MONGO510 Posted July 15, 2006 Share Posted July 15, 2006 After doing much searching, I came to the conclusion that to put a T-56 behind a Gen 1 small block I had to buy a Weir conversion, a Mcleod conversion, or use a special adapter plate to mate the T-56 to a standard 4spd bellhousing. It appeared that I would be spending a minimum of 3-400 for the necessary parts. While following various links I came across a company called Standard Transmission & Gear. I talked to a fellow named Mike who set me up with these parts. 1. a used LS1 bellhousing 2. a new Hydraulic T.O. Brg. The price delivered to my door was $207 !! Sweet! After measuring everything looks like it will fit just fine, but possibly require drilling the end of the crank with a 5/8 drill, 1/4in deep, for input shaft clearance. The stock clutch assembly will fit, 153 or 168 flywheel will fit, starter will fit. Am I missing something or is it going to be this easy. I saw no reference to this setup while doing search. Obviously it will not be legal for drag racing, but should work fine for street use. I do intend to put a steel shield in the tunnel for my own protection. To contact Standard Transmission go to http://www.standardtransmission.com/ Input? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastzcars Posted July 15, 2006 Share Posted July 15, 2006 I don't think it's a LS1 bellhousing you bought, but an LT1 bellhousing. Does the bellhousing bolt to your 1 gen block? Did you already have the trans? What year is the trans? If you can bolt the bellhousing to the trans, and the trans input shaft fits into the pilot bushing in the engines crank then I don't see why it wouldn't work. Your going to need to trial fit everything to gether and see if you get 40 to 60 thousands of clearence from the throwout bearing to the clutch hat fingers. I seem to remeber that the LS1-t56 has a different length input shaft compared to the LT1-t56. But I have been known to be wrong. If I were you I would call a couple of other t56 venders just to confirm that! Post some more pics with your progress. I would like to know if it does fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONGO510 Posted July 15, 2006 Author Share Posted July 15, 2006 The bell bolts up just fine although the top right bolt hole is missing. There is an extra hole at the very top which can be used if the block is drilled and tapped. There is no provision for external slave cyl. or linkage. Must use a hydraulic T.O. brg. The T.O. they sent is self adjusting The trans is a "98" T56. The only issue I see at the moment is the input length, which might be remedied with a block plate /spacer and pilot brg. Any other thoughts or ideas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastzcars Posted July 15, 2006 Share Posted July 15, 2006 Well the self adjustment of most HTO do have a limited range, and if you put a spacer to compensate for the input shaft the trust surface of the HTO maybe too far from the clutch hat fingers. All you can do is trial fit everything. That means install flywheel,hat,disc,etc... Then look through the access holes and see how much clearence you have. My gut feeling says that the input shaft will be too long, and the trans won't be able to bolt up to the motor. Does anyone here know when the LS1 started production in the f-bodies? I seem to remember 98 being the first year? If it is too long, I think it's best to just bite the bullet and have the input cut down to size. I know it's probably NOT what you want to hear, but remember that it's just my opinion! We got alot of experenced guys here and I'm sure someone else will have another idea. Wait, I just thought, what if you put the same thickness spacer under the HTO, that you would use to space off the trans? I think then that would work! Anybody else ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONGO510 Posted July 15, 2006 Author Share Posted July 15, 2006 Spacer under HTO was what I had in mind, if I found it necessary. Fortunately I am able to fabricate any needed spacers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastzcars Posted July 15, 2006 Share Posted July 15, 2006 Thats cool then, I don't see anything else that could cause trouble. OH I did just think of one minor thing, just the master cylinder size and stoke. But that's minor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sumo Posted July 15, 2006 Share Posted July 15, 2006 I believe that 1998 was the year that the LS1's came out. I think the T56 were out since the new style Fbody's came out in 1993. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONGO510 Posted July 15, 2006 Author Share Posted July 15, 2006 Yes, it is a trany from an LS1 Camaro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted July 16, 2006 Share Posted July 16, 2006 Any reason why you didn't just get a T56 from a 93-97 LT1 car? Should have bolted up directly. Drilling a hole in the back of the crank does not sound like fun to me. I thought the LS T56's had shorter input shafts than the LT variants? Seems like that would make the shaft come up short of the crank and not the other way around. I must be missing something. What you say about the bellhousing bolt holes is true. They only differ by one mounting bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONGO510 Posted July 17, 2006 Author Share Posted July 17, 2006 I got a pretty good deal on this trany. Super low miles on it,under 10k, Good gear ratios, came with a ls7 clutch that's in great shape. $900. couldn't pass it up. After looking at it I will build a spacer(very simple on this). Iwill take photos and do a write up on this as there seems to be much confusion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastzcars Posted July 17, 2006 Share Posted July 17, 2006 O.K. heres a charts I got from DD performance. It shows that the LS1 bellhousing is longer than the LT1, it would stand toreason then That the LS1's input shaft should be longer? I'm still looking to see if I can find the actual sizes of both input shafts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONGO510 Posted July 17, 2006 Author Share Posted July 17, 2006 Input shaft looks to be about 1/2" longer. A spacer that size will place the pilot and spline in good position. Then measure the height of the clutch and build the correct T.O. spacer for proper fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gvincent Posted November 28, 2006 Share Posted November 28, 2006 Mongo, did you ever get this resolved? I too may have a great deal on a 98 T56 and will need to mate to a 383 stroker if I go that route. Thanks, Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONGO510 Posted November 30, 2006 Author Share Posted November 30, 2006 I used a steel plate that was 5/8" thick to move the trany back. I used a hydraulic TO brg, that was also spaced back 5/8". No pics available at this time as project has been moved down the list of projects. Datsun 510/SR20DET project is filling garage at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONGO510 Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 I used a steel plate that was 5/8" thick to move the trany back. I used a hydraulic TO brg, that was also spaced back 5/8". No pics available at this time as project has been moved down the list of projects. Datsun 510/SR20DET project is filling garage at the moment. Sorry this is so late. i have been driving the car for a tear and have made a few changes. I have added another 3/8" of spacers and made a new pilot bushing to compensate for moving trany back. I now have a total of 1" of spacers and the pilot extends from trhe rear of the crank about 1/2". The new spacers will allow the clutch to have enough play to be self adjusting. It originally realeased at the very top of the pedal travel and had no room for wear. I also added several steel plates to the trany tunnel to act as a scatter shield. See pics . Mongo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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