Alternate B&W T5 clutch slave set up.

[ThomaZ]

If you are using my set up above the SC shall be pulling towards the tranny.

[MY77Z]

and for the ford tranny, does it have to pull or push the fork??

[ThomaZ]

To my knowledge it has the same set up regarding the clutch fork as the T5 mounted on Chevy engines.

[MY77Z]

well, i dont think so because its not working i think i need a push style SC for my ford tranny, i'll stop working now coz i can't come up with any ideas, tired as hell if any of you guys have ideas, please help me out here.

[ThomaZ]

Sorry to hear that. I have never worked on a Ford T5 so I can’t tell for sure. A few thoughts;

I you study the system that you removed, doesn’t it give you any clues to in what direction the fork arm should move?

 

Could you describe what’s not working in more detail? Should we assume that the cutch hydraulic system has been connected, properly bleed, and the SC moves when you push down the clutch pedal, but the clutch don’t disengage?

 

I you try to push the fork arm by hand, can you feel the resistance from the clutch springs? That could give you a clue to which direction the clutch arm should move.

[MY77Z]

its a push type SC that i need

i'll try to think of a way to install it the other way around so it pulls the fork toward the engine, if you guys have any advices, please dont hesitate.

[lbhsbZ]

Whatever happens, the slave cylinders needs to push the throw out bearing TOWARDS the engine. figure out how your fork is setup and get the appropriate cylinder. Some ford gearboxes use a push type setup.

[MY77Z]

i thought about installing the SC the other way around, i'll try to install it next to the engine so it pulls the fork toward the engine, and couldn't find a pushing type SC on line!!! do you know any place where i could find one?

[ThomaZ]

"couldn't find a pushing type SC on line!!! "

 

Exactly! That’s why I went for a pulling SC instead. And mounted it so it pulls the fork arm towards the gearbox which in turn pushes the throw out bearing towards the engine as the fork arm is mounted on a pivot.

[lbhsbZ]

I want to point out that this also works for the Tremec TKO gearboxes behind a SBC....and that the Wilwood SC is overpriced. Summit has a HOWE pull type slave for about $45....the Wilwood is almost twice that price. I used the HOWE and didn't have to fab up a bracket for it. There is an ear cast into the side of the case that was the perfect distance away from the fork.

[MY77Z]

still wouldn't work on my tranny since i need a pull type slave

[MY77Z]

hi guys,

well after few weeks of not working on the car because of my job, a friend of mine and me came up with an idea, we will install the SC behind the tranny and next to the engine so the SC pulls the fork toward the engine wich is the thing i need, we canceled the fix rod from the SC and put a 13mm screw, then we fabricated a piece of aluminum that is identical to the plastic piece on the ford stock cable wich goes into the bellhousin, it slips on the SC and attaches to the SC by 3 5mm screws, we'll install it and place a holding clip from the other side excatly like the stock cable, i had to lengthen the rod so it arrives to the fork and have enough space to adjust the clutch:

here are some photos, hope it will help people later,

here u see how i removed the fix rod and put the screw.

 

this is the aluminum piece were you can see the 5mm hole and the place to put the clip

 

this is the fix rod i removed and im going to connect it to the other moving rod by a (2.5cm long/8mm thread) nut.

 

this is the connecting nut

 

the new modified SC installed all together ( i know it looks like a freking weapon)

 

a colser look to show the screw that holds the aluminum piece to the SC

 

i'll install it tomorow on the car, bleed it and let you know how it works + more photos on the car.

[MY77Z]

hi guys,

good news it works as good as i wanted, the clutch is alot stiffer than it used to be but still it's ok

bad news, didn't have time to take photos of the whole thing installed on the car, will take photos in a couple of days when i jack it up again.

thank you all for your help and ideas

[MY77Z]

hi guys, took photos of the new setup:

here you can see how the aluminum piece is excatly same as the factory's plastic one, it goes into the bellhousing with no problems.

 

this is the locking washer or the locking clip

 

the whole thing together, the rod's length is just perfect

 

been driving the car for 2 days and everything is ok

hope this will help you guys (specially Ford guys)

thanks again

[Trevor]

Brilliant!

Do you think it might need a heat shield between the exh. header and the SC? looks a little snug there and melted seals would be a pain.... I know, a tiny circulator pump and radiator to cool the hyd. fluid....J/K:-)

[MY77Z]

hahahahaha nice joke

well, you know what, it wouldn't be a bad idea to use a heat shield between them, maybe i'll do it, thanks for the idea

[Trevor]

 

http://www.jmcmotorsports.com/catalog.asp?cat=early&cat0=1965&cat1=Transmission%20Conversions&cat2=Hydraulic%20Clutch%20Kits

 

I think I've seen this before here at HybridZ.org, I seem to remember thr $450 kit price. This month's Kit Car Magazine has a story about installing the SC in a Cobra kit

 

Note the long bracket that places the SC along side the trans, using the existing housing bolts. It is very similar to the "pull" SC used in the Chevrolet fabrication pictures in the 1st post.

[MY77Z]

looks good but expensive, the setup i went with didnt coast me 150bucks with all the mods i did to make it fit.

[frosty383]

When I installed a CSB 350 together with a Borg-Warner T5 NWC gearbox in my 1972 240Z I followed the JTR manual almost to the letter.

 

As recommended by members on this board I used an 7/8" master cylinder (MC) from Wilwood (WIL-260-6765 at Summit). It fits the hole pattern in the firewall without trimming. I installed an AN4 fitting (like Summit RUS-66042-1) and a custom-made steel braided hose down to the stock GM plastic slave cylinder (SC).

 

The set up had several disadvantages. The connection to the plastic SC was fragile. I hade to hammer a bulge into the lower part of the fire wall to get sufficing clearance for the cutch arm.

It was so difficult to bleed. I didn't get it to work well. The clutch disengaged, but just barely.

The SC ended up very close to the down tub from the headers. I made an heat shield but it doubt it worked.

 

After just 1000 kilometers (625 miles) the SC quite and dumped all the fluid out around the pushrods. I was reluctant to just reinstall a new plastic SC so I started to investigate an alternative; and bellow is what I ended up with.

 

I used a SC with aluminum housing from Wilwood (WIL-260-1333 at Summit Racing). It is a pulling clutch SC so it needs a new mount and a modified clutch arm.

 

The stock clutch arm was shorted and an a hole drilled in it for the push rod

I fabricated a SC mount from 1/8" steel. I made some simple cardboard templates an the cut it out with a hack saw and bent it in a wise. It was then stick welded together. I made it to pick up on of the "ears" on the gearbox housing and two mounting bolts on the aft face of the gear box. It is a simple design and I hope the photos will aid if you wish to duplicate it.

 

The stock nipple on the Wilwood SC was replace with an other AN4 nipple and I had a new steel braided hose made. It is 800 mm (31.5") long and has 90 degree bend on both ends.

 

The rest of the photos shows the system installed. It works really well. It was simple to bleed and it disengages and engages distinctively. As can be seen from the photo it clears the firewall and the trans tunnel. It sits higher up in the trans tunnel an clears the exhaust tube with comfortable margin.

 

The disadvantages is that you must remove the bell housing from the engine to be able to remove and install the clutch arm and the clutch arm is hard as nails to drill in! Use a drill press, top quality drill bits, work slowly and use cutting fluid.

 

I have now put approx. 2000 km (1.250 miles) on it and it still works well, so I thought it would be something worthwhile sharing.

 

Best regards

ThomasZ

 

that clutch fork pictured with the hole in it is the stock fork cut short and drilled? how much did you cut off?

[ThomaZ]

Yes Frosty383, you are right it is the stock fork that I cut and drilled. Unfortunately I didn’t take any measurement on how much I cut off but the picture gives you an idea. Basically I cut of enough to make it clear the fire wall with a comfortable margin. It is not critical.

 

The only reason I did cut it was to clear the firewall. And if you look at the bottom picture of the tread; you do not have to cut much to clear. Just cutting of the bowl shaped outer tip would probably be sufficient.