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can you bolt the nap z head to the L20 engine and can you tell me how.

I believe so. But the question would be why? The NAP Z cross flow heads are designed for economy/low polution = not a performance head, well that is what I am lead to believe.

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The NapsZ Head is good for one thing....door stop and boat anchor...ok thats two things.

 

Please do not waste your time....I went there and the $$ I spent I regret...I ended up building a 180hp NAPS motor, but the cost of getting there was silly.

 

Yasin

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I have an A87 or maybe its a W58? I cant remember, anyway, its a linered head but it has high quench chambers like a P79. for you 4 cylinder gurus, is this head worth anything?

 

Its got a minor crack and needs some straightening, should it get scrapped or is it worth fixing?

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I second and third the responses; why bother? Consider bolting a W53 or W58 L20B head to a LZ22E or LZ22S shortblock instead, it makes more sense and yes it can be done. DAW

 

Guys please don't call the Z20/Z22/Z24 engine a LZ anything they were never called LZ engine. The LZ engine was in fact a rare factory Twin Cam head that was fitted to L14/L16/L18 and L20B bottom ends for works rally cars and also used in the formula pacific class of open wheelers in the 70's/80's see here for info on these head/engine

http://www.datrats.com.au/lz_twin_cams.htm

(I believe the blocks were also slightly different, ie they used fully counter weighted cranks, longer rods, different custom pistons, timing gear etc)

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NZeder, I do have a question that you might know the answer to...it's a little off-topic but not too far...the LD20 4 cyl engine has a timing chain and the LD20II has a belt if I understand correctly. Do you know what was involved in the transition to belt? (I'd like to know if I can use LD20II components to convert my L20B and hybrid L/Z shortblocks to belt) It's more a curiousity on my part than finding fault with the double-row chain. DAW

I don't know the answer to that one - it is a good question, I might know someone who can answer that - I will get back to you - watch this space.

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I don't know the answer to that one - it is a good question, I might know someone who can answer that - I will get back to you - watch this space.

 

Ok got some answers for you

going to belt drive is realy a step backwards in terms of long term reliabilty .manufacturors design belt drives because it allows for shorter motors and lighter because of plastic covers .its not a bolt in job simply because the Ld20 11 is completly different to the L20b engine --even the bore and stroke are different as is the head (which cant be used on a petrol engine)and of course the oil pump design and drive is completly different .basicaly the entire front (cam drive end)of the motor has been redesigned to allow for a larger bore shorter stroke and still fit in the same engine bay ie same overall length .the Ld20 1 is of course just a super high compression L20b, apart from head and pistons most other bits are the same ,bearings bottom end gaskets too . actual block height of the Ld20 11 is shorter too .to convert L20b to belt drive --- custom rocker cover ,cam drive/seal mods ,entire cam drive cover custom made .heres a thought -- find a dohc head and adapt it to L20b bottom end (even if you have to chain drive it)at least youll find more power this way . by the way what were you hopeing to gain ?

 

With the last statement - I have heard that a KA24DE head can be made to fit a L4 bottom end, I have no idea what is involved but I am trying to get a copy of a video of a complete engine on a Dyno that I believe exists.

 

End Hi-Jack DAW - if I get that video I will post in a new thread :)

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