Just a do it yourselfer looking to have fun;-)HELP!

[New2TheZ2006]

My experiance was break jobs, shocks, starters, alternators, plugs, wires, and minor body work before this, so I am a beginner.

 

OK, I got a car (1975 280Z) and a hatch full of spare parts both body, electrical, and interior. Now what...I have to drive it so;

 

The car sat for while and was not running. Cleaned the fuel lines drained the tank, put new gas in it and got the car to crank but the #6 injector sticks. The clutch was sticking so it was taken apart cleaned and freed up, now I actually can drive the beast, even though the engine is slugish (maybe from sitting so long). What engine is this if the VIN is a HLS30 prefix, is there way to tell?

 

Needs tires and four struts, so that is second after I inspect the brakes and repack wheel bearings. Then I plan on driving it as I fix it up.

 

Now the questions, #1 what am I forgetting.

 

The motor has newer over sized pistons from a prior rebuild. The injection / fuel system looks clean and possible replaced not too long ago. I dont know the history of the car, so I am flying blind here and need some backup.

 

2. will the motors power increase or atleast run better as time goes on. (I am starting it and letting it idle a few minutes each day with ocasional drive around the block (literally) so it can breakin again after sitting for so long.)

3. what kind of struts should I put on basics now and improve later or is there a economical way to address this issue up front.

4. the body, floorpans, rails, and engine compartment are solid where else should i look

 

 

All help recomendations accepted except for the suggestion of taking the car off my hand so I dont have to worry about it.

 

PS

This thing cost me $1400 was that too much for such a project, I dont know; a friend decided he didnt want a project and hooked me up with the deal.

[zeiss150]

The engine is an L28 (L is the stright 6 part and 28 is the 2.8 liter dispalcement part) more specifically an N42 block with an N42 head. the HLS30 part is standard for all 70-78 Z's the following #'s are the # of the car build (this info is off the top of my head and I'm sure I will be corrected if I'm even the littlest bit wrong)

 

1. the breaks If you're gonna go fast you wanna be able to stop fast. Do the toyota brake up grade or the 300zx upgrade (or is it both, toyota calipers and 300zx vented rotors?)

 

2. Will it get faster? I don't know, how long was the engine sitting? It couldn't be that long with a fresh rebuild, How much of a break in was giving to the rebuild? is everything working right on the engine now? Is your timing set for the best power. Start by making sure the basic stuff is working right then add moddifications to make it go faster.

 

3. Takico struts.... just one choice You can get a full set on Ebay for about $200 or so

 

4. Rust hides in the smallest places check... under the battery box, the rear deck, the corners of the doors, bottom of the fender by the door.

 

$1400 isn't bad for a running rust free Z. You need to figure out what you want to do with the Z. How much Horse power do you want, Stock or 300 to the wheels, do you want stock interior, stock suspention or race. You can make your Z into just about anykind of fun race or weekend sports car that you want. Your wallet and your imagination are your only limits. Good luck and let us know if you have more questions.

 

P.S. All the modification that I talked about and a million more are on this site. My advice is to read read read.

 

P.P.S. the stock horse power on that engine is 135, just so you know what you are starting with.

 

P.P.P.S. last one ... go here ... It'll blow your mind http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html

[New2TheZ2006]

Wow alot of great info, I will start going through her and trying to figure it all out.

 

Great site, tons of information. Again Thanks.

 

Jon

[primer&rust]

KYB struts are good and cheap but are not suppose to work well with lowering springs. I have had these strusts on my car for over 8 years and they still work great. If I were you I would check the valve clearences and the timing chain adjustment because if they are off, they can cost you some power. I have a 1975 280z like you but it is primered and rusty as my name says. Some people say you can unstick injectors by spray carburetor cleaner into them and pushing on the injector needle valve with a flat screwdriver. Have fun these are great cars.