MIBPreacher Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 1987 Nissan 300ZX 2+2 Automatic Ttops GLL First problem, Taurus fan turned on, and my alternator went out. First solution, 92 Maxima 90amp alternator installed. Works great. Second problem, Car was running fine, then died. Then try to crank and it turns over but doesnt kick in and start running. Items replaced and checked. The trio I started with first, Air, Fuel, Spark. I noticed that my fuel idiot light was not on when I turn the ignition to start, and since my gas gauge itself is faulty, I pulled the sender to see if I had fuel in my tank. I did, about 2 inches deep. I then broke my sender by accident so I went to pick n pull and pulled another and cleaned it up and wow, I have never seen my "little" gauge work before! Put that all back together. Gauge works good, but car still doesnt start, just keeps rotating. I pulled the hose off of the fuel filter since I couldnt feel the patter feeling in the hose while my son was cranking it for me. After removing it I decided to turn the key to start. Need I try and describe the gasoline fountain that was shooting into the sky, I put that back on and tightened it back up. I conclude that I have fuel. I took my test light and with the key in the on position, I checked the coil and I got my test light to light up when contacting the positive lead so I tried the other end by unplugging the coil wire off of the distributer and trying to crank it to see if it lights up the test light, it didnt. I replaced the coil with a new one, still didnt work. I installed a new cap and rotor button, and I have recently done the plugs and the wires still looked good. I would have replaced the wires, but they were out of stock in my area. This is my daily driver and i am very stuck at the moment. I checked the fusible links in the engine compartment, I found one that was for the battery on the far right that appeared burnt a little, while I was at the junk yard, I pulled a newer looking one and installed that also. Still no start. I checked every fuse, pulling it out and reseating it. Still no start. This all happened seconds after touching the CHTS and the Coolant temp sensor, since mine is on the fritz. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Okimoto Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 Do you get spark whilst cranking the car? i.e., holding the high tension end towards ground and looking for a spark? I know on the L block, the temp sensor is near the distro wire and knocking one out will tug the other out. is there gas on the plugs? If not, are the injectors firing? (noid light maybe?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MIBPreacher Posted June 28, 2006 Author Share Posted June 28, 2006 Speaking hypothetically, if I do get spark, I was thinking fuel pressure regulator possibility as I do now recall also not smelling any fuel... If I dont get spark and I have replaced the coil and the lead is hot. What then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twizted Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 I believe that model had a recall on the injectors. While replaceing them they switched it over to batch fire. Call your local Nissan dealer with your VIN to check. I was amazed when I worked for one ,as a warranty/recall officer, at the amount of "out-dated" Nissans that had outstanding recalls. One more suggestion: Is the rotor button turning, meaning is the timing belt broke? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MIBPreacher Posted June 29, 2006 Author Share Posted June 29, 2006 I had called Nissan when I first got it because I read about the recall, they told me mine was already done, as I figured because my injector wiring is not wrapped up anymore and not in its original location along the plenum. When I went to install the rotor, the bolt was facing the intake so I used the key to turn the rotor by "keying" the ignition a couple of times. A member on Z31 said for me to unplug the negative cable for a few minutes and try it again, something about touching the CHTS I might have touched the distributer wire and that he found that in the FSM. I will give it a shot, I have nothing else to lose. What is really frustrating is that I love my car, I got it with a bad emergency brake, bad fuel gauge, no stereo, crack in the windshield, missing miscellaneous interior parts like the entire back seat. So far all I really have left is the windshield and I cant drive my car.....ARRGH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 I say pull the high tension lead and lay it on a ground to see if your getting spark while cranking. then move on to see if the injectors are opening. Listen while cranking to hear the injectors click. Always check for loose connections, and that fusible link you got at the junkyard sounds sketchy... You may want to replace that. 1/2 the time its something rediculously simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MIBPreacher Posted June 29, 2006 Author Share Posted June 29, 2006 This is my daily driver and i am very stuck at the moment. I checked the fusible links in the engine compartment' date=' I found one that was for the battery on the far right that appeared burnt a little, while I was at the junk yard, I pulled a newer looking one and installed that also. [/quote'] Just to clarify above, I smelled a burning smell when my alternator went out. When I checked the fusible links today in my car, my battery link appeared burnt and cracked. While at the junk yard I found one that looked really nice, they gave it to me for free and I installed that one. I think it looks like above I found a used burnt one and put it in my car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 did you test the link before putting it in? Does the engine just spin with no fire at all or does it kick a little? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MIBPreacher Posted June 29, 2006 Author Share Posted June 29, 2006 The engine just spins and spins, no sputter, no cough, no backfire, no fuel smell, battery is new and tested good, connections tight. Was idling good, then after I checked the CHTS to see if the subharness was on tight, and the coolant temp sensor to see if I had a good connection, a few seconds later, it just cut out and wont kick in anymore, just rotate rotate rotate... I was reading about a power solenoid just above the coil...gonna check that out too. Tomorrows plan includes taking the coil back if I can see a spark on the old one. 30 bucks on that one. I then am going to pull the negative cable and put it back on after a few minutes and try it again. From there, I dont know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MIBPreacher Posted June 29, 2006 Author Share Posted June 29, 2006 I got home tonight, had my son try and turn it over while I had a spark plug wire pulled, I held it pretty close and with it being black outside, I figured I should be able to see it pretty clearly. Nothing. I dont think I am getting spark. I am wondering if there is anything preprogrammed into the car where the computer will keep the ignition from working until you fix something? I even tried undoing the negative cable for a couple minutes and then putting it back and still no start. Ok anyone have any ideas on no spark issues? I am going to start searching now. Thanks everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MIBPreacher Posted June 29, 2006 Author Share Posted June 29, 2006 Last night I read some posts about people having problems with "NO SPARK" issue and when they replaced the Dizzy with another one, it started right up. Interesting... Well, I headed back to pick n pull this morning so I could do a favor for a club member from 3ZC in WA, they had no Z31's in the junkyards around his town. I pulled the part he needed and gonna mail it to him, anyways, I was pulling his part and I saw an old 84 rusty dizzy with the cap on it still, I took it out and thought hey what the heck. I went to another model, an 86 and MAN WHAT A SCORE! I found a nice shiny Dizzy and the metal tag on it said "Nissan Remanufactured Distributer", WOW, I pulled that one and put the old one in its spot. This thing looked less then a year old. I took it the register after I was done "shopping" and guess how much they charged me? $ 29.99 plus 5.99 core charge! It had the new CAS and the new subharness attached to it. Just to show you how much I saved,,,NAPA sells these 2 items seperately, each for 239.99! Thats 480.00 plus overnight shipping. Man God is good... I put it in as soon as I got home, and after some fiddling with it, my car just purrs....oh I like it like that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twizted Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 Woot, Congrats!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MIBPreacher Posted July 1, 2006 Author Share Posted July 1, 2006 I think my timing is wrong, does anyone know how to adjust the timing without a timing light? When I put my distributer back in, I tried to make sure it was in the same spot, initially it wasnt because it wouldnt kick in, but I could tell now it was trying. After fiddling with it somemore, engine started right up and ran smooth. It idled kind of low about 750 in Neutral, and in D, it was about the same, I am used to about 1200 and when I put it in drive, it would drop down to 800. I chalked this up to the timing being changed... Then madness happened... I was driving down the road, went to stop at the light and the rpms just dropped. It would kick over but the rps were almost at the floor. I gave it some gas and it didnt affect it at all. I ended up pulling into Speedway and spent 5 minutes adjusting the TPS and after severe bogging, I was able to rev it up, I put it in D and raced home as fast as I could. I couldnt maintain idle at all if I didnt keep the gas pedal down while braking for stops and shifting in Neutral. So much for happy happy joy time. When you take the upper timing cover off, is the pulleys on top, do they fluctuate in and out about 1/4" while the engine is running? I noticed that when at 200rpm, I heard tapping in the timing cover so I took it off and started it back up and saw under low RPM's the belt near the FPR was vibrating. Once again, please someone read this and offer up some wisdom... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shift Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 not familiar with the nissan v6, but check if the egr valve is stuck. Th dizzy mount bolt should let you adjust the amount of timing. With the housing bolts loose and the engine running, rotate the housing until its run well. On the L6 there is a screw on the TB that you can adjust to adjust for idle speed, there might be the same thing for the v6. Don't know about the FPR, maybe its suppose to double as a fuel dampener. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.