frosty383

so any three belts you named there will work? which one are you using of the three? another thing is none of the autoparts locally list those part numbers, where did you buy them from? online, any particular autoparts chain?

OK folks I would like some input and posibble pictures of your V8 Z pulley drivebelt setups. Heres the problem I'm having, as you can see by the picture of my setup I have a small V-belt running the crank, waterpump and alt. the pulleys are billet single groove for the crank and WP. The problem is after a couple of spins of the motor above 5000 rpms the belt begins to strech, burn and snaps. Now I am thinking the problem lies in how the alt is fastened. its a march kit with billet mounting bracket and adjustable link bar. Its such a pretty and simple kit that i would hate to do away with it but at this point there is no reliability in it for a long trip. Any suggestions on your setups would be helpful. thanks, Johnny from south florida

I have a fresh r200 open diff with 390 gears and axles. I just pulled off my 260z, too much gear for a stroker. let me know.

Well heres the thing, the aftermarket seats sit too high on the stock seat supports and when I mocked them up the lumbars on the back rest and sides hit the door and the console. I have a 73 parts car that I cut out the seat supports and I placed the seats on the floor and their perfect. but the floors rigidness was compromized once cut.

OK, heres the deal I am going to be replacing my stock seat on my 260Z with a set of nice aftermarket leather seats. In order to do this I have to cut out the stock seat supports that run from the tunnel to the door. These supports I believe to give the floor boards rigidity and once cut the floors will get weak. What would be the best way to weld some cold steel bars to the floors to strenghen up the floors??

what eventually I would like to build for this car is a 302DZ motor but one that cranks 8500 rpms. something like this: http://videos.streetfire.net/video/69-camaro-stock-302-DZ_156232.htm

Shot at 2008-04-18

quick question. I have a 260Z with a SBC in it. its a 5 speed, 650 holley DP dual feed with a fuel filter intergrated fuel rail. I have the holley FPR set at 6.5 lbs. I have an external holley blue FP located right in front of the fuel tank with a 90 degree fitting on the tank and a 3/8th" blue hose connected to a cheap autoparts all metal fuel filter in between the fuel tank and the fuel pump. Until now the car was running fine considering I have only driven the car at night but today I drove around in it for about an hour or so. Upon trying to merge onto the highway I gave it full throttle in first and second and noticed that the engine developed a very noticable sputter and cut off. I stoped on the side of the road and tried fireing her back up and nothing. the fuel pump was still powered up and I felt a weird shaking in the fuel hoses leading to the regulator and towards the carb. I let the engine cool down a bit even though the temp guage was a 170 and after 5 minutes she cranked right up. Now on to the question at hand, that weird sputter, I felt while driving at night but not as bad where it would make the motor stumble like it did today. Could it be the rear fuel filter thats inline between the tank and pump?, I ruled out the pump and the FPR because when I got home I opened the hood and while it was idling I gave the throttle a few good blast to 6000 rpms while watch the fuel pressure gauge and it stayed steady at 6.5 PSI.

well the battery terminals are clean and tight. negative is well grounded and positive is tight and both terminals covered with their rubber covers. checked all prong type connectors and crimp connectors around firewall inside dash and outside as well and at ignition switch and down the harness.

Ok heres the deal. I have a 74 260Z with a SBC 5m in it, I have a one wire alternator in it which means that its not wired to the factory harness, battery and chassis ground and thats it. OK I recently noticed that every so often when I would try and start the car I would get a couple of clicking sounds from around the fuse box area and then it would just start after a couple of tries. I had an extra ignition switch and changed it but same deal. I tested the yellow wire on the solenoid while someone turned the key and sure enough no current to the solenoid. I have a shop manual and tried to trace the yellow solenoid wire through the firewall to test inside the car and could not. so what I did is test the incoming and outgoing wires on what seems to be some sort of metal relay above the fuse box that clicks when the ignition switch is turned and the motor does not turn over but I am not sure thats the outgoing solenoid wire to the engine bay that leads to the solenoid due to its different color but when tested it has outgoing current with ignition switch in the run and start position. So what I propose to do is simply purchase a pushbutton starter switch like this one from jegs http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplayPopup?storeId=10001&partNumber=555-10310&langId=-1&showValue=1 wire that to a 30/40 relay then send a wire from that aftermarket relay directly to the starter solenoid so when I turn the ignition to run with the key I can just push the switch and start the car. Now my question here to the electrical Gods would be: when I run the wire from the aftermarket relay which is activated through the pushbutton switch to the solenoid, Do I have to disconnect the existing yellow factory wire thats on the starter solenoid now? or can it be connected over it and would that cause any type of electrical problems later?

thanks for the input. heres a pic of the car.

need some input. I picked up this cherry 1970 240Z from a good friend of mine. motor in it is an L28 out of an 83 ZX. as far as I can see its got a diesel crank, steel headgasket stock t3 turbo (open down pipe) some aftermarket front mount cooler and internal wastgate, OHH and a haltech:icon6:. this little gem I will keep but would like to do away with the stock T3 and internal wastegate setup so I can get a T04E with an external wg and then have a 3" exhaust installed. what do you think of this turbo on ebay? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170284706165&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem= and what WG would you recommend? thanks johnny from miami, Fl

4th gen camaro

Question?, I keep reading here that it is not recommended that wd40 or any type of penetrating oil be used to assist in the removal of a strut cartridge that is jammed in a housing. Why not? I also read somewhere else on a similar subject that when instaling a new cartridge in a housing that grease should not be used.? wont the grease aid in friction and removal later on down the road when replacing?

well I'm using a borg warner world class T5 out of a 1991 camaro and its a salvage trans I pulled off of a running 91 camaro RS, my engine is mild 383 setup in a 260z which based on my assumptions makes well into the 400 hp to the flywheel and its held up pretty well. you can probably run a built T5 on yours which would work great because of the trans gear ratios or you can use a T56 6 speed and have to convert to a one piece rear main seal and Lt1 type flywheel. another thing to look into is the flywheel inbalance depending if your motor is externally balanced or internally like mines in which I had to take the stock camaro flywheel to a machine shop and have it counter balanced with a 400 flexplate.

I am considering using some sort of adtermarket hood vents on my Z to relieve some underhood temps. has anyone used this companies products and what do you think? http://www.raceace.com/products.html

OK heres my dilema, I have a 260z with a SBC and the stock pedal is connected to a spectre throttle cable to my holley 650 dp. problem is the stock pedle on the Z does not hold up too well, actually my pedal has bent a bit. any suggestions???

LOL a stock bodied 240 or 260z with a SBC 350 that cranks out 375 to 400 hp with a 5 speed and a 336 gear should be able to hit the 180 mark given enough land, if i am wrong please explain

find yourself a 1996 GM 5.7 ltr TBI motor. these come with the L31 vortec heads. slap on an edelbrock airgap, freshen the valve springs to anything above 520 lift and below or at 600 lift, throw in a comp extreme energy cam at around 485 lift, top it off with a holley 650 DP mech secondaries and a pro billet mech advance dizzy with an MSD 6al. powerful and dead reliable

I think I hit a buck 60 on the highway while pacing, not racing quote un quote, two friends of mine who were racing a 2006 GTO and a 1997 cobra, I was well behind when they took off and I tried to stay even but my car said hell no lol. the goat let off at a little over 140 mph and I did as soon as I passed a rig. I hadnt shot 5th yet but the cobra owner decided to top out his car as you will see in the video. http://videos.streetfire.net/video/1997-cobra-vs-60-gto-for_176342.htm here is the car you see cruising in the far left By speed38374, shot with KODAK DX4530 ZOOM DIGITAL CAMERA at 2008-08-06

this is one hell of a great write up!, I,m surprised I have not found this considering all the researching I do on this site. Anyways I currently have a SBC V8 260Z (i,m including some pics) but this is what I have been llooking for to put together a clean 280Z with a roller 5.0 HO carbed motor and a 5 speed. The reason I would like to go with a 280 instead of a 240 or 260 is cause the availability and price of the latter. anyways great write up. thanks By speed38374 at 2008-08-06 By speed38374, shot with KODAK DX4530 ZOOM DIGITAL CAMERA at 2008-08-06

a shop service manual will help out in the area of wiring diagrams as well. look into that.

Thats one hell of a write up but true none the less, from start to where I am now my 74 260 Z with a 383 stroker, 5 speed SBC has taken a better part of almost 2 years where at this moment its a running car where only cosmetics are left and sorting the bugs from replacing the stock diff mount to a solid and taller front tires for clearance since I replaced the springs for a set of dropped springs. I have built this car as a solid street machine hence the five speed for fun factor. only thing I have found is that its alot safer running drag radials on these cars due to the almost uncontrolable skate they perpetrate on street radials. Another factor that did not apply to me was the cost of putting together a car like this. I am very lucky to have had a great friend that has had several V8 Z's and has led me in the right direction in the form of finding a very rust free rolling chasis to all associated conversion parts, (which in itself was a treasure hunt of sorts for used parts) which cut cost down dramatically not to mention I already had a drivetrain available. I would tell anyone willing to venture into taking on a task of building a hybrid that it is totally possible to spend upwards of twenty thousand dollars altogether to realize a project like this and thats doing everything yourself. I myself consider my fortunate friendship to a good source of knowledgable help and parts that were available and this site. I dont mean to jack this thread just adding my .2 cents. As a proud Z owner alow me to post a pic of my car. By speed38374, shot with DSC-W55 at 2008-05-16 By speed38374, shot with DSC-W55 at 2008-06-12 By speed38374, shot with DSC-W55 at 2008-05-16

Wow! brought this thread back from the dead, anyway after a long hard year and a half with the great info from this great forum and the invaluable help and parts provided by bobby the greek (owner of the fastest V8 240Z street car in south florida back in the day) I have made this project a reality and I fired up the motor on friday open headers and tuned the timing where I can crack the secondaries without it breaking up. Only thing left is the fun stuff like the exhaust and interior. GOODTIMES:icon14:

I am within days of starting my 260z with my 383 SBC and I have a quick question? is there something like a torque shaft i can install from the bolt holes on my heads to the frame rails that will limit the engine from torquing too much? Something on the market that you guys know about that will tie up this condition???