Twizted

Isn't that a Zonda?

I'm going thru the same issue with mine. It had also sat for 2 years. My injectors were also sticking along with the fuel pump and had a clogged fuel filter. I occasionally have to jump start the fuel pump with a booster box to get it to "wake up" for a testing session then it'll work fine the rest of the day. Fuel filter was really restrictive so that was changed. The injectors were also not working so I jump started them as well. I just used my booster box with a paper clip (I know it's not the safest) and supplied power till they were all clicking and working again. It now runs but very low pressure. I'm checking the tank and possibly the regulator.

That happened to a friend of mine once. He had dropped a small screw into the head when he was changing the valve cover gasket. It bounced around between different cylinders before being discharge out the exhaust. We didn't think that was the cause until we couldn't find that one screw, then it dawned on us. We did find the screw later in the muffler. Just a thought.

Turbo or NA? What year ECU are you using? My '82 Turbo says 8* on my hood sticker. But I know that it does vary depending on certain variables.

There was a recall on Maxima's for coils and reprogram the ECM. I believe your year may have been part of it. Although you mention you did that already. The TPS is a good idea, I've had symptoms like yours on my Z and changing that seemed to work. Have you been able to locate the Factory TSB's online?

Afew years ago at my local dragstrip I seen a 280z powered by a L(31)ET using SDS. It was a daily driver complete with his briefcase and rather large speaker box. He ran 12's and he seemed like that was the norm and never worried about electronic issues. I'll be going with Megasquirt or SDS when I'm ready to upgrade.

One problem with high-flow radiators and removing the T-Stat is TOO much flow. The watermix will not be in the radiator long enough to cool so then you send the hot water back into the engine to be super-heated. Increased flow is good and does help but just remember that there is a point where it becuase less effective and then harmful.

I think he was refering to the "idiot" lights.

I would get away from stock wiring. There have been numerous situations resolved by direct wiring and puting in your own relay. I know that mechanics (especially Nissan ones) try to go back to factory whenever they have no freakin clue. Their logic, well if it worked once it'll work again... The factory pump is a decent unit tho, just not a very good choice when your going to be doing upgrades. How are your injectors? And what PSI are you running both before warmup and after? Good luck

I had put mine before the turbo with a nozzle pointed in that direction. It seemed to help the turbo stayed spooled. Although I have gone thru turbos every other oil change so it may not be the most reliable. But I'm sure that that wasn't caused my turbo failures. 30+ boost is what I feel the culprit was.

Try using any older Nissan key, Lol. 5 out of my 8 Z's I've had could be started that way. Your ignition switch will work and as far as testing the compression, just cross the starter and have it turn over that way. Hot wiring isn't hard if it comes to that.

With the re-introduction of the litlle sportsters (Miata, Solstace, etc) I think it'd only be logical to bring out the original concept that made the Z famous. A light weight, sexy, great handling, 2-seater, dedicated sports car is just what we need to enter the market again.

Any pics, that work, available?

WOW, Sounds like a nice shop. Electrically speaking. If 60 amps will be enough for you then yes, #3 will be more than plenty. But Grumpy is very correct in what he said. Both wire and conduit have quadrupled in price and it hasn't stopped yet.

Technically, that'll work but it's recommended to use at least #2. But #3 will hold over 150 amps, just will not pass inspection.

Seen on a Diablo: URTOAST By second gear I could even see he had a plate, Lol. That encounter was what got me into getting more out of my Z. I'm getting TWIZT D. Couldn't get the "E" but thought I would try filling it in. It was that or some of these: YBSLO UBSLO URHSTRE ZULATR (was seen already tho) IMOUT By far the funniest one I seen and was issued not ordered: IM4 69U

Woot, Congrats!!!

I believe that model had a recall on the injectors. While replaceing them they switched it over to batch fire. Call your local Nissan dealer with your VIN to check. I was amazed when I worked for one ,as a warranty/recall officer, at the amount of "out-dated" Nissans that had outstanding recalls. One more suggestion: Is the rotor button turning, meaning is the timing belt broke?

Z-Tard yours sounds like the Cylinder temp sensor. Those are very common to cause problems. Check the resistence at different temps and compare them to the specs in the manuel. AFM could also be the culprit tho, but I'd start with the temp sensor. I also go thru plugs more than tanks of gas. It's because I'm screwing with the natural settings of the comp and having it run rich for when I "get on it". I bet yours runs great at open throttle, right?

I would hope that it would do more but it's possible that it's all it does. Not really enough info on the unit to make a better judgement. I change my fuel via an adjustible resistor connected to the cylinder head temp sensor. That does enough adjustment for me running 20+ boost with stock internals and electronics. Not sure how much of an improvement this unit would be.

Check your belt first, it could be loose. If not check your pulleys. Take your belt off and spin the altenator and Idler pulley (I think you have one). If they are fine check your wiring harness going into the altenator (Those are not usually problematic for Nissan but hey it could happen). Then take your altenator off and take it to an auto parts store and have them check it. If it's bad then you already have the core with you and you saved yourself another trip. Best of luck.

Actually it sounds like the throttle position sensor. Although there are many things it could be but I'd start there.

Direct wiring via a relay will fix voltage problems to your fuel pump. But have you actually tested the fuel pressure both off and under a load? Noises do give you an alert but I had my factory pump running louder than my radio with no problems with fuel supply. I don't know how or why but it was. I finally changed it for a new factory pump due to be sick of hearing it but still no change in fuel supply. And that's still using factory wiring to the pump.

I've had good luck with the 72's I had. Was also told that they were the ones to keep when posed with the same question. But I'm no carb expert, that's just my experience.