great bargain for someone who can fabricate, so selling it to someone who has the time and talent to bring it back to life, that would be perfect. But Jim doesn't have a welder and Jim doesn't have the ability to do much of the body work himself.... That drives the price through the roof. Search and find the ideal candidate for your specific abilities.

 

Mike

 

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http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

 

[This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited February 28, 2001).]

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Guest Anonymous

Those numbers sound like real numbers. I havn't tallied all my purchases lately, but know I'll have 5.5 grand into the conversion and thats fairly stock and carburated!Associated parts needed to run 'crate' motors (i.e. manifolds, headers, distributor, alternator, water pump, brackets, fittings etc.) even using some stuff from a dismantler adds up REAL quick.

Injected assuming you get EVERYTHING which is how most are sold, probably 5 grand up if you have to convert the fuel system to larger lines and return lines (likely). The wiring harness is usually a pretty good hit.

I hope this gives you an idea what your looking at cost wise. And thats just to get it in the car and running, changing rear ends to R200, upgraded brakes, etc etc.. it goes on and on. It ain't cheap, but it'll be the fastest car you can have for under 10-15 grand! smile.gif

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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