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primer&rust

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Everything posted by primer&rust

  1. Did you check to make sure you have power at the ignition coil. You can use a test light to the positive at the primary side of the coil to check. Could be wiring is burnt/old/bad, fuse, or fusible links, or the shunt box if you still have it on the car. Also check your grounds and relays if possible and maybe ignition switch. Sometimes the little stuff can make big problems.
  2. I've got a MSA 6 in 1 with 2 1/2 inch exhaust and mufflers. I believe it is better than the 6 into 2 as I had one on my car in the past and wasn't too impressed. Without mufflers these car are loud with that 6-1 header. I ran it with no pipe in the driveway and the neighbors came over and thought I had a Big Block Chevy under the hood from the sound. If you get a racing header the larger tube size is suppose to effect the RPM power range. I did the bulk of the exhaust myself and it would probably be easier to fit 2 1/2 inch than three but do whatever works for you. It's always a pain when you go to a lot of work an than are not pleased with the results. You will usually than have to redo the whole job again to get it just how you want it.
  3. I seems like a waste of time an money on these car all the linkage is short and usually has no problems whatsoever. Do you want your Z car taking off on its own like some of the Toyota Prius cars did. I think, keep it simple stupid, applies here. At least if there is something wrong with mechanical linkage you can usually see it and fix. Computer glitches are much harder to deal with and track down.
  4. Search Ebay (cheapest), Summit Racing for Professional, or MSA for Products 80055 Nissan L-Series Damper. They are cheap, brand new, but be warned they are super hard to get these things installed because they are a extremely tight fit and probably should be machined to fit better. I messed up the threads on my crankshaft bolt torquing the pulley down and had to pick up another crankshaft bolt at the wrecking yard. I also bought some large washers at Lowes to help put extra pressure on the pulley to pull it down onto the crankshaft snout which helped alot. These pulleys also require a narrower belt than stock. If you get this pulley either get it machined larger or make sure you have plenty of time to get it installed and some big breaker bar to do the job or maybe air impact.
  5. Megasquirt can be a whole box of new problems, at least it was for me and I had a professionally assembled unit. I'm dealing with SU carbs now and even though they have some lean spots (I'm going to order some SM needles) THEY ROCK! I'm getting lots more pull than the injected engine and they start so much quicker than the fuel injection ever did. If you need more compression and you have some money or a machineist friend get the head milled to its max limit shim the cam towers and that should raise your compression some. All the N47 heads I have seen along with N42 p79 and p90 head are setup for injection or carburetion. I think the E heads didn't have the notches and thread bolt holes for the injection manifold.
  6. If I were you i would avoid Megasquirt. I tried it and it was just a huge waste of money that didn't work. At the very least if you buy an assembled unit from someone make sure you have everything ready to go on the car as the warranty for your assemble unit can pass quickly than you are left paying a repair bill for a computer that does not get fix properly and you are out more money. If I were to do it again I would have saved the money for a name brand unit like Electromotive Tec instead of the Radio Shack version (Megasquirt) that is plagued with problems.
  7. Alright so I can get the the car started and idling well but I can not hold a steady RPM when I rev the motor. If I stab the throttle and let off I can rev it to 5K RPM but if I try to hold RPM the engine stumbles and dies sometimes backfiring. I have played with the PWM settings( 1.2 opening time, 35% current limit, 1.5 time threshold for the stock injectors) and it idles well but that is about it. Could this be from pulling the tach signal from the coil negative instead of a VR trigger. When I tried to tee into the VR signal from between my ZX distributor and the GM HEI module I would get no spark or injection. I might have a weak VR signal because my tachometer inside the car never read RPM at idle. Is their a better distributor (280z) for a stronger VR trigger signal ( I know the ignition box was clear inside the car in the 280z) or should I just go ahead and install Ford EDIS. I believe I can pickup either one of these systems at a local wrecking yard. I'm trying to get the car up and running as it has been down 3 weeks so any input is appresiated. Thank You
  8. From the Mega squirt website under the external wiring diagram for the v3.0 board "All MegaSquirt® installations must have an input (tach) signal to determine engine speed. This signal comes in on pin #24 of the DB37. A variable reluctor (VR) input (tach) sensor is shown (above) for the input. To use a Hall sensor, optical sensor, or points trigger, you connect the signal to the same input pin (DB37 #24) as the VR sensor. You must ground the VR other lead of the sensor as well, and pin #7 is shown for this (though pin #2 can also be used). However, pin 7 is not a 'dedicated' or specialized ground for the VR sensor, it just happens to be a ground (the next revision of the PCB will have a dedicated ground for the VR circuit on DB37 pin #2, so use pin #2 if you think you might upgrade at any point)." This is where I got the information and it seems to work.
  9. I found out the VR positive from the megasquirt is suppose to be connected to the negative trigger of the coil and the VR negative from the megasquirt is suppose to be grounded. Car idles but stumbles a little bit time for more prayer and tuning time. Hope this helps someone else out too.
  10. Hello I have a 3.0 board built by DIY Auto setup for a VR trigger, 280zx distributor, Gm 4pin HEI and I can't seem to get a tach signal from the negative of the coil. I am trying to run fuel only with 029y4 and when I run the positive VR wire to the positive of the coil I do get a tach signal, it tries to start, has spark, and has RPM readings (between 70 RPM & 411 RPM) on the gauges but it does not start. When I run the negative VR wire to the negative side of the coil I get no spark at plugs or coil. I ran the 470 ohm 1/2 watt resistor between the wires on the modules firing side but this made little or no difference. When I try to start the car with the postive VR hooked into the coil + I do get the LED flashing. When I have the negative VR hooked into the coil it only flashes once and no spark. I am not running shielded wire to the coil, would this help at all as in Megatune it shows no RPM with the negative trigger. I have read so many post here and on the Megasquirt forum if anyone has an idea what might be helpful please let me know.
  11. I'm running a mn47 shaved .050", with porting, and 44mm intake valves on a dished piston L28. It runs good and strong although I need to change the valve timing a bit (it's not right on). My car has a stock Z camshaft and now like to run on premium gasoline. You can notice less power if you use regular gasoline. Your set up should work great in my opinion.
  12. I think it may have taken about an hour to port the manifold. I only got about half way down the runner because my mandrel was not long enough. I used the standard abrasive deluxe kit summit racing sold for $50 at that time. I still have some cartridge rolls left from it and I have ported a supercharger, 2 intake manifolds, and 2 cylinder heads even though one of them was a light job on a 4 cyl. I did not flow test the job, just a DIY project but my car with the ported head and manifold runs very good. Use WD 40 for lubing the cartridge rolls and a die grinder with good air pressure. The porting kit comes with instructions for porting cylinder heads. Porting the intake all the way could be a little tricky because after you get so far down the runner you can't see way you are doing. I also opened up the throttle opening pictured above.
  13. I have ported my intake some advice I would give is to get a ready long mandrel for your cartridge rolls so you can finish the whole runner.
  14. If the pump worked with the SU carbs (240z) it should work with your holley carb. A high pressure fuel injection pumps usually run around $100 so if it is a cheap pump it is probably setup for a carburetor. If it was my setup I would run a fuel regulator. This would let you adjust your fuel flow if your pump puts out a little too much pressure and keep the flow of fuel steady.
  15. If the flywheel is from a 2+2 you will most likely have a 240mm flywheel and need that clutch disc sized for it. If it was from the 2 seater it is most likely a 225mm flywheel and need the clutch size for it. The pressure plates also have different bolt patterns depending on which flywheel they bolt to. The only way to know for sure is to tear it down and match it with the clutch disc you need either through pictures or at a parts store. With the mix and match setup you already have that is the best advise I can give. Or if you have enough cash buy both clutch disc and return the one that wil not work with your setup.
  16. If your looking for cheap new wire, Harbor Freight sells wire storehouses with 250 ft. of wire, most of it is useable for the car, lot of it is good stuff and it cost $19.99. You can find their website if you do not have one of their stores locally.
  17. Here are some picture of my kit car in the process on the fourth coat of black gloss Rustoleum paint. Wanted to paint it with rollers before I tried it on my Z. Thought you all might want to see some picture in progress.
  18. You can use a thermostat from a Chevy V8 if you want 160 degree. A parts guy at Napa Auto told me this and I have been running a Chevy 160 stat in my car for years with no problem. They are a perfect fit and can be bought in stainless steel for a decent price.
  19. Nice write up on using the z bracket for the GM alternator. If you didn't want to thread the inside of the Z mount you could probably drill it through and just use a nut, washer, and lock washer on the back side of the mount. I had a custom made mount through a welding shop. It's not perfect but it works and lets me use a chromed GM 100amp alternator. As for the one wire or three wire I like the three wire set up. It is detailed in the Jags That Run v8 swap book. On my 280z with the ammeter I only had to run two wires one to the stock postive that runs to the fusebox and one to the battery for the 12 voltage sensing (regulator). It is grounded through the alternator body. The three wire setup lets the ammeter show how many amps are charging. With the one wire you only see the negative draw the car is using. Very good cheap alternators.
  20. I was search this forum trying to find out if the early style 300zx TPS would work with megasquirt. I currently (not megasquirt yet) have a 300zx throttle body on my car with a 280z TPS and some of the wrecking yards here usually have 300zx cars and very few, if any, 240sx cars. Will the 300zx TPS work? Other alternative larger throttle bodies, with TPS, from other cars that bolt up to the stock manifold and work with megasquirt, would be nice to know about too. Thanks:-)
  21. I recently bought an assembled megasquirt from DIY since so many of you had good things to say about him. It's nice to know I will have a megasquirt coming to me and not a possibly semi assembled brick with no tech support. Thank you all so much for the information.
  22. Hello I have been looking into buying a fully assembled megasquirt 1 V3.0 and wanted to know who had good ones. ProtoCar Electronic Corp. sales them for $275 plus shipping but will not reply to my email questions. Has anyone bought from them before and are they well made. I do not want to spend my money on a unit that is incomplete. I like DIY Autos site but for $330 compare to $275 it might be harder for me to gather all the necessary sensor. I appreciate your input.
  23. mom'sZ you read about the two piece replaceable nose on the earlier reduction starters in How To Modify Your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine. They are much lighter than the normal starters and came stock from 78-83 according to this book but some cars in wrecking yards have the normal one as people sometime go for the cheaper starter at the parts stores. I picked my reduction start up at a wrecking yard (could tell it was a parts store rebuild) and have not had any problems with it at all. They start the engine nice and quick.
  24. Mounting 280zx calipers on an early Z with Maxima brackets require you to turn them upside down since they are mounted at the front of the strut instead of the rear like the 280zx. The bleeders on my calipers are on the bottom of the calipers. Master Cylinders "The size of the master cylinders' piston has a direct result on brake fluid pressure. However, it may not work like you would think... higher line pressure will build up on a smaller master cylinder piston to react the force applied by the pedal. A smaller master cylinder will create more brake fluid pressure but will also increase brake pedal travel. The smaller diameter cylinder requires a longer stroke to move the volume of fluid necessary to move the caliper pistons during braking. Larger master cylinders will create less pressure but will require less travel" Quoted from http://sports.racer.net/brake_bias.htm I was wrong about pedal stiffness but not the line pressure. The mechanical pedal input force will be the same between the two, same pedal and booster, but the output force and line pressure will be higher with the smaller cylinder. From my old college automotive class worksheets I have found Line Pressure= Mechanical Input Pressure divided by Master Cylinder bore size. So with say 100LBS of input the stock 7/8 would have 114 psi and the 15/16 would have 106psi. Output force = Caliper Piston bore size (lets say 2" for an example) divided by our master cylinder bores (7/8, 15/16) than multipied by our 100LBS input pressure. In this example the 7/8 cylinder creats a output of 228LBS. The 15/16 cylinder creats a output force would be 213LBS. With the 1/16 differents in the master cylinder sizes it would probibly not be worth the effort of the swap. The Volvo must have a longer stroke to the master cylinder, bigger booster or greater mechanical force since it is about the same size as the early Z making up for its smaller volume. I will be staying with my smaller master cylinder. jmortensen Thanks for correcting me on the pedal stiffness factor where you were correct.
  25. I don't know why a bigger master cylinder 15/16" is considered better since it will actually produce less pressure and a softer pedal. If any of you have driven a Volvo these cars have small master cylinders and the brake pedal is rock hard and very responsive. I have 4 wheel disc on my Z, the stock small master cylinder and steel braided lines. The pedal in my car is not soft and it seems to work fine. I think I could use an adjustable proportioning though as the rear rotors don't appear to wear much compared to the fronts. Also remember when you bleed these brakes (280zx ones at least) to turn them upside down so all of the air can be bleed out. Mityvac works great for doing this.
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